In the Glass — 1996 Salon Cuvee ‘S’ Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut Review
It’s rare to have a prestigious Champagne with long aging potential, yet it’s another challenge to showcase the testimony of time AND the vibrancy as it was first harvested from the vineyard. This 1996 Salon achieved both. In some way, it changed my evaluation of what’s considered a great Champagne.
Though my friends who I shared the 1996 Salon bottle with were rather disappointed with its performance, feeling it being less expressive without the outburst brioche and nuttiness, I was rather enjoying it very much. While it did not present itself with the huge body and depth that a Selosse would, the freshness of the fruits balanced out those aging characteristics and pushed the wine to a next-level of finesse - It’s rare to have a prestigious Champagne with long aging potential, yet it’s another challenge to showcase the testimony of time AND the vibrancy as it was first harvested from the vineyard. This 1996 Salon achieved both. In some way, it changed my evaluation of what’s considered a great Champagne.
When my friend called me about spotting a 1996 Salon, I was right on 5th Ave and had to haul myself to a stop to look up the vintage and reviews for the wine right next to a trash can. No exaggeration, within 3 minutes, the trigger had been pulled with tasting date decided.
The last time I had the privilege to taste a Salon, one of the most prestigious Champagne House in France who only uses Chardonnay and produces in the best vintages, was its latest 2013 release. For me, it didn’t really live up to its reputation, being extremely young with high acidity and and almost non-existing developed notes. It was hard for me to finish the tasting pour in my glass if not for the Salon name (of course trying to get my bucks worth knowing its retail price).
Only until later did I learn that Salon is so particular with its production and vintage, which made it unique and high-in-demand. Founded in 1911 by Eugène-Aimé Salon, it only makes wine from 100% Chardonnay in order to prove that Pinot Noirs is not the only grape with potential. Moreover, Salon are made only in the best vintages — only 37 vintages has been released in the past century.
Normally, Salon is aged for 10–12 years before its release. However, in my opinion, it would take at least 20+ years for a powerful Champagne like Salon to reach its prime drinking window. The reason why this 1996 vintage was so unique was because the 96 vintage started with a hot and dry spring, went into summer with grapes reaching full ripeness while still maintaining that acidity required for aging. And right now, in 2024, it has been developing in cellar for 28 years and finally ready for its coming-of-age.
The wine appeared shiny gold. First 10 minutes, interestingly it smelled like my Yakult drink (a yogurt-based beverage), yeast, and slight soy sauce. The wine was very much closed-up carrying a bit acidity, so naturally we set it aside to let it slowly develop.
In about 90 minutes, aromas started to flow out from the glass. Though unlike being bready and filling the entire room like a Selosse, beneath its aromatic complexity, there was remark depth of characters. Upfront, there were Osmanthus, apricot, ripe apple and pear. With hints of honey, chestnut, and blossomed bright flowers, the wine presented perfect harmony and finesse, as well as the vibrancy and freshness that a Champagne should carry as a palate opener.
More of a summery / light-hearted fizz, sometimes people get too focused on ageability and developed characteristics that they forget to recognize how easily-drinkable it is for people to enjoy a glass or two.
The 1996 Salon manifests that to the core — elegantly balancing layers of crisp freshness with the roundness and depth induced by the secondary and tertiary aging flavors. If I may say, it introduced another world of how Champagne could perform after trying Selosse and refreshed my expectation. While before my narrow focus was only on aging-specific characteristics, now I’ve learned to taste the balance accompanied by vibrancy and freshness.
With a retail price around $1660, it’s hard to judge Salon’s performance without pre-established expectations. If you are looking for a good-quality Champagne that’s worth your buck, there’s no way to justify Salon with pure rationale. Nevertheless, I would encourage, even advocate, that you should pay for the premium — it is the uttermost joy to indulge on a bottle of Salon for its complexity, ageability, elegance, finesse, and freshness, all intertwined seamlessly and make a dance on your palate. You don’t get the tartness on your tongue and could easily appreciate its quality, perhaps as an afternoon-delicacy.
If you ever consider splurging for a bottle of Salon, always get one that’s 20+ years-old, look on winesearcher.com for an excellent vintage, and leave the price behind once you pop open that cork. Simply savor it and embrace the stimulations it brings to all your senses.
Nothing can be worth the price if you truly think about it, but some experiences you just couldn’t miss no matter what the price. ENJOY it for what it is ;)
Basic Profile
Varietal: 100% Chardonnay
Appellation: Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Champagne, FR
Classification: Grand Cru
Vintage: 1996 (Excellent)
Winemaker: Salon
Alcohol %: 12%
Score: 97
My Score: 6/7
Price: ~$1660 (750ml)
