A Trip to Naoshima/Teshima
by Sam Brustad
Whether travelling by train, plane, bus, or car — this pilgrimage is a must for any art lover.
Nestled in the Seto Inland Sea, a ferry ride away from the mainland, you will find the islands Naoshima and Teshima. Here, Japan’s most celebrated creatives have decorated these islands with their work. Polka-dotted pumpkins and minimalist concrete art spaces stand in between rice paddies and olive orchards. The overall effect of this juxtaposition is breathtaking. It’s a fantastic place for reflection and to escape the hustle and bustle of the city.
I have been lucky enough to visit these islands three times now, with each trip offering its own collection of memories. Forming brilliant markers of different chapters in my life, and the friends who have graced me with their presence. I’m not sure what keeps drawing me back? I guess, as a child of New Zealand sheep farmers, I find the pace of ‘inaka’ life here reminiscent of a simpler time in my life.
A city gallery can be an oasis in a bustling metropolis. Diametrically opposed to its surroundings, a respite from busy streets. On the other hand, these islands encourage a more fluid view of what constitutes ‘gallery’ space. The feelings they arouse do not dissipate as you step out of the door. In fact, many spaces are not so easily defined. For example, the Naoshima Art House Project encourages visitors to wander around the little township of Ishibacho. This allows you to enjoy various artists’ creations from formerly abandoned houses. The element of orienteering needed to properly enjoy these exhibitions draws you closer to the island rather than making it feel as if it exists as a separate entity.
My favourite gallery, the Teshima Art Museum, is another example of this. By taking advantage of natural elements of water, light, and wind, artist Rei Naito and architect Ryue Nishizawa are able to transform this simple concrete structure into something magical. This type of engagement with the islands themselves make the whole experience surreal.
As logistics coordinator for 美, I feel compelled to share these memories, but also to provide future tourists with tips to better enjoy their journey. With entry into the famous Chichu Art Museum costing a whopping 2,060 yen it’s best to do some research beforehand. I hope that this post will give you some tangible steps on how to make the most out of your trip.
Where to stay?
The islands themselves have every option from AirBnBs and hostels, to Mongolian Yurts or the very ooh la la Bennesee House. Although staying as Bennesse has the added benefit of getting you into many museums for free, as well as a handy shuttle service around the island for guests.
However, the best points of access for all of these islands are from Takamatsu (in Shikoku) and Okayama (Honshu). Ferries leave from here frequently. There are many islands to explore (Shodoshima, Inujima, and others), so these cities offer great access to the whole of the inland sea. There are also added benefits besides location, accomodation in these cities is far cheaper, and they have many charming things to explore in themselves. Be sure to try the famous Sanuki udon of Kagawa, or visit Okayama’s famous castle.
Getting there?
Travelling from major centres (Tokyo/ Osaka), there is a range of options:
Bus, by far the cheapest option, night buses will allow you to arrive in Okayama early in the morning and also help save on a night’s accommodation. Check out some options:
Train, a more expensive option for sure. But worth it if you time is limited or if you have a JR rail pass. You can take a shinkansen to Okayama, or you could check out the Sunrise Setō from Tokyo to Takamatsu.
Leaving every night from 22:00, and arriving at 7:30 in Takamatsu the next morning. A JR pass allows you to ride in the cheapest ‘nobinobi seat’ for free. You get a small space to sleep (similar to a capsule hotel). Or you can rent a private room for an additional cost (about 20,000 yen one way — without a rail pass). Be careful though, this overnight train is very popular so make sure to book in advance! Although, if you don’t have a rail pass and you stay in a JR hotel you can often get a discounted set ticket.
Plane, certainly a good option if travelling from Tokyo. There are LLCs with regular flights to Okayama, be sure to check out any deals! If speed and efficiency are you priority then this is probably the best option.
Car, certainly a much longer process, but (speaking from personal experience) it’s the most enjoyable option when travelling with a group of friends. Plus, having a car on Naoshima is a great way to get around the island without having to rent a bicycle or take a bus. Be wary of the cost of Japanese motorways though, a one-way trip will cost around 10,000 yen. This option should only be used by big groups who can split the price to make the cost worth it.
What to do on the islands?
There are many options for tourists to while away their time on these islands, and not just at museums. If you’re interested in hiking, there are many spectacular views enjoy, or you can visit local fruit farms, go swimming in the sea, or visit the famous onsen, ‘I Love Yu’.
My top picks:
Naoshima
- Art House Project, Chichu, and Lee Ufan Art Museums.
- To eat; Aisunao
- Konichiwa
Teshima
- Hire a bike and just get to it, there is so much to explore! But be sure to get a bike with an electric motor, the hills will kill you.
- Teshima Art Museum, perhaps the most surreal place I have ever visited
- Shima Kitchen, a restaurant specialising in local delicacies using ingredients sourced from the region.
Sam Brustad is one of the founding members of Bi, who has always supported our projects from a technical, practical aspect. He is an irreplaceable life force of our group.
