Half Dome In A Day
An epic hike that doesn’t require a passport.
If you want to see the best of America, you cannot skip Yosemite. The secret is out, and the Valley feels a bit like Disneyland these days. It’s nearly impossible to get a campsite during the summer, and thanks to beautiful Instagram images (plus a successful #FindYourPark campaign), the park is experiencing record visitor numbers.
Crowds and all, everyone should go. If you’re looking for an amazing hike, consider Half Dome.
In 2011, I was invited to join a group doing a midnight hike, and I got my first sights of Yosemite while watching the sun rise at the top. Since then, I’ve summited five additional times, and will never grow tired of the views. My body hurts a little more every time I do the all-day hike, so in case I don’t lead many more trips, I thought I’d write up something that others can use when they make plans.
First things first, Half Dome is a pretty brutal hike if you do it in one day. Depending on your speed, plan for 10-14 hours. If you think you’re too old, my dad did the hike at 64. To his credit, he’s hiked Kilimanjaro multiple times and has exercised most of his life. He took the full 14 hours, but still, it’s possible in your 60s. You also need to control any fear of heights :)
I’ll break it down in chronological order, starting with preparations, ending with a breakdown of the long hike.
Getting Permits
If you know when you want to travel, enter the annual lottery (open from 3/1 to 3/31) and pick some dates that might work. You can boost your odds and get multiple people to apply — important if want permits on a Saturday. If multiple people win, you can get a refund for the extras ($10 each) and just lose the lottery fee ($10), or find more people that want to do the hike that day. Scheduling for a full moon is nice (surprising amount of light), but the star gazing is better with little or no moon.
If you don’t get passes through the annual lottery, you have a few other options:
Daily lottery: A couple days before you hike, you can enter the daily lottery and see if the park service has some available. Similar to the annual lottery, you can have multiple people apply, but no refunds if you win extras. My brothers and I did this in May 2018 and all three people won (had 12 passes for 4 people). It’s a good problem to have, far better than zero, and arguably still worth the extra money.
Bum a pass: There will be people on the dome and Subdome that will have extra permits (like me in 2018). You can chat with people and see who has a permit surplus, then hike down with or after them (just make sure you have a name to give the park rangers).
Backpacker permit: Yosemite holds a number of passes for backpackers who can’t plan ahead. If you’re desperate, you can say that you’re backpacking through and need a wilderness permit for the evening + half dome for the next day. A couple friends did this when we needed two extra passes, but I can’t say what exactly you need to tell them to get a Half Dome permit as a backpacker.
Night hike: Regardless of your permit status, you’ll want to start early (like 2am). If you’re close to the summer solstice, starting at 1am isn’t a bad idea, because of the early sunrise and afternoon heat. If you start early, you’ll likely beat the rangers on the way up, and maybe on the way down. If you pass them in the “Woods” section, they will ask about Half Dome. You can avoid an expensive ticket if you don’t mind telling a lie. I’ve never done this — I’m just relaying the message that I’ve heard from other early hikers. I believe the permit quota is set up to avoid crowding on the cables, so if you go really early, you’re not contributing to the crowd. Your call if you want to test this.
For timing, some people like to watch the sunrise from the summit, but it’s pretty cold. If you time it right, you can enjoy the indirect light (next pic) on the way up, and watch the sun hit the dome.
Where To Sleep
Upper Pines Campground — First, good luck getting a campsite. These are made available six months before the date, and they are gone in 30 seconds (literally). These campsites are great, right by the start of the trail. Upper Pines is car camping, with sinks, toilets, fire pit, etc. It’s worth trying to get a site when they become available, or calling to see if there are any cancellations. Quick rant: the National Park Service really needs to revamp this process. The low price is meant to make these sites available to everyone, but in reality, all the campsites are snatched up by high tech bots and seasoned pros. Since these campsites are priced way below market rate, some unscrupulous people will resell on secondary markets.
Half Dome Village Tent Cabins — Closer to glamping, tent cabins are great because there’s no campsite to pack and plan for. It’s right next to Upper Pines, so you’re still close to the beginning of the trail. This is a pretty comfy way to stay in Yosemite Valley, and you’ll have access to showers. If you’ve got money to burn, check out the Ahwahnee Hotel (now known as Majestic Yosemite).
Outside The Valley — There are cute towns on the way there, with plenty of lodges and BnBs that are more expensive, but not as competitive to book. I stayed in an Airbnb in Groveland that comfortably slept four people. It’s more difficult to get an early start since you have to drive into the valley, but you’ll sleep well for half the night, and it’s a quick trip with no traffic into the park.
All nighter/24 hour Turnaround — This feels insane to describe, but it’s how I’ve done it 50% of the trips (but probably won’t do again). Take off from the Bay Area, drive into the night, arrive around midnight, and start hiking. No sleep. Adrenalin keeps you going, and the lack of rest doesn’t really hit until late in the descent. I recommend taking hammocks and napping in the valley, or at least sleeping a bit in the car before heading back. In 2013, Ableen, Harrison and I left San Francisco around 5pm on a Friday, summited Half Dome, and got back to the city in under 24 hours. It’s fun to tell the story, but I was pretty worthless for the rest of the weekend.
