Designer, style icon and national treasure, she even collected her OBE from the Queen utterly commando. Although recently accused of plagiarism in her recent biography, we take a look into the career of one of the most controversial designers in the twenty first century — Vivienne Westwood.
Dame Vivienne Westwood has been one of the most powerful designers too have dignified the fashion industry. Best known for her unconventional style, outspokenness and fearlessness, she was not just a main influence in the industry — she dictated it.
Born on 8th April 1951 she was brought into the world as ‘Vivienne Isabelle Swire’ in Glossop, Derbyshire. She began designing in 1971 and opened her first store ‘Let It Rock’ (later named ‘Sex’) at 430 Kinds Road in London. She has always been someone who goes against tradition and by the age of 21 she had already been married, divorced and was raising her son Ben.
1976 was a significant year for Westwood as she met her lover and business partner — Malcolm McLaren. Together they created the global phenomenon of the punk era and even dressed ‘The Sex Pistols’. Her punk style included bicycle chains, dog collars, bondage gear and pins. She also adapted the traditional Scottish tartan fabric to become one of the main focuses of her signature punk look. During this time she gained inspiration from 18th century paintings and based her collection on the eclectic Britannia, punk and modern Victorian style.
In 1981 she presented her first seasonal collection in London, entitled ‘Pirate’. Following on from this, in 1990 she launched her first menswear collection in Florence and was named British designer of the year in 1990 and 1991. She also won the honourable Queens Export Award in 1988.
Vivienne had a big influence on tailoring, she reinvigorated the traditional British tweed jacket and the 10inch platforms, which famously made the renowned Naomi Campbell, fall on the runway.
Nevertheless her cultural impact can be also seen through her political beliefs and statements. She is heavily into political activism and is now on the board of ‘Liberty’ and a spokesperson for ‘Green Peace’. In 1989 she posed on the April cover of ‘Tatler’ magazine, impersonating Britain’s first female prime minister — Margret Thatcher, wearing a suit Thatcher had ordered but not yet received.
Andrew Bradley, Former Head of Sales at French Connection says: “I actually used to sell Vivienne the fabric to manufacture her t-shirts; the same pornographic t-shirts that were subsequently banned for showing graphic imagery. I remember when she founded Seditionaires on Kings road at the forefront of the Punk Movement. In my eyes it was this shop that catapulted her to fashion fame. She will continue to be controversial throughout the entirety of her life and career”.
