Intro and Day 1
It is all about expectations. Being so many times in Norway and seeing its pure beauty of nature I can simply demand more which may lead to the very high expectations. This country has never disappointed me with its landscapes, breathtaking views and wild nature but I have been travelling all over this country to that extent that it was hard to choose the place this year. This time I decided to come back to one of the most beautiful areas in Norway — Hardangerfjord to see if there is something that I had missed before, and indeed it was. Trolltunga — the most spectacular rock formation in Norway, situated about 1,100 meters above sea level and hovering some 700 metres above Lake Ringedalsvatnet.
Before Trolltunga some highlights of Hardanger.
Usually driving car in Norway is an amazing adventure as itself, the road to Hardangervidda showed nothing else like spectacular views, variety of changing landscapes: wild mountains, tons of stones, some areas covered with snow and some reminding moon landscape.
Day 2
Before I attack Trolltunga, some pre-hike work needs to be done.
Husedalens valley, there you are able to hike 5–6 hours and see four amazing waterfalls. The first one is the Tveitafossen, extremely energetic waterfall where the water flows down over 103 meters with enormous power to the river Kinso. It is very impressing when you see this spectacular waterfall. The falling down water is pretty cold, you cannot stay in there more than some seconds. Anyway I had to admit that it was gorgeous to be there.
Day 3
It supposed to be Trolltunga today but due to the uncertain weather conditions I decided to postpone the hiking until the next day.
A lazy day instead in Ullensvang and Øvre Eidfjord.
Day 4
I took a good decision yesterday. The right time is always coming for everything. Today was the day. Trolltunga here I come! Sun is shining, very warm day expected, no wind, just a perfect timing.
It is not that easy to get to the starting point but finally at 9.15 I’m ready to go up. You can only imagine how it feels when one of the things “must do in your life” will be fulfilled soon. Only 10 km to go.
First two kilometers I’m literally running. I’m too much excited. Probably more about the thing that I’m doing this on my own. Not counting the tourists in such a beautiful day. Anyway I don’t see that many on my way up so I pretend that it is me, myself and I, not forgetting the mountains on the main stage. The spaces are enormous, sky is clear like a blue ice and water flowing from the rocks is shining like diamonds. Amazing.
Stones are everywhere, all sizes included, the difficulty of this trek lies in the fact of the huge amount of those stones that you need to go through by jumping, going, or sliding on them.
Then I slow down when entering the great rock plateau, the landscape is changing dramatically and now I’m standing on the moon. Unforgettable.
Walking further I see some water, more stones and rocks to go through. I’m taking a fast pace promising myself to spend more time here on my way back.
Here in the middle of the trek such an impressive view is showing up. This is what I’ve been waiting for — Ringedalsvatnet lake. Turquoise water is reflecting in the sun which immediately provokes me to hike further to see the rest of the lake from a height of Trolltunga. Yes, Trolltunga is hanging above the lake, not fjord as many would might think. So I do a little break here, but just five minutes, I’m double excited as before and will see the famous cliff as soon as possible.
I continue to hike, how difficult it is? I will not write what is the degree of difficulty, everything depends on how good you are prepared, your condition and to what extent you want to do it. You need to see yourself to get to know it, there is only recommendation I can give it here. Spectacular views compensate all the pain you would may have.
I’m speechless when I look around, my perception is working at dizzying speed, I want to absorb every centimeter of the surrounding nature and don’t want to miss anything.
Now is the time for the final kilometer to see Trolltunga. Not that easy part of hiking (climbing I must say here) but I know that I will be rewarded with the very unique view. I just know it and feel it.
As I haven’t met so many tourists on my way up (unlike Preikestolen 5 years ago where there was a real crowd on the trail) I’m a bit surprised when I see so many people waiting in the line to get on the stone. But I change to a positive approach immediately when I’m in the crowd waiting for my turn and talking with people around me. That’s really wonderful to share the first impressions and feelings with those who exactly did the same just before you or right after. I meet people from different parts of the world, it is a fantastic feeling, as a good observer I had a chance to see how people are excited, extremely tired, but all are happy no matter of physical fatigue.
