S U R F I N G

Surfing is rad.

Introduced to me at around 9, it wasn’t until I was 11 that I took it up. Riding switch on my first wave that I managed to get to me feet — although at that point in time I didn’t realise I was ‘switch’, I just got up to my feet..

I still remember that wave clear as day. I was riding an orange ‘Sky’ surfboard, it had blue and purple stripes down the rail and was a thruster (3 fins). All wax. I rolled into it — it was a fat and slow wave — slowly got to my feet and trimmed the absolute shit out of that wave until it died and I was left standing on the board trying to maintain my balance…

That feeling of gliding across the ocean is something that has stuck with me since, it’s taken me around the world, it’s created lasting friendships and in some instances helped shaped who I am today.

To some surfing is a sport. To me, it’s an activity, a relaxant, a form of meditation, a way to engage socially but more then anything it’s something that makes me, me. Which is kind of hard to explain, but it’s that very reason that makes me grateful for it.

It balances me, makes me smile and all sorts of other cliche things I could write. But the essence is, I’m so eternally grateful for surfing that I’ll never get over it, past it, not want it. It’s a part of me.

Surfing is rad.