Bespoke vs. Made-To-Measure

When buying a suit, it is essential to have it tailored for you. Maybe you don’t tailor your shirts, jeans, or trousers, but your suits should always be tailored. And if you can’t get them tailored, strive to at least find a good OTR suit from H&M or Banana Republic.

The current problem between bespoke and MTM is that they are used incorrectly. Well, mainly companies tend to use bespoke when they are really made-to-measure. There is a huge difference in the amount of freedom, quality, and time a bespoke suit has from a MTM suit.

Bespoke

Bespoke derives from the word bespeak which means to speak for. With bespoke tailoring, clothing is made to an individual buyer’s specification by a tailor. The buyer has total control over the fabrics used, features, fit, and the way the way the garment should be made. With off-the-rack or made-to-measure suits, they tend to come with preset sizes, but with bespoke tailoring, everything is made specifically for each individual. There is no use of a base pattern.

One of my favorite aspects of bespoke is the freedom you get. Most bespoke tailors can choose fabrics from 10+ mills. You have a larger variety of fabrics to choose from than MTM. You can choose the buttons you want, the way they are stacked, and even modify the smallest of parameters. There is no limit on options, regardless of the complexity.

The downside to bespoke tailoring is why I prefer made-to-measure. There is a lot of fittings, north of 5 fittings, which means you can expect to wait months before you get the finished product. So it is best to meet directly with the tailor that will be doing all of the work. For all of this work, expect to pay north of $2,000.

If you don’t mind spending thousands, waiting months, and attending multiple fittings, then bespoke is for you. Plus, the amount of freedom over your suit is amazing. You can be sure, if you take advantage of the freedom, that you’ll have a one-of-a-kind suit.

Made-To-Measure

Made-to-measure is more common. Using presets and standard sizes for customers, then they alter them for the customer. For example, I am a 38R, but if the arm length is longer than I want it, I would have a tailor alter it. I prefer the length of my jacket to be shorter than most, so my tailor will alter it for me. I frequently order online from Combatant Gentlemen or Oliver Wick, so I never have an actual attend a fitting. However, when you do go in for fitting, you’ll only do it once or twice. And the first fitting is technically measuring. With MTM, you don’t need to talk to a tailor until after measurements, which is done by a trained store clerk. Nevertheless, if you have a chance to talk to the tailor through the whole process, do it.

The problem with made-to-measure is the limited amount of freedom. Unlike bespoke, MTM tailors get fabric from 1–2 mills. And you can’t change the small details. However, if your classics and functional, you don’t need the fanciest of fabrics or the coolest of buttons. Even with the limited freedom and lack of change in the minute details, you will still get a precise fit.

There is a huge price difference between the two. You can get a great made-to-measure suit from anywhere between $200 to $1000.Combatant Gent has great prices on MTM suits that start at $220. Bespoke is more freedom and higher quality, but MTM beats off-the-rack any day.

Off-The-Rack

These suits are cheap, sized to fit the masses, and what you see is what you get. Often you’ll get fake buttons on the sleeves and disproportionate lengths. I can remember buying a suit from a thrift store years ago. This was back when I had no style and didn’t care about style. I remember it being a 36R, but the sleeves were too short and the length just swallowed me. It was hideous, but I bought it because I didn’t know any better.

When forced to shop off the rack, be sure to go to better quality stores. Men’s Wearhouse, Banana Republic, H&M, and Express for Men are all good stores to find the best OTR suits. Heck, I still wear my H&M navy suit to this day. These companies have a better understanding of their shoppers and are able to serve the masses while trying to look MTM. The key is to go slim fit if you’re smaller than 170lbs. Go regular fit if your above that. That will dramatically help improve the look of an OTR suit. Plus it helps if you are healthy and toned because I assume they use male models, or just fit men, for each size range.

In conclusion, I prefer MTM over bespoke, and definitely over OTR. The turnaround time is great, the fit is near perfection, and it doesn’t cost a fortune. With companies like Combatant Gent, they are competing with the OTR retailers with their amazingly low price, but good quality and with the benefit of being MTM.

-JaQuan Bryant