I’m really enjoying the time in the line, talking with new people, relaxing in the sun on the top in a good company, and waiting for the best to come.
After 2,5 hours waiting on the top the nature is revealing slowly its extreme beauty exposing what it had to show in such fabulous weather and blue sky. I couldn’t expect more. My expectations are fulfilled to the maximum limit. All seem to be complete. As a mountains’ lover I do the hiking to feel endless freedom, to think without limits and totally forget the world. Nothing can compare to this feeling. I experience this on the Trolltunga now.
After some poses on the famous rock I find some more rocks to climb on and do some more amazing shots. Let’s explore what is more to show here.
Unforgettable experience, the adrenaline level is increasing dramatically, the heart rate is faster than usual and this is how it should be. I know that the power and energy I’m gaining now on the rocks will be needed on my way back.
Indeed the return to the parking is taking a lot more of energy and concentration, sometimes is almost knocking me down, but I remember the feeling of standing on the rocks and it gives me the new portion of strength to complete the trek successfully with a very good time, 11 hours totally, including all breaks, taking pictures, waiting 2,5 hours in the queue. Pure hiking time at a fast pace — 5 hours 40 minutes.
Finally at the hotel. I’m trying to relax my legs and rewarding myself by glass of GT. This emotional and full of impressions day will stay in my mind, new ideas are born in my head, dreaming about a night spent in those mountains one day.
Day 5 — Blue Ice Hike Juklavass Glacier, Folgefonna National Park
They say that you need to relax and take it easy after the hiking day to Trolltunga. To break this conviction I wake up early as usual the next day and driving to the Folgefonna Ski Resort to walk on the glacier half a day.
Here I need to do some flashbacks first to have a reference point.
Last year I climbed on Jostedal Glacier (Sogn og Fjordane) and fell in love in the blue glaciers from the first sight. The largest glacier in continental Europe amazed me with the size, colors and incredible power of tons of ice breaking off before my eyes. After seeing this I simply want to see more like this and explore the glaciers as long as they are existing (they melt really fast).
This time on Juklavass Glacier the impressions were not the same, quite flat surfaces, due to the strong sun light I couldn’t see the blue color as much as last year. But let’s start from the beginning.
Getting equipped in the +25 degrees was not that comfortable, I’m glad and enjoying every second anyway in the contrast to my daughter. OK, this is going to be a “fantastic” hike.
First we need to climb over the ski area and we are going up to 1450 m above see level. Our guide is warning us that this is the hardest part of the trek. Let’s check it out!
Covered by ice surfaces are impressive, the ice is very thick (8–10m), on the top the area is quite flat, there is nothing to compare with the blue ice high tops in Jostedal when I was last year. Anyway I enjoy looking at the fantastic panoramic views here.
Due to the very much sun light last days in the area, the ice is melting and you can see quite much hard snow which covers the blue ice. In some places I am lucky to see the slits in the ice sparkles with the blue color.
The whole hike takes about 6 hours, we are walking around on the top, staying in some spots to admire the views.
The last picture with the guide from Denmark and finally the smile om my daughter’s face. Unforgettable.
A new experience for me but too easy challenge and too less blue ice to get my heart beating faster this time. On the other side I can reflect that the expectations were too high simply. One said: “expect nothing, appreciate everything”. A lot of wisdom in this quote.
However, coming back to my heart:-), there is something that makes it beating faster that day. This is the road to the glacier area. Incredible, dangerous and with dramatic, wild views around. On our way to glacier it was additionally very foggy so it was a real challenge to get it there and there was a hot topic for all tourists who were there.
This is the map of the region that I described. Maybe you want to visit one day, see some breathtaking views and feel the infinite freedom?
Day 6 — the road to Kristiansand
On day sixth ready to go and doing “nothing” in flat Kristiansand. The city lies in the other “fylke” so it will not be a subject for this story. However the beginning of the road is worthy to pay attention to. Especially the waterfall Låtefoss got me on my knees.
