Sailing II Dalmatian Coast in Croatia: Biograd, Kornati & Telascica (with Split, Trogir, Primosten, Sibenik and Krka Waterfalls)
In this sailing adventure, we explore first Split and Trogir before renting a sailboat in Biograd and sailing the Zadar Coast and Archipelago, first to Zut Bay, Kornati National Park and Telašćica Nature Park in Du Otok (big island), Veli Izi, Veli Rat, Zadar, and back to Biograd. After the sailing trip, we have some time to visit the beach and city of Sibenik, swim in the Krka National Park Skrandinski Buk, and wind down at Primosten’s beach.
For this first-time sailing in Croatia, we wanted to combine the most popular sightseeing with sailing in natural parks.
Jump to the second time in Croatia here.
Map of places visited in Croatia
If you are not into sailing or want to go straight to one of these places, Jadrolinija offers ferries to many of them.
Sailing Itinerary: Biograd — Zut Bay — Kornati — Telascica Park — Veli Izi — Veli Rat — Zadar — Biograd
Why Croatia?
- Gracious coast with pebble beaches and crystal-clear water
- Famous nautical destination: budget and beginners friendly
- History of good weather in Summer
- Short flight if you live in Europe
- Rich and varied food
- People with a strong attitude and hospitality
- Well-preserved heritage: nature and culture, or as their slogan says:
“The Mediterranean as it once was”
According to Nautical Tourism Croatia, the best sailing seasons in Croatia are late spring and early autumn, temperatures are milder, the sea is peaceful, and the winds are nicer. But we decided to go in August, with the scorching Adriatic Summer heat. Only a little wind, but enough to practise safely, as it was our first time sailing by ourselves with friends. The sea was so quiet that many times we had to use the engine to move around.
Split
Our trip began on Thursday we flew to Split with Croatian Airlines and dedicated Friday to visiting Split, including the Diocletian Palace, with its famous statues, labyrinthine streets and hiking up to the viewpoint.
From Sunday, 1 January 2023, the euro will replace the kuna as the currency of Croatia, at a conversion rate of 1 euro for 7.53450 Croatian kuna.
Split never disappoints
Trogir
Later that day we took a bus to Trogir island town and arrived on time to watch the sunset from the beach and have delicious food in the village.
On Saturday we took a bus to Biograd, where we met the rest of our friends and checked in at Biograd Marina, sailboat briefing with our Skippers.
Trogir is a smaller version of Split offers, and many visitors come here on a day trip or stay for a quieter holiday.
Suggestions for dinner: start with a glass of Rakija or white wine, fresh vegetables or salads, black risotto, seafood or grilled fish (seabass, seabream, and red snapper) or Cevapcici (minced meat) and fritule for desert
Bus to Biograd
Travelling by bus is very easy and affordable in Croatia
On the way to Zut Bay
For this first time sailing in Croatia (there will be more) we decided on the following itinerary, choosing the most famous stops for sail trips:
Biograd — Zut Bay — Kornati — Telascica Park — Veli Izi — Veli Rat — Zadar — Biograd
On Sunday we left the harbour of Biograd and sailed to Zut Bay.
Zut Bay
From this little island in the bay, we watched the sunset and the Kornati Islands for the first time, the east side of it is greener than what we would find in the west the next day. Only a few boats stay in this silent bay. It is still one of my favourite stops. Here we swam with fluorescent Plankton at night, next to what we called the island of rabbits and flying sardines, we could enjoy all the stars in the dark falling asleep to the soft swing of the boat.
Kornati Islands
On Monday we left Zut Bay and sailed through the Kornati islands Park, here you must pay for entrance. There are minimal options for restaurants and a bit pricy, so we recommend you cook your own food.
To be honest, we all liked more the east green side, than the west, where the islands are very dry and not very impressive.
Telascica Park
On Tuesday, we sailed to Telascica Park, an island with an inner lake called Salt Lake Mir, with unique water properties. Later that day, we went to Veli Izi where we anchored in the harbour to sleep.
Salt Lake Mir
On the way to Veli Izi, we finally got to experience stormy winds chasing after us and blowing us until we arrived safely in Veli Izi
Veli Izi
During our sailing trip around the bay of Zadar, we were sad not to see too many fishes or octopuses around the bays and thought it was strange. Then we heard from locals that fishes are usually hard to see, not because of the water's colour, but because wild fish disappeared from the area due to past intensive fishing with dynamite, which is now forbidden in the EU. The west coasts facing Italy have recovered better. And several fish farms provide food for all the restaurants in the bay.
Veli Izi is a beautiful small village and a couple of restaurants.
Veli Rat
On Wednesday we sailed up to Veli Rat, Dugi Otok (island) this was one of the places we liked the most, it has a big bay where you can anchor and then approach the coast with your dinghy boat, after a short hike you reach Veli Rat lighthouse, camping and restaurant. It is a wonderful place to relax, eat and watch the sunset.
The next day, you can snorkel with wild fish around the Sunken ship located near the island. Or visit Sakarun Beach.
Zadar
On Thursday we sailed to Zadar, the former capital of Dalmatia, which is a big city, with picturesque stone facades and lots of cafés, restaurants, museums, the Sea Organ, street performances and souvenirs.
The Harbour of Zadar is big and modern, with gas stations and restaurants nearby.
Sailing boat gadgets and equipment
Biograd
On Friday we were back in Biograd, the Harbour where we rented the sailboat and our last stop.
During our last days in Croatia, we visited Sibenik, Krka Skrandinski Buk Waterfalls and Primosten.
Krka National Park
This National Park is located in the Krka River, 7 km from the sea and with 7 waterfalls. Here you can walk along the trails and swim in the river with views of the waterfalls.
Sibenik
This city has a beautiful old town and many things to visit in and out, like the Krka Waterfalls.
Primosten
This pretty small village is located south of Sibenik and north of Trogir, where we rented a flat to have some days of rest before flying back home. This village has a beautiful shape of two rounded peninsulas, one with the old town and the other with parks and camping and a beach all along the coast. It is peaceful enough to relax and enjoy the sea, but with enough restaurants and things to do for a couple of days. I really like Primosten.
Souvenirs
- olive oil and lavender cosmetics
- stone crafts
- handmade jewellery
- spices: sweet and spicy paprika powder
- wine and balsamic
Break the routine and reconnect to what really matters:
“Philip got lost in the details and could not in any way breathe some deeper meaning into those details around him.”
― Miroslav Krleža, The Return of Philip Latinowicz (Famous Yugoslav and Croatian Author)
Hvala Croatia!
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