Lahore’s Timeless Tradition
Lahore is a warm, vibrant city with the biggest of hearts and appetite! Known often as the food capital of Pakistan, what is Lahore if not a tall, cold glass of lassi under the scorching sun? What is Lahore if not the craving that follows the whiff of a smokey kebab grill? What is Lahore if not the crunch of savoury street snacks one always has enough time to grab on even the busiest, most off-putting of days? Well, Lahore is after all, amongst much else, the bearer of a wholesome tradition of food.
This tradition predates the modern-day city and finds strong roots in the illustrious Mughal era. The heart of the empire, Lahore was always the exotic city of hopelessly hopeful romance, culture, chaos and splendour all at once. It is not surprising that the biggest spice market of Asia is in fact in Lahore right around the Delhi Gate! The overwhelming footprint of the magnificent Mughal legacy is unmissable as you drive past the tree shaded downtown roads of what is now known as ‘Old’ Lahore by elitist millennials or Androon Shehr (inner city) by the average desi Lahori - both titles only with gushing affection for the flawed but beloved city.
The Androon Shehr which is preserved under the local Walled City Authority is home to lush gardens and splendid architecture most of which are inherited from the times of the Mughal rule. Be it a frolic at the Shalimar Gardens, a tour of the Shahi Hamam or a stop at Wazir Khan to recolour your spirit, these experiences are all incomplete without enjoying at least some of the many local food delicacies scattered all around this part of the city.
Several localities and junctions have earned fame solely on account of one food joint or another. Lakshmi Chowk, a historical intersection between staple downtown roads like McLeod, Abbott and Nisbat roads, has been one of the oldest food hubs of the city. Lakshmi Chowk is hyped with non-stop activity around the clock and perhaps for this reason, has become home to food spots that are sacred for Lahoris. Paye for breakfast, Benazir Samosa for a snack or Butt Karahi for dinner, all this and much more is part of the never ending food fest at Lakshmi Chowk! Moving farther out, while one finds the iconic Amritsari Hareesa at Nisbat Road, there is Goonga’s comforting chai at Temple Road and this pattern repeated itself only with a greater variety of foods and recipes.
Many mock the tendency of the people of Lahore to schedule their daily lives around food. Some claim it is only reflective of a supposed lack of ‘productive, leisure activities.’ While I can’t deny the former, I can quickly dismiss the latter statement. The tradition of hopeless obsession with food has stood the test of many a bowling and laser tag arenas, spoken word cafes and art galleries competing for supremacy and while a Lahori doesn’t mind being productive, doing it without running on chai and chips isn’t part of the deal!
