The Bazaruto Archipelago, Mozambique
Heaven on Earth
The Bazaruto Archipelago is without a doubt the most exceptionally stunning place that I have ever laid my eyes on. My expectations were high, having read National Geographic describe it as “a gift from the Heavens to Earth.” Those expectations were soon superseded by the reality.
At low tide, the ocean of the archipelago recedes for miles revealing the complex underwater landscape of intermittently submerged white sand dunes. The water that remains displays an entire spectrum of blue, from deep midnight to aqua turquoise. Couple that with flawless shores. Uninterrupted sandy beaches lined with giant, luscious green palm trees. This is the paradise of The Bazaruto Archipelago. Dhow fishing boats complete the scene of the natural wonder.
This exquisite coastland rich with Arabic and Portuguese influence, inhabited by happy, effervescent Mozambicans, and so far off the main tourist trail makes Mozambique one of the most captivating, full of character countries that I’ve ever visited.
I still can’t believe that this place exists
Where is the Bazaruto Archipelago?
The Bazaruto Archipelago includes a group of five inhabited islands and is found off the southern coastal district of Mozambique, Vilanculos. The nearest city and airport on the mainland is named Vilankulo. It was once a hugely significant trading port dating back to the 1500s. Historically an important location for Africans, Arabians and Europeans, the fusion of the three cultures has left an exotic medley in modern day Vilankulo.
Mozambique was a popular safari and luxury beach destination in the 60s and 70s, frequented by the rich and famous. Bob Dylan wrote a song in 1976 after visiting Mozambique representing his fondness of the country.
The turmoil of Mozambique’s 21 year post-independence civil war absolutely destroyed the country. Over a million people died during the conflict either in combat or as a result of famine. Almost all of the animals that lived in the game reserves were slaughtered to provide meat for the armies. Only a handful of elephants and lions now remain, scattered throughout the National Parks.
The islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago were left alone during the civil war so remained safe for exclusive fly-in holiday makers who’d normally incorporate the islands as part of a greater Southern Africa trip. As a result the luxury up-market resorts have remained intact and allowed to flourish over the last few decades.
Nowadays, already reinstated as a popular self-catering beach destination for Zimbabweans and South Africans, Vilankulo is slowly resurfacing back onto the map for visitors from outside of Africa, with a range for all budgets.
Pink skies as the sun sets over Mozambique
Travelling in Mozambique; T.I.A — This is Africa
If any of the 11 African countries that I’ve been to is a true representation of T.I.A, it’s Mozambique. If you’re willing to spend $600 USD upwards per person per night, you’ll be able to travel around with ease, comfort and luxury. Your money pays for convenience. If not, you may find the lack of infrastructure, availability of accommodation and general lack of information and things making sense daunting.
These may seem like reasons to dismiss Mozambique, but these are all the exact reasons why I fell in love with the country, and exactly where I want to be as a traveller. Travelling around is still challenging, it’s still exciting and it’s very much an adventure. Untouched and unscathed; you can walk around for miles, both out to sea in the shallow waters or along the shore and honestly the only people that you may or may not come across are the friendly Mozambicans.
The countries surrounding Mozambique are for vacation makers. Mozambique is a country for travellers.
The shores of Vilankulo looking out towards one of the islands
How to get to The Bazaruto Archipelago and where to stay
Getting there
Vilankulo is the gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago. You can arrive here either by air or by road. Vilankulo has an international airport, with direct flights from Johannesburg, Harare and of course Maputo. From London, I flew to Johannesburg and then transferred onto a direct 90 minute flight with Airlink. This return flight cost $500 USD.
Vilankulo is also served by a network of chapas, the local bus service. The chapas from Maputo leave the bus station, Junta. The journey costs just $17 USD but takes up to ten hours to reach Vilankulo. I used a chapa for a short journey within Vilankulo and it’s an opportunity to get a taste of real Mozambican life. However on the longer journeys, without air conditioning, in cramped conditions often sat on your luggage, your patience could be testing.
Once you arrive in Vilankulo a taxi ride to your resort on the mainland should cost no more than $7 USD from the airport, or you’ll be transferred by helicopter out to the islands.
Where to stay
You have the option to stay on an island in the Archipelago or in Vilankulo. The small islands are a tropical utopia. The only signs of human life on them are the handful of honeymoon type resorts. As I was travelling solo I decided to stay in Vilankulo which provided me with a larger variety for eateries, activities and general social-ness.
Beach hut accommodation in Vilankulo
What to do in Vilankulo
This is the main sandy road from the coast to the town centre.
