Chios: World-Famous Mastic, Medieval Villages, and More

If you’re looking to immerse yourself in Greek culture, consider spending a week on Chios. This far-flung island in the Aegean Sea is about a nine-hour ferry ride from the port of Piraeus in Athens — it’s actually much closer to Turkey than the Greek mainland. While some nearby islands start to feel similar, Chios stands out for its unique villages, many beaches, and local history and products. It’s possibly best known for mastic, a sap from a locally grown tree that is world renowned for its medicinal properties. Chios is also traditionally considered the birthplace of Homer, the legendary Ancient Greek poet.

The best way to get to know Chios is to book a week’s stay at a local accommodation and have a travel agency arrange for a rental car so that you can see the entire island. Read on for a look at what the island has to offer.

Chios-town

Your first stop on the island will be Chios-town, Chios’ largest urban center. Don’t be put off by the traffic and busyness — once you settle in, you’ll find plenty to do and see here before beginning your island-wide exploration. An easy place to start is the old city, which is contained in a 10th-century Byzantine castle that once was surrounded by a moat. The moat was drained and is now used as a parking lot, but the walls and entrances are still imposing. Inside, you’ll find a Turkish cemetery, a dungeon, and Turkish-style houses once owned by Ottomans.

Voukianiou Square, the town’s large central park, is a great place to relax and enjoy local life. The park has tables and cafés, and you’re likely to see older men playing board games and cards on a line of traditional-style tables. The column you’ll see on the north side of the park commemorates the town leaders who the Ottoman Turks hung there in 1822 after holding them in a dungeon for 40 days. On the park’s east side stands an old Turkish mosque that is now home to the Byzantine Museum, and you’ll also find a market with produce and fish stalls.

There are plenty of good restaurants in Chios-town that also are prime boat-watching locations. Eateries along the breakwater pier provide a front-row seat to watch ships coming and going from the harbor and passengers walking to and from the ships. You’ll also see ferries departing to Turkey from docks in front of the customs house.

Several museums in Chios-town offer a look into the island’s history. The Archaeological Museum on Mixalon Street a few blocks from the water is well-staffed, and the descriptions of artifacts have full English translations. Look for exhibits of ancient coins and jewelry, Greek and Roman statues, and an ancient mausoleum. The Maritime Museum, which is a short walk from the port, contains extensive exhibits illustrating Chios’ important role in the modern shipping industry. Meanwhile, the Guistiniani Museum by the castle’s main gate has murals, icons, Genovese art, and Byzantine frescoes.

Mastic villages

These 14th century villages, which were built during Genovese rule, make Chios truly unique. Known as mastikahoria, these settlements developed around the cultivation of mastic trees, which only are grown on Chios. Their sap, called mastic, was so valuable that the Genovese fortified the island to protect it — and when the Ottoman Turks invaded the island and massacred its residents, they didn’t touch the mastic villages. Thanks to centuries of protection, many of the villages’ medieval structures remain, including elaborately painted houses in Pirgi and fortresses in Olympi and Mesta, where the central towers, original street designs, and churches are preserved.

Here are a few notable places to visit in Chios’ mastic villages:

· The Christopher Columbus house near the town square in Pirgi is supposed to be the family home of the famous explorer, although some historians maintain he was from Genoa.

· The Cave of Olympi, located a few kilometers outside the village, has the most stalagmites and stalactites per square meter of any cave in the Balkan islands. A 20-minute tour of the cave leaves every hour most days of the week.

· The Church of the Taxiarchis in Mesta, the best-preserved mastic village on Chios, dates to the fourth or fifth century. The church contains frescoes and wood carvings that depict scenes from the Old Testament and Jesus’ life.

For a souvenir, buy a product made of mastic, which is said to have healing properties and also served as the world’s first chewing gum. Vendors at the central market in Chios-town sell everything from mastic-based jams to brandies. You also may want to pick up a bottle of local ouzo while there.

Beaches

Unlike most of the islands that surround it, Chios has more than 30 beaches. That means all tastes can be accommodated, whether you’re looking for a secluded coastline or a popular family beach. Some beach towns, such as Karfas and Komi, have hotels, or you can make your home base in Mesta or Chios-town and reach a number of beaches in less than a 20-minute drive. Agia Dynami beach is known for its gorgeous turquoise water, and Trahilia is a thin peninsula flanked by beaches with great snorkeling. If you’re interested in a long day at the beach, consider Merikounta, Potami, or Apothika.

This list only touches on the many places to visit and experience in Chios. Leave time to visit the excavated temple to Athena in Emborio, relax on the black pebble beach at Foki, and shop for pottery in Armolia. You may find that a week on Chios just isn’t enough!