The Stories of Three Skirts

In principle, skirts are simple: a piece of cloth wrapped around the lower body. However, as fashion has evolved, skirts have become one of the most complex articles of clothing. We’ve explored the origins of some of our favourite skirt styles to bring you The Stories of Three Skirts.

RUFFLED OR LAYERS SKIRTS

In the 1850s, booming prosperity in Europe prompted a major complication in world of dresses and skirts. The number of petticoats placed beneath the skirt multiplied. The weight this added created considerable discomfort. In turn, dressmakers developed the ‘crinoline’, a rigid structure that supports the skirt.

The biggest promoter and diffuser in Europe of crinolines was the Empress ‘Eugenia de Montijo’ during the Second French Empire. Adopted in Spain during the reign of Isabel II, crinolines supplanted the previously popular ‘tontillo’ or ‘ahuecador’, which were also used to create space underneath skirts.

While crinolines are now regarded as a curiosity, the ruffled, layered style of skirts from that era has been preserved. Take, for example, the recently launched Dolce & Gabbana collection. And while many view this style as distinctly Spanish, few realise its broader European heritage.

PENCIL SKIRTS

As with many classic looks, the Pencil Skirt was originated by designer Christian Dior. Claiming it was inspired by a skirt her mother wore in 1900, the look captured the romanticism of the 40s and 50s at its peak. In post-war Europe and the US, the look enabled a new, distinctly feminine look to take centre stage.

KILTS

Also known as Scottish Skirts, kilts have an ancient history influenced by the clothes of the Normans and Vikings in the eighth century when they conquered the British Isles.

From the Danish ‘Kilte’ and the Old Norse ‘Kjilt’, the word kilt refers to the folded, layered fabric. An important touchstone of Scottish pride, kilts today are worn by men from the Scottish regimens of the British military, to formal occasions like weddings. However, in contemporary fashion, the fabric, known as ‘tartan’, has had a more enduring influence than the folded fabric.

Contemporary fashion designers continue to be inspired by the traditional kilt and tartans for men, women and children.

Designer Vivienne Westwood is characterised by using the plaid regularly. Other famous examples include the Working Process between artist Nick Waplington (b. 1965) and the acclaimed fashion designer Alexander McQueen (1969–2010) now on exhibition at the Tate Britain in London.

While much of fashion is intertwined with history, we love the stories these styles of skirt have to tell.