AMBER — the golden triangle


  • // a fossilised resin, typically yellowish in colour.
  • // a rich honey-yellow color
  • // a perfume accord [blend of fragrance notes] typically oriental in style

So to recap… Amber is a fossilised stone, a colour, and in perfumery, a composition made by combining several warm, sweet wood and resin notes.

The ‘amber’ accord as an olfactory concept arose late in the 19th century when the vanillin compound was first synthesised and blended with labdanum (note at Abel we use a naturally derived vanillin only). The resulting sensual, elegant fragrances were an immediate hit and have stayed more or less in vogue ever since. Even to this day, the most classical Amber accords are a combination of vanilla and labdanum. Trends and audience (Amber’s are popular for both men and women) tend to dictate whether the combination heads towards sweeter floral orientals, or darker leathery Amber’s.

A nod to the ambers of Art Deco Paris, Abel’s cobalt amber is the modern hedonist’s delight (we used the golden triangle reference for good reason). All the hallmarks of a traditional amber — vanillin, labdanum, sandalwood, patchouli…. With an Abel modernisation — pink pepper and juniper berry brighten the top, and cacao and tonka add a gourmand heart.

Working with natural ingredients is ever-gratifying, and we are always braced for seasonal nuance and change. However we were blown away blending our latest batch of cobalt amber to discover it’s literally “amber” in colour (in comparison to previous blends that were vodka-like in hue).

“We were blown away blending our latest batch of cobalt amber to discover it’s literally “amber” in colour.”

With only the minutest of changes to the blend, we’re putting it down to this mysterious queen of a fragrance wanting to show her true colours.

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