Things to do in the Sierras

What I found, and left behind.

I’ve just arrived back

from nine days backpacking in Yosemite and the Ansel Adams wilderness. We covered 83 miles and 40,000 feet in elevation, looping from Glacier Point out into the high back country. Our final descent began at 10,500 feet; we followed the Merced river from source to vast river in Yosemite Village, climbing down each dramatic drop in the valley floor.

I’ve collected here the things we enjoyed, big and small. Hopefully this will give ideas for future adventures.

Our first minute of hiking at Glacier Point. Half Dome, the granite above our heads, will be where we end up on top of at 8am on Day 9

Learn the Power Plod

Our first entertainment was to acclimatise to carrying our packs (25kg — around 30% bodyweight). Having no way to re-fuel during the nine days, all of our food and bodily needs had to come with us; in a fleet of 6 beautiful bear canisters. Oli taught us the ‘Power Plod’, an affectionate term for the slow lumbering one resorts to in the face of heavy loads and steep trails.

Filter a lot of water

Despite the water being mountain-clear, there could still be nasty bugs. Diarrhoea could jepardise a nine day trip

Construct a shelter from trees, hiking poles and emergency blankets

Yosemite is normally clear blue skies and warm sun. However, we began in the tail of a hurricane system under overcast skies and plenty of rain. With cold soaked sleeping bags we cut our hike short to dry our kit over a fire.

Sleep in a cave

Sleeping bags finally dry, we resolve not to get soaked again. Given the heavy clouds above, the bivvy sack sleepers spend a delightfully warm dry night in a cave. There was no appearance of a disenfranchised bear.

Give thanks for the amazing sun and clear skies. Every day.

Fish for tiny high altitude trout, then freak out when you catch one

Make stick bread (Pinne Bröd)

One of the benefits of having a Swedish Scout leader nearby is the sophisticated camp-craft. Ulf brough a mix of flour and baking powder for making campfire bread. Simply add water, knead, wrap around sticks and bake on hot coals. Ulf managed to bake thin cannoli style bread on his well sharpened stick, which we then filled with Nutella.

Walk for six and a half days without seeing anyone else…

Henrik in raft on the Amazon river. He’d been cycling for 4 years prior, of course.

… then meet Henrik and learn about his Amazon raft adventure

Read about what he got up to: showmeamazonas.com

Not see a bear

Hiking in Yosemite is almost synonymous with Black Bear. “Speed kills bears” road signs, bear t-shirts, bear notices, bear lockers, bear cannisters. Despite our tasty fish, cave dwelling and sleeping surrounded by bear prints, none ever appeared.

Live by the sun and stars…

You live with the daylight, as the sun sets so do you. You intimately know the changing of the moon, the colours and flow of dawn, these are your daily rituals. When you run out of tasks for the day you simply watch the sun descend.

… find that you sleep better outdoors…

Lots of things encourage good sleep in the wilderness. The daylight synchronisation. It’s a bit colder and sleeping bags are cozy. The air is fresh. No coffee shops addle your system. You’ve spent all day exerting youself. You eat measured amounts. It’s quiet. There’s no laptop. There’s nothing to do for 12 hours each day.

*Credit: Dax McMillian/Department of the Interior*

… and change your urban life to match

I’m massively reducing my daily coffee intake. More herbal teas. I’m going to sleep earlier. I’ll try to exercise every day.

Lose track of days

When reaching Yosemite Village, I genuinely asked a stranger “What day is it?”

Post Peak Pass, roughly 10,500 feet above sea level

Melt snow for drinking water

We couldn’t find any lakes on one leg of our journey. Therefore to cook and hydrate we boiled up the snow on a stove. Double adventure points.

Have no idea how dirty your face is

(Answer: much more than this morning photo reveals)

Thaw the ice off of your sleeping bag in the morning

Most mornings we’d use the sun to melt and dry the frost and ice out of our sleeping bags. Regardless, we were toasty inside.

Travel through a burnt forest

The Meadow fire left long corridors of trees black and lifeless. Burning trunks lay in a few places. This section was only open to day-time hiking, no overnight camping.