The Basics of Folded-Edge and Twice-Turned Hems

Based in South Florida, Eva Lea Klein has an entrepreneurial background that includes managing a department store and engaging as a tailor with Banana Republic in Boca Raton. Eva Lea Klein has experience with a wide range of sewing techniques required for altering clothes, including various seams.

One essential of sewing involves creating seams, the basic component of stitching together two garments. There are dozens of ways to create seams, with one of the most basic being the plain seam. This seam starts with lining up the right sides of two pieces of cloth and pinning them in place. Once the seam is created through a line of stitching along the seam line, the allowances are opened on either side in a way that resembles a butterfly. Straight stitches are most common with this type of seam, with a seam finish used on exposed edges. While not bulky, this type of seam is lacking in durability.

For heavy material, such as felt or suede, a lapped or tucked seam approach may work better, with the fabric on top folded and then placed over the other piece of cloth. While bulky, the fact that heavy fabrics are not liable to fray allows the entire seam allowance of the top piece to be trimmed, reducing bulk to the absolute minimum. For sheer material, try a French seam that encloses both of the raw edges within a single fold. This allows the edges to be hidden without a lot of added bulk.