In the Glass — 2009 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Review

Someone described Domaine Vogüé’s wines as “an iron fist wrapped in velvet gloves,” and I couldn’t find a better way to describe it. The harmony between the vibrancy of its fruits, aromatic blossoms, structured complexity, finesse, and spice is so intricate that it’s almost sacred.

The light to medium ruby color reflects off the glass, with aromas of rose and red fruits bursting out. I took a deep inhale and dove into the glass with my eyes closed, just like children would when they sniff hints of candies and want to focus all senses on the nose — how lovely and familiar this smelled! Bright strawberries and cherries were crawling out, extending and intertwining into notes of green vines and moss. Oak aging slowly transformed into subtle chocolate, leather, and dried plum. I was content with my choice from the brick-size wine list at Tribeca Grill, NYC.

In recent years, prices of red Burgundy have skyrocketed, especially from my favorite village of Chambolle-Musginy. As I’ve mentioned before, I am especially charmed by its feminine yet seductive allure, like a fresh rose blossoming and aging with elegance, then slowly developing a spiky character. However, as Domaine Roumier took the lead in price inflation, I could no longer casually enjoy a bottle. Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé thus became my next best alternative for a delicate yet complex Chambolle-Musigny.

Domaine Vogüé was actually one of the first premium Burgundy producers I was introduced to when I started my wine journey about 3 years ago. At the time, it was natural for me to connect it to Vogue, the fashion authority, suspecting whether that’s how the Domaine earned its elite status in Burgundy. Apparently, I was making wild guesses. Instead, its history could be traced back to the 15th century, but it wasn’t until the 20th century, when Comte Georges de Vogüé took over, that the estate gained prominence in producing exceptional wines. Of course, I didn’t know that much then, but I was very impressed by its delicate body on my tongue and the aromatic characteristics. Since then, I’ve imprinted its unique rooster logo on my mind.

Wines from Vogüé often express an extraordinary floral scent. Once uncorked, the blossoms impatiently escape the long-trapped bottle and permeate throughout the room. This is all thanks to the oak barrels that the wines are aged in. Out of the top three producers in Chambolle-Musigny (Roumier, Vogüé, Mugnier), interestingly, Domaine Vogüé adopts the lowest new-oak ratio in barrels in order to bring out the most natural and original flavors of the grapes.

One thing that was hard for me to miss was that in my previous review of Domaine Roumier, I discussed its focus on biodynamic practices and presenting the natural quality of the terroir through grapes. These are pretty much the same principles championed by the Vogüé estate, and a fun connection is that Christophe Roumier, the grandson of George Roumier, actually learned the intricacies of Burgundian winemaking from Domaine Vogüé, which owns some of the finest vineyard sites in the region. Domaine Vogüé’s historical heritage likely contributed to Christophe’s viticulture and winemaking styles, leading to Domaine Roumier’s prestige today.

After two hours of waiting (almost similar to growing your own plant but in an accelerated trial), its initial simplicity in the body was gone, and the wine finally shed its youth. It began to reveal true grace and elegance. Beneath the vibrant red fruits and floralness, the roses have shown their thorns and blended themselves more thoroughly with the wine, dyeing it deep rouge. The wine has developed depth now, with complex layers and built-up structure behind the initial fresh hit. Someone described Domaine Vogüé’s wines as “an iron fist wrapped in velvet gloves,” and I couldn’t find a better way to describe it. The harmony between the vibrancy of its fruits, aromatic blossoms, structured complexity, finesse, and spice is so intricate that it’s almost sacred.

As I got slowly intoxicated by this wine (both metaphorically and physically), it got me thinking about tasting Vogüé 3 years ago. With whatever flavor notes and structured tasting I am able to analyze now, have the wines really changed that much when I drink them? Are all those tools helping me to capture more nuances that I missed before? Have they really elevated my satisfaction and sensory experiences? The answer is, in some negligible ways, yes, but the true happiness that I can always rely on is when I taste a delicious wine, with lovely people, and engage in enjoyable conversations.

Domaine Vogüé’s wines are known for their longevity and ability to age gracefully. They take an extremely long time to open up, especially the younger vintages, and therefore patience is a must when trying to savor wines from this producer. If the situation allows, do select a vintage older than 2010, since for the younger bottles, decanting for over 3 or 4 hours would be necessary.

Basic Profile

Varietal: Red— Pinot Noir

Appellation: Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru, FR

Classification: 1er Cru

Vintage: 2009 (Excellent) — ready to drink, will keep

Winemaker: François Millet

Alcohol %: 13%

Score: 92

My Score: 6/7

Price: ~$798 (750ml)