Zang Toi: The Americana Experience F/W 2019 From NYFW
Enhancing the world with beauty and grace: An immigrant success story, from Malaysia to the U.S.A.
By Cindy Ann Peterson
With the usual fanfare, Zang Toi closed out the New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2019 season with his “All American Collection”. Named a patriotic collection “as a tribute to the country that I love, that I called home the very first day I arrived in New York 38 years ago,” exclaims Zang Toi!
Since arriving in the U.S. in 1981 with a mere three hundred dollars in his pocket, Toi has been the very embodiment of the immigrant success story. It has not been realized without its travails. But it is proof that when talent, dogged persistence, and a bit of luck converge, hard work does pay dividends.
Each season, the inspirations for his designs has been drawn from his adventures around the globe. And this season has been no different. Inspired by his trip to the Grand Canyon, the F/W 2019 collection was not only a celebration of the flag of his adopted home, but pays homage to the nation that has made his success possible.
“Zang Toi collections are always so exquisite. He is such a perfectionist. Each fashion show feels like a journey through his inspiration.” — Rocco Leo Gaglioti, President of FNL Network , FNL Network in USA & FNL in UK
With Rudy Miles of Ubati, and Eiji of Sahag, and partnering with Joe DiMaggio (yes, they’re related) of Davines, creating the Hollywood glamour of Veronica Lake, the F/W 2019 collection was indeed a full-blown American affair. Wolford, the Austrian textiles manufacturer completed the looks, providing the tights and stockings.
While this show included Toi’s signature use of Loro Piana cashmere and Saga Royal fox capelets, the use of denim and Converse’s Chuck Taylor All-Stars made it eminently clear that this collection was inspired more by the dust kicked up by an old Mustang along Old Route 66 than a stroll around the Trevi Fountain.
Toi’s exclusive use of red, white, and blue was symbolic of his commitment to the theme of this show. It is nonetheless interesting to note how the meanings of these colors have changed over the centuries.
Color signified in 1776
Red: hardiness and valor
White: purity and innocence
Blue: vigilance, perseverance and justice
Color meanings today in 2019
Red: passion, courage, love, luck and prosperity
White: safety, cleanliness and innocence
Blue: trust, serenity, integrity, responsibility, sea and sky
As if to signal his rebirth in America, the show began in a darkened venue with only a fiery crimson glow at the end of the runway. The room then lightened with the models emerging to Kenny Chesney’s American Kids.
The first look emerged with a navy kid mohair sculpted floor length coat with blanket stripes in sweeping casual beauty. Likening itself to beautiful Navaho blankets from the desert Southwest: the note of the horizontal striping surrounds the coat with a connection to earth and sky.
Follow-on looks then switched to denim. But rather than stereotyping this traditional cotton workhorse fabric into American labor, Toi transformed the fabric to symbolize high fashion, American style. Notable looks included the first three looks (after the opening look):
- Dark navy-blue denim trench with Toi’s signature upturned peak lapel, worn with vest in cotton corduroy back.
- Denim fabrication car coat with contrast lapel, like many a western shirts and jackets with an instinctive Western aptitude. Worn with a slim denim slack and sleeveless jean jacket.
- Dark navy-blue oversized vest with navy cotton dropped square pockets, that reach beyond the hem of the vest, with sleeve triple pin tucked sleeved jean jacket and corduroy skinny jean.
Toi’s reinterpretation of the classic bib overalls was of particular interest, in which he created a jean tunic and denim jean shorts combination, complete with signature pocket studs and worn with a hand-loomed turtleneck.
Of the denim collection, supermodel Carol Alt remarked that;
“In a sense, the Zang Toi show was a departure from his usual”, adding that “as someone who loves jeans but can never find elegantly tailored pieces made from denim, I was thrilled to see the amazing things that he could do with the material” as it suited her and fit her lifestyle. Alt has recently featured Zang Toi on her new program Carol Alt’s Living Room on the FNL Network.
The show then transitioned to a more classic Toi oeuvre and his use of furs and jeweled chokers, in which he featured a white doubleface wool crepe high square neck tunic with Saga Royal Fox kimono sleeve with white doubleface wool crepe lean trousers (Look #15)
A number of other beautiful looks included:
- Red Couture Cotton Velvet Evening Sculpted Coat with Saga Royal Mink Sculpted Collar with Red Couture Cotton Velvet Sleeveless Jumpsuit with Hand Beaded Cross Necklace (Look #21)
- Navy Couture Silk Gazar with Navy Silk Organza Pleated Ruffled Strapless Gown with Sapphire/Diamond Hand-Beaded Heiress Necklace with Crosses (Look #22)
- Navy Moiré Grand Dame Empired Gown with Sapphire/Diamond Hand-Beaded Heirloom Necklace with Crosses (Look #26)
One eye-catching look was the red moiré All American Princess Shirtwaisted Ballgown (Look #25), harking back to the doyenne of the “American Look”, Claire McCardell.
The shirtwaist dress had been the mainstay of American women in the post-World War II milieu. Reinterpreting this dress, Toi created a fitted bodice and a full ballroom skirt, transforming this dress into an exquisite and elegant piece for formal events.
Finally, in a reprise to his earlier look from 2002, designed in the aftermath of 9/11, was the portrait of the “All American Freedom Gown.” With the entire audience on its feet the red, white and blue confetti was tossed into the air surrounding Toi and the American beauty. A joyful and spirited thanks from a designer of humble beginnings onto a global stage with grace and excellence. Refined charm, beauty, and elegance are alive in New York City.
Quotable Quotes:
“Carefree and comfortable yet couture and chic were key elements of style which Zang has artfully mastered. His collection was as hot as apple pie in mid-July…..The show’s finale featured a twinkling red, white and blue number, the “All American Freedom Gown,” that would make the Lady in the Harbor nod her head in approval. Zang Toi, designer by trade, American at heart!” — Former Miss New York and Author Judith Ann Graham
“An homage to a nostalgic Americana!” — Montgomery Frazier, Founder “The Image Guru” @SohoMuse.com
“I’ve known Zang Toi many years, decades, matter of fact, and have watched him year after year — season after season — add a sense of creativity to The World of Clothes that rises to the level of being called Fashion: High Fashion. From his choice of fabrics, artistic imagery, and design — whether a tight fitting close to the body pair of jeans to a flowing evening gown he has never strayed from that path” — Richard Renda, Executive Producer / owner of the trademark Totally Cool ®
“Zang Toi, like so many Americans, comes with a classic American immigrant story. One populated by dreams and a work ethic unlike any other in the world, inspired by freedom and opportunity. His collection beamed with pride for his adopted country and Zang’s achievements. And it once again showcased all his talents for making exquisitely designed and executed luxury clothing.” — Laurie Schechter, Fashion Director, Editor, Stylist, Writer and Producer
Runway Music by Kevin Edwards
Music Credits:
1. My Beautiful America — Charlie Daniels Band (Prelude)
2. American Kids — Kenny Chesney (Opening)
3. American Love — Jake Owen
4. America The Beautiful — Leslie Odom Jr.
5. God Bless America — Celine Dion
6. The Stars And Stripes Forever — Arthur Fiedler And The Boston Pops
