“The Philippines is defined by its emerald rice fields, teeming megacities, graffiti-splashed jeepneys, smouldering volcanoes, bug-eyed tarsiers, fuzzy water buffalo and smiling, happy-go-lucky people.” (Lonely Planet)
When googling for paradise my friends and I found a picture of the Big Lagoon, part of El Nido island hopping tour A. That marvellous image of limestone escarpments rising from pristine water was what first draw our attention towards The Philippines. And the rest of the research included so many irresistible natural wonders, such as dive spots in coral reefs and aquamarine water beaches on coastal areas and hiking trails and remote villages in the country, delicious food and the funniest welcoming people, they have a great sense of humour and love to sing.
A decision was made: Backpacking in the Philippines!
Where are The Philippines?
“The Philippines officially the Republic of the Philippines (Filipino: Republika ng Pilipinas) is a unitary sovereign and archipelagic country in Southeast Asia. Situated in the western Pacific Ocean, it consists of about 7,641 islands…”
We planned visiting 3 islands for this holidays given that we only had 10 days: Luzón, Palawan and Cebu. All provided different experiences I will be sharing next.
National language is Tagalog alongside with English.
Currency: Peso Filipino (PHP) 1 EUR =63,92 PHP / 1 USD =52,03 PHP / 1 GBP =73,29 PHP. Regarding money exchange you will get a better deal just withdrawing at any airport or town ATM: Manila´s Airport, Cebu´s Airport, El Nido and Moalboal town.
Packing:
I travelled ultralight with a 5 kg backpack with inside zipper, including the most important items for this holiday: essential medicines and hygiene products, Summer clothing and snorkel equipment. Purchased a snorkel glass and breathing tube in London instead of in the Philippines as was I wanted to try them on to make sure it was the right size for my face and water would not get inside while swimming, this is because some equipment you will find for sale at the beach shops are plastified and you will not be able to check if they fit your face. Got the best surf shoes (swim socks) to make sure they would kept me from getting calluses or lacerations from rocks or corals on beaches.
The plastic bum bag was very useful for beach hikes and boat trips. This is how I managed to take my Huawei phone with me at all times and took the pictures I will show you next. Left the big Canon camera safe from water at home.
Remember not to bring any seeds in or out the country.
Our journey began with a flight from London to Manila with Air China, and that was our first stop:
Stop #1 Manila
Manila is Philippines capital city, located in Luzon, the largest and most populous island in the Philippines. If you have some time here, visiting Intramuros historic town and exploring the architecture of the Spanish colonial era is a must.
Manila Cathedral
San Agustin Church
Calle Real del Palacio
Plazuela de Santa Isabel
Fort Santiago
Palacio Del Gobernador
Manila City
We found heavy traffic on the way, especially as we got closer to the city skyscrapers, bare this in mind if you are getting around.
Accommodation in Manila
Jorivim Aiport Taxi & Apartelle is located in Manila, near Manila Ninoy Aquino International Airport (MNL) offering shuttle services. Guests can enjoy the on-site restaurant. Free private parking is available on site.
Their amazing staff helped us sort a return taxi to Intramuros so that we could walk around the historic town and could come back on time for the transfer out service to the airport for stop number 2: Palawan Island.
Stop #2: Palawan!
One hour and ten minutes flight from Manila to Puerto Princesa Airport, which is 88 km from Port Barton, our next destination
2.1. Port Barton Town and Beach
Port Barton is a village on the north-west coast of the island of Palawan about 23km north-west of Roxas.
Port Barton is a rural beachside little village in the rainforest. I am glad we stopped here even if it was for only one night on our way to El Nido. My advice is that you stay here for more nights than we did and book the same tours you can get in El Nido, we found out here is cheaper and a much quieter experience.
Accommodation in Port Barton
Kiwi Lodge offers double bed bungalows with shower toilets nested within private gardens, a peaceful accommodation in Port Barton.
2.2. El Nido
El Nido is a coastal settlement and major tourist destination on the Philippines island of Palawan. El Nido comprises 45 islands and islets, and four days will only be enough for you to relax and get a taste of it.
El Nido Town and Bacuit Bay
El Nido Tour A
Most famous Island Hopping Tour in El Nido. The departure of Tour A is either from the El Nido Pier Harbor or from the El Nido Port Authority, in both case around 9am. We will wait for you there and then board on the boat to start the journey. During the day, you will kayak to beautiful lagoons, find beaches and snorkeling spots where you can swim and admire the corals, the fauna.
By night, enjoy having piñacoladas with a sea view and chilled atmosphere at Pukka Bar, Art Café or Outpost Beach Hostel.
Accommodation in El Nido
Rosanna’s Pension is a Beach Resort in El Nido with friendly staff, beachfront view in some of their rooms and island tours.
Goodbye Palawan!
3rd stop: Cebu Island
Landing in Cebu and van to Moalboal
“Cebu City is a first class highly urbanized city in the island province of Cebu in Central Visayas, Philippines. Though the seat of government and capital for the province. According to the 2015 census, it has a population of 922,611.”
Moalboal
Moalboal is a small town on the South-West side of Cebu Island, 2 hours away from Cebu City. It is mostly used as an entry point to Panagsama Beach, a turtle bay resort with restaurants, bars and many dive schools.
We were lucky to snorkel in one of the best coral reefs of the world. Just a couple of whip kicks from the shore we were surprised by sardine run, sea turtles and, when looking down, colorful coral ecosystem: spiky sea urchins, algae, sponges, anemones, many fish species from clownfish, many different types of surgeonfish, blue starfish, bottom dwellers like the armed bullhead, razorfish, jellyfish, and bluespotted cornetfish.
Kawasan Falls
The Kawasan waterfalls (a three step waterfall) is located in the rain forest approximately 20 km south of Moalboal.
We booked a guided canyoneering tour that starts in the morning, above the waterfalls, and you make your way down wading along the river, swimming through deeper sections and jumping down waterfalls, one of them is if 15 m high. Takes about one day, around PHP 2,500 per person.
Undoubtedly my favourite day in Cebu Island!
By night, Chili Bar is one of the liveliest places in Moalboal, apart from a wide variety of drinks, they offer billiards and nice sunset views.
Accommodation in Moalboal
Roos Guesthouse is a Bed & Breakfast located 800 m. from the beach. Our kind hosts Werner and Hanna have recently opened the guesthouse, March the 3rd of 2018. Featuring 5 Rooms with a double-bed, and 1 Room for 3 persons with a bunk bed with under 2 person mattress and above 1 person mattress. All Rooms have a separate Bathroom, with Toilet and a Shower. Friendly staff and great breakfast!
Oslob
Oslob is a small village south of Cebu City, near the southern tip of Cebu Island. Architecture, history and adventure…
Oslob has started blossoming into a tourist stop due to whale sharks that swim close to the coast in Tan-awan, which is 10 km away. Tourists can respectfully snorkel and dive with them or just watch from the outrigger canoes while fishermen are feeding them. Having the opportunity to be taken eye to eye with such unique creatures was a great experience.
The tour is 8:30- 11:00 time slot. PHP 1200 for a snorkel and swim. Price includes gears, instructors who will paddle you into the sea. Session time is limited to 30 minutes. Before the activity, you are handed with safety and legal instructions provided in writing. And can leave your backpack at the lockers. There are shower facilities in case you need. And a nice restaurant around the corner.
Road to back to Cebu Airport
Exploring the island from the bus glass window
Check this video of the Top Islands and beaches I found on youtube.
Goodbye Philippines, I will be back one day!
Take a walk with a turtle. And behold the world in pause.
- Bruce Feiler
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