Glasgow: Scotland’s Second City comes Out Of the Shadows.
Scotland truly has it all, well except for reliable sunshine, but that is also part of the appeal! Most people visiting Scotland will fly into Edinburgh and spend a few days in the capitol before dashing out to explore a slice of the Highlands, normally heading either to Loch Ness or the Isle of Skye.
I am here to convince you that Scotland’s biggest city, Glasgow, is not to be overlooked. Sure, it doesn’t have an Arthur’s Seat or an imposing Castle but it more than makes up for this in other ways which I will describe…
Glasgow has a shady past. It used to be notorious for gangs, organized crime, and pollution. Nowadays it is a relatively safe place to visit if you employ common sense. Glaswegians are rightfully proud of their up and coming city.
One of the city’s most striking features is that it is designed on a grid system similar to North American cities. This has led to it being used as a film set on multiple occasions, perhaps most notably for the Fast and the Furious films.
A walk around Glasgow is a walk through history. The Clyde is largely devoid of ships nowadays but back in the 17th and 18th centuries Glasgow and nearby Port Glasgow were a hubbub of activity. The main imports were tobacco, sugar cotton, and manufactured goods. Many of the beautiful buildings in the city center and beyond have a colonial legacy which is only now beginning to be recognized by institutions that have benefited from this money — such as the University of Glasgow. I would recommend walking from the city center to Spiers Wharf which is an area at the end of a system of canals linking Edinburgh and Glasgow with views over the city center. The canal system allowed access to extensive coal and iron-ore mines in Lanarkshire.
The relative wealth of Glasgow’s past was replaced by a widespread decline in the 20th century as heavy industry was transferred to other parts of the World. However, since the 1980s Glasgow has been making a comeback and reshaping its identity.
If you wish to explore the legacy of Glasgow’s past I would recommend one day focussing on the West End and another in the East End.
Day 1 (West End): After an early morning stroll around the city center, you could visit The Tenement House and see how people used to live in the early 20th century. Tenement houses are synonymous with Glasgow; so, it is interesting to get a glimpse into the inside of one of them. From there you should head towards Kelvingrove Park. As you leave the city center the buildings become ever more historic and wealthy-looking. Upon entering the center of the park two majestic structures will come into view. These are the University of Glasgow Main building which houses the Hunterian Museum and the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. It is worthwhile spending some time exploring both sites.
I would then recommend strolling down Ashton lane with its distinctive cobbles and cute buildings housing a variety of restaurants and bars. It is the perfect place to stop for a coffee or a bite to eat. The afternoon could be spent wandering around the nearby Glasgow Botanical Gardens which house a huge variety of flora including prehistoric-looking ferns and carnivorous plants. If you don’t quite have the energy to make it back to the city center by foot, then no worries! There is a subway in Glasgow. In fact, Glasgow is the only other city other than London in the UK with a subway system, there are only two lines which circle the key city center sites. You can get a train back from Hillhead station on Byres road to either Buchannan street or St Enoch station in the city center.
Day 2 (East End): The next day I would recommend exploring parts of the eastern side of the city. You should walk to Glasgow Cathedral and stroll at a leisurely pace around the necropolis situated just behind it. In my opinion, the Glasgow Necropolis is the second most interesting cemetery in Europe after the Pere Lachaise in Paris. From here you can pick up the Glasgow Mural Trail. The graffiti art showcases key themes of Glasgow life and illustrates how its residents relate both with each other and the wider world.
The more adventurous among you could head for The Barras Market which takes place on the weekend — it is a spectacle of Glaswegian life. It is probably best to visit The Barras in the late morning or around midday. The market sells a variety of antiques, collectibles, clothes, and food. There are outside stalls as well as covered halls where you can take shelter should the weather be unfavorable. If you do decide to visit The Barras then check out the Lock Fyne Shellfish café and try some whelks. Not far from The Barras is The People’s Palace in Glasgow Green park. It is a free museum which gives a unique insight into how people used to live in the past.
Aside from these suggestions, I would insist that if you do plan to spend a weekend in Glasgow then you get out there and get talking to people. Go to some of the heritage pubs in the city center and have a couple of pints. You might be surprised that the friendly locals are more than happy to have a chat and will probably invite you out for the night with their friends — oh aye! By talking people, you will discover that despite the history and stunning architecture what really makes Glasgow are its people and their gritty sense of humor. The passage of time and the endless grey skies of this part of the World have given Glaswegians a unique character that you won’t find in other parts of the UK.
Sure, I will admit that parts of Glasgow are not as pretty as Edinburgh, it is not always as “cultured” but what you can find here is far more important. You will find yourself immersed in a story describing the power of people, human resilience and creativity.