Backpacking/Little Yosemite Valley — I’ve only hiked Half Dome as a one-day up & down from the valley, but camping would be cool if you’re up for backpacking to camp in Little Yosemite Valley. If you have the gear, and know what you’re doing, this is a great way to break up the hike, and you can also summit Cloud’s Rest if you stay a third day. I can’t speak from experience, but definitely do some research on getting a spot in Little Yosemite Valley, and go for the backpacker permit mentioned above.
Gear+Water+Food
Unique photo ops are great, but consider the added weight of any accessories. We had a lot of fun with promotions for Zimride and Lyft, and my friend Krina took fashionable shoes, but don’t go crazy. Any added weight is more pain on your lower body at the end of the day.
There is a spot to fill water one mile into the hike (after the bridge approaching Vernal Falls). This allows you to have lighter packs for the beginning, but it’s important to call and confirm the water station near Vernal Falls is working. It will shut down for winter or after flooding.
My List:
- Food: a simple sandwich, trail mix, Clif Bars, an apple, electrolyte powder.
- Water: Yosemite recommends a gallon per person, but you can usually manage with a couple liters of H2O and a liter of Gatorade if it’s not too hot. Take some tablets to purify water from the Merced River if you need. Communicate with everyone in your group to make sure no one runs dry.
- Backpack: a good waist strap is nice to carry weight on your hips. Camelbacks are great for easy access to water.
- Gloves: For the cables, but you can also use for warmth in the early hours. Simple gardening gloves do the trick. There used to be a pile of gloves at the base of the cables, but now it’s encouraged to take your own and pack them out, or hand them off to someone on the Subdome.
- Shoes: Grippy sole is important. I prefer hiking boots (ankle protection), but many people like hiking shoes or trail runners (all have grip). Be sure to break them in, even take them on the stairmaster/incline treadmill if you want to really prepare.
- Clothes: dryfit shirt & fleece jacket, hiking shorts (or pants that easily convert to shorts), bandana, hat, Smart Wool socks, and hiking undies. It will be a little chilly when you start in the early morning (some people pack leggings), but I like wearing shorts the entire time (incline warms you up, not good to break a sweat in the cold).
- Poles: I’ve never used them. My dad did, and was glad he took them.
- Headlamp: have one person in the group pack extra batteries.
- Misc: Sunglasses (+croakies), bandaids, insect repellent, small secondary battery+charge cord for phones, sunscreen, lip balm, and toilet paper.
No need to take anything gourmet — plenty of good food to enjoy in the valley when you’re done. For being in the middle of wilderness, Yosemite Valley has great food options. There’s an epic brunch at the Majestic Hotel if you hike on a Sunday, but I like getting pizza and ice cream in Yosemite Village. At that level of exhaustion, the food tastes AMAZING!
The Hike
Half Dome breaks down into five stages:
Vernal Falls — this is paved and simple at the beginning, then plenty of steps as you pass the amazing waterfall. With the massive snowfall in 2018/2019, the waterfalls will really be flowing in the late spring and early summer, and you will get wet on your way to the waterfall (“Mist Trail”). It’s not too bad, but some people take a simple poncho (the bigger the falls, the heavier the mist). After you reach the very top, you can go all the way to the railing and enjoy the sounds at the top of the waterfall. Follow the trail with the water on your left, then cross the bridge over the river, and follow the trail to a small flat area that approaches Nevada Falls. You’ll reach a short valley, then hang a left into the woods, and find your way up…
Nevada Falls — This is also an impressive waterfall, but you might not see much at night. This section starts in the woods, then has plenty of steps and switchbacks (take your time) as you pass the waterfall on your right. You’ll see an outhouse at the top, and will follow the trail to the left.
Little Yosemite Valley — After a little more uphill, this flat section is a welcome break from the incline. It’s a decent path of sandy dirt, and shouldn’t take long (save your breaks for the incline sections). This section ends when the trail goes between two tall trees (next pic), standing like pillars at an entrance. This might be where the permit checkers (park rangers) hang out, if they decide not to go up to the Subdome.
Woods — You’ll pass another sign for Half Dome at the beginning of this section, reminding hikers to have permits (not required until the Subdome). This section continues the elevation climb, and seems to go on forever. There are plenty of fallen trees that make for great resting spots, and you’ll probably see wildlife (maybe deer, bobcat if you’re lucky, cougar not likely, but they are there). It’s worth packing some insect repellent to scare away the mega-mosquitos that can appear. Near the end, the trees open up, and you can take a quick detour to gaze at Yosemite Valley.
Sub & Half Dome — As you reach the tree line, the views suddenly become incredible. Take your time, as this is where the risk becomes higher. Lots of steps, switchbacks, and no railing (keep your hands free for balance).
