2. Once Upon a Runway
I asked a random selection of friends “What is a fashion show?” and crafted a less than 💯 definition…
Fashion shows consist of beautiful giants in designer clothing (with or without wings) strutting up and down a runway in uncomfortable shoes.
Even Google’s response to “What is a fashion show?” is less than stellar, composed primarily of Victoria’s Secret propaganda 😰.
I would define the runway as a stage for storytelling. The first look acts as the introduction and sets the tone for the rest of the show. Take the first look of Alexander Wang’s Fall 2014 show for example…
You’ll see the same silhouettes appear again-and-again in the remainder of the collection. The first look hints at what is to come without giving away the plot. The following photos are in chronological order, so take note of how the looks build in complexity and color.
Now, brace yourself, and watch and listen to the first few minutes of his show.
😱 I hope you felt stressed out. I was definitely biting my nails the entire time. As you can see, the still snapshot of Wang’s first look did not capture the seizure-inducing light show or the static noise soundtrack, which goes to show how the atmosphere and movement of fashion shows are as important as the clothing themselves.
On the opposite side of the spectrum, we have designers like Kate and Laura Mulleavy who head the brand Rodarte. Similar to Wang, they use flashing lights and music as the prelude to the first look. However, the tone they set is completely different. Just watch and listen to the first minute.
Ok, enough about setting the scene, let’s jump back to the storytelling aspect of the runway. In comparison to the previous designers, Alexander McQueen took storytelling to a completely different level. In McQueen’s Spring 2001 show titled VOSS, he designed a world where models were trapped in a cubed insane asylum encompassed by 2-way mirrors. Before the show started, the audience was forced to watch their own reflections for an hour.
In McQueen’s words, “the idea was to turn people’s faces on themselves. I wanted to turn it around and make them think, am I actually as good as what I’m looking at?” His work frequently questioned the conventional definition of beauty.
Watch a lil bit of this to get a sense of the chaotic world McQueen created. The models sported hospital-like bandages around their heads and wandered without any clear direction.
McQueen’s criticism of beauty also trickles into specific works throughout the show. The bodice of this dress is made from lab specimen slides dyed red in order to give the idea of blood lying underneath. McQueen explains that “there’s blood beneath every layer of skin.”
The dress below is crafted from razor-clam shells McQueen found on a beach. McQueen was frequently inspired by nature and created garments from unconventional materials. In his words, “The shells had outlived their usefulness on the beach, so we put them to another use on a dress. Then Erin [O’Conner] came out and trashed the dress, so their usefulness was over once again. Kind of like fashion, really.”
The finale of this show is the most controversial. Just a warning 🚨 that this clip is a little jarring, and might be a little nsfw.
You can interpret the finale as you wish, but McQueen describes his intentions:
“These beautiful models were walking around in the room, and then suddenly this woman who wouldn’t be considered beautiful was revealed. It was about trying to trap something that wasn’t conventionally beautiful to show that beauty comes from within.”
The important thing to remember is that all fashion designers have unique styles of presentation. The runway isn’t limited to a single-lane track. Fashion shows should make you think about more than just the clothing. I think Raf Simons says it best:
“If I see a fashion show with literal influences, it doesn’t make me think any more. It doesn’t make me dream.”
That’s all 💁.
Keep an eye out for the Force ☄ next week 😉.
