Solo-ing Central Europe- Notes
The plan was to backpack Europe with a group of friends right after college. I stuck to the plan… just three years late and no friends. I stayed in AirBnB’s and did not go out at night. I travel like a fifty year old cat lady.
After 17 days in Germany, Austria, Hungary and Czech Republic, here are my scatter brained notes! TL;DR: I had a blast.
Day 1: Left LAX at 10:30 pm, arrived in Prague 12:25 am the next day. Yep. I spent 26 hours in a plane/at an airport. Yay I love vacation!
Day 2: Land in Prague post-midnight. I’m supposed to be in Berlin but the train doesn’t start up until 4:30 am. I have 3.5 hours to kill. Nothing good comes from exploring a new city between midnight to 4 am but hey — YOLO! Thank god for two kindly backpackers from Hawaii (SO to Kaoru & Taylor). Though offered some lovely cocaine from a lovely lady that entrapped me in a bathroom stall, and thoroughly entertained by a 45 minute intellectual debate on whether Gehry’s Dancing House was worth discussion (irony) by my newfound friends, I had to tear myself away and hop onto my train to Berlin. BRB Prague!
Day 3: Arrive in Berlin around 9:30 am. By now, I have been sleep deprived for over 36 hours. Instead of sleeping, I visit the Reichstag Building (Parliament) and other historical sites nearby. Realize I haven’t really eaten in over 40 hours, optimistically pick up some bimbimbap to go. Note to self- don’t eat bimbimbap in Berlin.
Day 4: Drag myself out of bed and get breakfast. Here’s to coffee #1 out of the ensuing 592759! Love all the fresh fruit. Should’ve gotten more because none of the following cities were nearly as healthy.
Went to the Berlin Wall and Jewish Museum. Wandered around some more and then went home to sleep.
Day 5: Last few hours in Berlin which means I should make it count! Which for me means coffee and reading. Instead, met a local named Bertram with a penchant for precious stones who showed me around before boarding my train to Munich. Thank you for ordering food and counting money for me!
Price: $$$
Food: ***
Conclusion: I would like to live here one day.
Days 6–8: Hello Munich! And thank you Zach for letting me crash your hotel and saving me money. Unfortunately, it rained everyday I was in Munich but I managed to do five main things: 1) drag Zach to multiple cathedrals; 2) attend Frulingsfest (Spring version of Oktoberfest); 3) explore Marienplatz; 4) go to Nymphenburg Palace; 5) attend a birthday party for someone I do not know. I can officially confirm that I do not enjoy German food.
Price: $$$
Food: *
Conclusion: Once was enough though Marienplatz is lovely!
Days 9–11: Arrive in Vienna late in the evening. Spent all day on the train. Sad. Attempted to wake up early. Failed. Visited a few more cathedrals and the Schönbrunn Palace and saw a piano concert at the beautiful State Opera House. Spent the next few days getting lost and realizing that Vienna is geared for tourism. There is a very clear divide between private (local) and public (touristy) areas.
Price: $$$
Food: **
Conclusion: Put aside your pride and be a tourist here.
Days 12–15: I was really excited for Budapest. Keyword: was. For two reasons. 1) Budapest is known as the “City of Baths” such as the famous Széchenyi Thermal Bath House which opened in 1913 and is still going strong 103 years later! Unfortunately, Aunt Flo decided to pay a surprise visit the day I arrived in Budapest. 2) Budapest is not a solo-girl friendly city. In the least. I don’t think I’ve ever lost my temper and flipped so many people off consecutively before. After a few frogs, I found a wonderful prince in Istvan who gave me a list of places to see and showed me their version of the Bellagio Fountains in Margitsziget which was definitely a highlight.
Price: $
Food: ***
Conclusion: I need to come back, but with a group! Maybe next summer so I can take advantage of the baths and ponds.
Days 15–17: Last stop — Prague! Told you I’d be back. This time, no late night wanderings. This is a city I will definitely be re-re-visiting. It’s such a romantic city. Saw a playful opera with music by Mozart. Stopped by the Kafka museum to pay respects to one of my least favorite high school required reading authors.
Price: $$
Food: ****
Conclusion: Best food out of the five cities. I’d love to spend more time here. I love the laid back romantic feel of the city. Note to self: remember to ask for tap water.
Random notes jotted throughout the trip:
1.Don’t buy socks from h&m. They don’t last even a wear.
2. Berlin is kinda awesome, but you can skip Munich.
3. Be a tourist in Vienna, no way around it
4. Bumped into American tourists. When we clicked over being from America, she asked “we’re from Maine. Know where that is?”
5. 2/5 eurail trips sat across from the train lush
6. Eating fried cheese made by my (Budapest) host… I tried to tell him that it’s incredibly unhealthy. His response: it has no bread, only bread is unhealthy
7. Retes in peach and chocolate. Delicious. (Hungary)
8. “America makes the rules. Everyone else follows…or else.” — conversation on whether tourists should learn basics when visiting foreign countries. Local disagreed that it was necessary.
9. At least one cappuccino a day. Always paired with water and a chocolate. Why can’t we do that?
10. Danube? Meh. “Artist” should’ve wrote about Big Sur- no bias.
11. The feminist in me is so angry with Budapest.
12. Margitsziget- “green city” island between buda and pesch. Giant park think Central Park. Nasty little bugs having sex everywhere.
13. It is 70 degrees and SUNNY out. Why are people bundled up!? Some are even wearing down coats.
14. “No problem, Chuck”. Is that from a movie?
15. People need to use deodorant. Ugh. 😷
16. Be careful. Eurail pass is probably not worth it. Lots of hidden fees and additional costs.
17. So much appreciation for bathrooms that combine toilets with sinks.
18. I’m so used to SF’s no judgement attire that being treated rudely because I’m dressed casually is a rude awakening. Also because I’m female. I was literally shoved to the back of a restaurant where someone was washing dishes less than two feet away from me to wait even though it was time for my reservation.
19. I’ve walked over 100 miles the past 2 weeks. I deserve a double-double from In’n’Out.