The town centre is an eye opener into the poverty and huge difference in the quality of life that Mozambicans still live in compared to the western world. It’s largely filled with litter and has little to offer for people travelling through, but worth visiting if you have a spare couple of hours.
There are two market places in the town centre. I thought that they would be filled with handmade goods that I’d be interested in purchasing but they’re both very much just markets for the locals selling food and what looks like second hand western clothing. People are found sleeping at their stalls in the high temperatures and the food products (primarily fish, fruit and carbohydrates) are left to bask in the blistering heat satisfying germ plagued flies.
Machilla Magic. Just a little out of town, this workshop sells textiles and woodwork made by local craftsmen. The money made supports the community. The shops sells hundred of different items from photo frames and coffee coasters to larger sculptures and outdoor furniture. One of the artists is always around the shops and eager to describe all of the work.
You can also purchase work from Machilla Magic around the city, in the airport and on the beach. Other tradesmen will be roaming around with paintings, sarongs and other wooden objects that you will find in Machilla. You will have to bring your best bargaining skills to get a good price. Medium sized paintings should be priced around 800–1000 MZN, sarongs around 250 MZN.
One incredible way to explore the beaches of Vilankulo and the mangroves to the south are by horseback with Mozambique Horse Safaris. Situated a 20 minute drive south of Vilankulo town, Mozambique Horse Safaris is run by a fascinating couple. Pat and Mandy Retzlaff were exiled from Zimbabwe and rescued 104 horses along their journey to Mozambique.
After driving for 20 minutes on dirt roads we pulled unexpectedly into what can only be described as a horse utopia. A beautifully maintained ranch, built and looked after by Mandy and Pat which is now home to some of the horses that they rescued from Zimbabwe.
Completely passionate about their horses and where they live, you’ll receive proper horse riding lessons, history lessons and geography lessons whilst on the beaches. Their route takes you south along the mangroves and up towards the sand dunes nicknamed the Fingers of God. It seems only something heavenly could have moulded this place.
Heading back towards the main beach from the Mangroves
Where to eat in Vilankulo
One of the down points of Vilankulo is the lack of decent eateries outside of the hotels. The food in theory should be a huge selling point, with a peri-peri influence from the Portuguese and Arabic spiced coconut fusions with fresh seafood. Their local dish, Matapa, is made from cassava leaves and similar to creamed spinach. It’s delicious and cheap, 200 MZN will get you a dish of matapa with prawns or chicken and rice.
There aren’t many great places to eat in Vilankulo but there are a few worth mentioning.
Other helpful information
General getting about
Everything takes ages. If you order a tuk-tuk it will probably be late. If you pre-order transport from outside of Mozambique it might not turn up (like my airport taxi). Bare this in mind if you’re in a rush. You can haggle down the price of tuk-tuks and the recommended price is 100–150 MZN per person across town.
The recommended time to arrive at Vilankulo for a departing flight is an hour and a half, realistically I’d be comfortable arriving within 45 minutes to an hour.
Mozambicans
Mozambicans are so friendly and eager to chat and tell you their stories.
Service is something that could be improved so don’t lose your patience. Remember, T.I.A. Usually friendly and helpful just very slow and now quite up to speed with dining etiquette. You may find yourself having to chase things but things fall in place with a little helpful nudge.
Money
Some upmarket restaurants and most of the hotels accept VISA cards, but not Mastercard or American Express. You can use USD to pay for some excursions and also in some of the more up-market restaurants and hotels.
If you’re unable to exchange money beforehand there is a young man that will exchange your currency for Mozambican Meticais at the airport. It won’t be the exact exchange rate that you find online for that day but think of it as paying for convenience.
There are only four ATM machines in the city which limit the amount of cash that you can withdraw per day and also frequently run out of cash. Ensure that you always have a supply of at least USD.
LAM
As a pilot one of the first things that I do when planning to take flights outside of Europe and North America is check the stats of airlines. You may want to do this with LAM before flying with them, including their safety records but also their cancellation policies. LAM has a very bad reputation online for leaving their passengers stranded and poor customer relations.
Visa
You need a visa for Mozambique before you enter the country. They checked everyone entering from South Africa on my flight’s passport before they even let us into the terminal.
Contact your local embassy for the requirements necessary for you, and ensure that you bring all the necessary documents already filled out. The embassy’s greatly represent the T.I.A attitude of Mozambique. Give yourself a couple of hours as you may find yourself with 10 others all with no clue on what the queuing or waiting system is.
Vaccines
Anti-Malarials are a MUST for Mozambique. 30% of deaths that happen in Mozambique are due to Malaria so the risk is incredibly high. Check out the Fit for Travel website for up to date vaccination requirements.
Do not forget mosquito repellant.
