Nestled deep in the southern Herzegovina region, with an idyllic location set amongst rolling green hills and the winding Neretva river, Mostar’s cobblestoned streets, minaret-dotted skyline, and famous old bridge bring to life one of the South Eastern Europe’s true gems. While the city effortlessly weaves the natural, cultural, and historical into a tapestry that is bound to please all types of travellers, the surrounding countryside unfolds slowly providing rugged, yet accessible, natural beauty. A Mediterranean climate makes it the perfect vacation spot year round and its position outside the Eurozone leaves it very affordable compared to neighboring Croatia. Too often considered a day trip from nearby Dubrovnik or the capital Sarajevo, Mostar and the surrounding countryside are a more than a “hop-on, hop-off” stop on your travels through the region. A few days spent overnight will reward you with an opportunity to see a truly magical corner of Europe amidst rejuvenation. In short, don’t just check the box. Stay awhile.
Taking its name from the old mostari — the bridge keepers — Mostar has stood witness to centuries of Balkan history. As an important town in the 16th century Ottoman Empire, Mostar was blessed with its most recognizable architectural feature — the Old Bridge. In the intervening centuries, the town maintained its importance and continued to expand as an economic and cultural center under Austro-Hungarian rule and later as part of Yugoslavia. During the 1992–95 war the town was sucked into the madness of war and suffered terribly, and along with the human cost saw the complete destruction of the Old Bridge and much of the old town. As a testament to resilience, Mostar has rebuilt — although scars remain — and it is now enjoying resurgence, due in large part to tourism. This long and turbulent history has left its marks on the town, like the rings on a tree. Each period on display as you roam the streets, passing by churches, mosques, crumbled buildings, and earnest shopkeepers selling everything from tacky trinkets and war memorabilia to local Bosnian artwork and mosaic lamps.
Kujundziluk, the main bazaar running through Old Town and spanning both sides of the river, strikes a fair balance between kitschy and charming, touristic and genuine; regardless of your shopping tastes the prices will not disappoint. Intermingled with the shops are a number of restaurants serving delicious local dishes like Chevapi (meat sausages) or Sahan (minced meat and potatoes), with many overlooking the shimmering river below and some with astounding views of the iconic bridge. Buttressed between the bazaar and the bridge are the Old Bridge Museum and the War Photo Exhibition, working in tandem to offer a visual glimpse into the long and turbulent history of the city. Meanwhile the bridge, thanks to its sharp grade, reveals itself slowly as you walk towards the apex, culminating in a fantastic view of the town. Perhaps more famous than the bridge itself, are the celebrated Mostar Bridge Divers — men who bravely dive (after collecting a few tips) into the icy-cold, swift waters of the Neretva river some 30 meters below. While this daring act takes much practice and is not for the faint of heart, there are lessons available for the intrepid tourist. While the excitement surrounding the potential divers draws a crowd on the bridge, the best views are found down at the riverside below. From below you can enjoy the full show as the divers primp for tourists with a mix of confidence and elegance before jumping from the bridge, knees tucked tight and arms splayed.
Stunning architecture, daring bridge jumpers, endless shopping and delicious local cuisine ensure that old town Mostar will bewitch the tourist; however, a trip is not complete until you leave the cobblestones behind and check out twenty-century Mostar. A quick walk in any direction you will find yourself outside of the day-trippers tourist zone. Twenty years past, the damage from the war is still readily apparent as mortar and bullet holes pockmark buildings and the once-famous Hotel Neretva sits condemned — a testament to the lethality and brutality of war. Much of the modern — and tragic — history of Mostar and, by extent Bosnia and Herzegovina, is on display in the nearby neighborhoods. Walking down the former frontline along the Bulevar Narodne Revolucije or checking out the former Sniper’s tower introduces travellers into the terror of urban warfare. The sense of timeless distance you have in the old town melts away and you realize people live here; that people lived — and died — here during the war. It is hard to reconcile with the happy shopkeepers, tourists, and restaurateurs milling about just a few hundred meters away. It is this odd juxtaposition, though, that makes Mostar such a unique destination. Like other iconic cities and towns of the twentieth century — Berlin, Bastogne, Gdansk — Mostar is symbolic of the turbulent events that engulfed its country.
Despite the many wonders within Mostar, the plethora of daytrips available to the visitor practically demands one spend at least a day exploring the surrounding countryside. In the nearby village of Blagaj, religion and nature intertwine to form a serene and spiritual afternoon. A twenty minutes drive from central Mostar, Blagaj is noteworthy for its beautiful natural scenery and 17th century Dervish Monastery — Blagaj Tejika. The Monastery offers a simple, but enchanting tour through the building giving the visitor a glimpse into the lives of the Dervish practitioners. Partially embedded in a rock cliff, the monastery is situated alongside a cave, with the shimmering, cobalt blue waters of the Buna River emanating from inside, only serving to add to the atmospheric setting. Outside, the Buna River cuts through the village, providing a cool respite during the hot summer days as it flows west to meet up with the Nereteva. A handful of restaurants dot the riverside, taking advantage of the beautifully serene setting, and allowing the patient traveller an opportunity to soak in the calmness. Meanwhile, above the village sits the ruins of the Old Fort of Blagaj, former seat of 15th century Herzegovinian nobleman Stjepan Vukčić.
A little further afield, you have the breathtaking natural wonder of Kravice Waterfalls. This is truly one of those daytrips that threatens to overtake your main destination in your memories and photo collages. A result of the Trebižat River, the falls present a magnificent scene as a dozen or so falls tumble 25 meters into the natural basin below, collecting into a tree-lined swimming hole. A couple of restaurants, scattered picnic tables, and patches of green are casually scattered throughout providing plenty of room and amenities to stretch out for the afternoon and enjoy the blue-green refreshing waters. For the more adventurous, you can climb the rocks, duck behind the falls, and jump from various points. Regardless of your activity level, you’re bound to enjoy the breathtaking views and cool breeze generated by the falling waters.
The pilgrimage site of Medjugorje — the largest tourist site in Bosnia and Herzegovina — provides yet another interesting and accessible day trip from Mostar and is easily combined with the aforementioned trips. The sites of a series of Marian apparitions in the early 1980s, the hills that ring Medjugorje have since become an unofficial Catholic shrine. For the secular traveller, the town itself is rather undistinguished, lined with endless tourist shops largely catering to the influx of worshippers; however, the hike to the top of Podbrdo Hill — Apparition Hill — along the steep and rocky path provides fantastic views of the surrounding countryside. Likewise, there is the hike to Mount Križevac — Cross Mountain — affording fantastic views of the surrounding region and a good hiking opportunity.
Whether you come for the culture, the history, or the nature, allow yourself a few days to enjoy Mostar and the surrounding region.