Watch out for loose gravel on the Subdome, admire the beautiful trees coming out of the rock, and stretch out your quads (knees are doing a lot of work). The danger is mostly in fainting or slipping on loose rocks. I’ve never seen a fall, but the margin for error is low, and a mistake could be fatal. Take your time, and enjoy the view at the top of the Subdome. This is a great spot for pics, and a chance to rest before the cables.
The final push up the cables isn’t for everyone. Some groups all make it up, sometimes half the people get to the summit. Nothing wrong with turning around if the heights get to you.
The cables take about 20 minutes, and should not be rushed. The big advantage of arriving early is avoiding the crowds on the cables. If you don’t mind the weight of a GoPro, you can capture some great pics of friends (best to avoid pulling out your phone). Your arms will do a lot of work, especially if your shoes don’t have good grip. I’ve seen some people struggle in regular shoes (and once, an NBA player in Crocs), but this puts a lot of stress on your upper body. While I don’t think you need full harness & ropes, I like clipping in on the way down (next paragraph). Enjoy the views as you reach each wood block, and check in with friends to see how everyone is doing. This can be difficult if you are afraid of heights, so it’s nice to have some people in the group with experience to assist.
To Clip or Not To Clip
Most people will tell you that ropes are not necessary, but the fear of falling is enough for plenty of people to put on a harness at the base of the cables. I think harnesses are too much trouble, but I like having something for going down the cables (clipping in on the way up is more trouble than it’s worth, but some people do it). I created a simple waist loop out of a climbing rope and put a good sized carabiner on the extension. It’s a great confidence booster on the descent, which leads to a better pace, and you’ll enjoy the sights more (I’m happy to loan mine out). Note: this has never been put to the test of someone falling, and it’s not designed for hanging like a rock climber. In the event of a fall, the rope will pinch you at the waist (above the hips and below the rib cage), and will keep you close to the cable line. Again, I’ve never seen someone fall, but it’s nice to be clipped in on the way down, in case the person above you slips. You can only control yourself, not other people.
SUMMIT!
It’s not much of a peak, but a good place to hang & eat (or rest) and enjoy the views. You can try to find the actual highest spot, but there are other features that are more interesting.
Some highlights:
- Group shot on the point. It’s not as dangerous as it might look, definitely worth asking a stranger to take the pic. Go all the way to the end if you like, and check out the King’s Chair if you’re feeling daring.
- Peer over the edge. Near the place you’ll shoot the group pic, you can lay on your stomach and scoot to the edge to admire the 2,000 foot drop.
- The little diving board. This isn’t for everyone, but if you want to really get your adrenalin going, climb out on the rock sticking out over the edge. This is not far from the group pic spot. PLEASE BE CAREFUL! (video)
- Stack some rocks. Leave an environmentally friendly “I was here” mark with a cairn.
- FaceTime with a friend or post to Instagram (pretty good signal up there).
- Take in the sights. There’s nothing like it on Earth.
Watch out for squirrels and marmots — they will chew through your bag and run off with your food. This is why you should NOT leave bags on the Subdome, unless a friend is there to keep watch. There’s a lot of space to explore, but it’s also plenty of sun exposure, so don’t take too much time.
The Descent
On the way down the cables, communicate with people going up so you can meet at each block, and avoid passing between the poles. Again, the clip+rope is nice on the descent, and it’s easier to enjoy the views when you’re attached to the cables. It’s best to avoid pulling out your phone for pics, but it’s hard to not capture the sights. Just be careful, or wait until the end and snap some shots of friends on their way down.
Be careful going down the Subdome, since there can be gravel and not much to hold onto if you slip (not a serious threat, just take your time). Look for animals on the downhill through the woods, and watch for mosquitos. When you finish the flat walk in Little Yosemite Valley, you’ll get to the outhouse, and you have two options for going down:
- Waterfall route (the way you went up). Going down the steps can be harder on your knees, but this is the faster way down. You’ll also get to go past the waterfalls in the daylight. When you get to Vernal Falls, the crowd gets thicker, so be prepared to share the trail with more people (including kids).
- John Muir Trail — This trail forks left at the outhouse, and you can go check out the top of Nevada Falls (pretty amazing). You’ll go over a bridge, into the woods, get a nice shot of Nevada Falls along the path (next pic), and continue down with a lot of switchbacks.
I prefer the Waterfall route, because the JMT takes longer, but some people like avoiding the crowds and enjoy the flat path.
However you hike it, you won’t regret it. If you think the cables look scary, it’s because they are :) That said, it’s still worth hiking there and taking a look before you rule it out. Just hiking to the top of Subdome is an accomplishment to be proud of, and worth the trip. If you’re looking for a fitness goal, a bonding experience, or an excuse to see Yosemite, this is something you should do. The Half Dome hike is more rewarding than it is challenging, and an experience you’ll never forget.
