Chinese traditional costume — Costume of the Six Dynasties

HanfuClub
5 min readAug 10, 2021
  1. Qin dynasty

The Qin dynasty Hanfu mainly inherited the influence of the previous dynasties, and still took the robe as the typical dress style, which was divided into two types: the quju(曲裾) and the zhiju(直裾), and the sleeves were also in two styles: the length and short. Qin Shi Huang believe that the “soil to get the world, advocating black”. Qin Shi Huang waste traditional costume of Zhou dynasty ,The colors of the concubines were mainly to meet the personal preferences of Emperor Qin Shi Huang and were basically dominated by the five elements. In the Qin Dynasty, there was little difference between men and women in the shape and form of clothes in their daily life. Both had large sleeves and narrow sleeves. The difference was that men had leather belts around the waist and had hooks at the ends. Women are tied with ribbons around their waists.

2.Han dynasty costume

Classify:shang yi xia shang “上衣下裳”,shenyi“深衣”,ruqun“襦裙”.

Basic feature:jiaoling “交领”,youren“右衽”,jidai“系带”,kuanxiu“宽袖”.

The shenyi is tight and narrow all over the body. It is long and can be dragged to the ground. The hem is usually trumpet-shaped and does not expose the feet. The sleeves are wide and narrow, the cuffs are mostly edged, and the collar part is very distinctive, usually with a cross collar, the collar is low, so as to reveal the undercoat. This kind of clothing can be worn by both men and women, is the most common and popular one of women’s clothing.

3.Tang dynasty costume

Tang dynasty:It was the heyday of China’s feudal society, and the flower. pattern was widely used in handicraft decoration since the Tang Dynasty.

Features: lively and free, density symmetry, plump and mellow.

Tang Dynasty clothing mainly refers to the Tang Dynasty Hanfu. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of China’s feudal society. Both people’s thought and material production reached the peak of history. Since the Tang Dynasty, flower patterns were widely used in craft decoration, with lively and free composition, well-balanced density and fullness. Especially when the continuous wavy pattern was combined with flowers and flowers, it was the tangled branches pattern that prevailed in the Tang Dynasty. The costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty changed the previous creation idea of divine gift, and painted with real flowers, grass, fish and insects. However, the traditional dragon and phoenix patterns were not excluded, which was also determined by the influence of divine authority of the emperor. At this time, the design of dress patterns tended to express the artistic style of freedom, fullness and fatness.

4.Song dynasty costume

Features:simplicity

Clothing of the Song Dynasty generally refers to the popular clothing of the Song Dynasty, including the popular clothing of the Northern and southern Song Dynasties. It is a pearl in the development of clothing history, characterized by cultivating one’s morality and fitting one’s body. In the Song Dynasty, no matter the royal relatives of the powerful and noble, or the general people, are popular with a straight collar“直领”, a kind of duijin
There were three kinds of clothing in the Song Dynasty: one was the “public clothing” used by the empress, concubines and all levels of life women; the other was the “ceremonial clothing” used by the common people. One is daily clothing . Most of the official clothing of the Song Dynasty was inherited from the early Tang dynasty

5.Ming dynasty costume

Features:With the front button as one of the main fasteners

Shape: represented by the scarf round collar

System: Han tradition

The Ming Dynasty costume is to indicate the clothing of the dynasty, specifically refers to this period of hanfu, that is, the Ming Dynasty hanfu. Zhu Yuanzhang, the emperor taizu of the Ming Dynasty, reformulated the costume system in accordance with the tradition of the Han nationality.
In the later period, the style of standing collar appeared, and a large number of use of buttons in a conspicuous place of a dress. It was gradually banned during the Qing Dynasty, but a few styles and features remained in circulation until 2021.
In The Ming Dynasty, buttons were widely used, mainly on ceremonial clothes, but rarely used in regular clothes. It became popular in the late Ming Dynasty. After entering the customs, buttons began to be widely used and became an essential part of clothes making. Folk buttons were influenced by the armour of the eight Banners, and also by the import of foreign goods, so they were gradually widely used in the collar and lapels of clothes. Before the Ming Dynasty, collars were mostly pair collars and round collars.

6.Qing dynasty costume

The Rulers of the Qing Dynasty abolished all the Ming costumes, but the Manchu costumes absorbed the textures and patterns of the Ming costumes. In Ming Dynasty, men all wear hair in a bun, loose clothes, stockings and shoes. In qing Dynasty, the hair was shaved and the braids were hung down behind the head, and thin archery with horseshoe sleeves, tight socks and deep boots were worn. But the official and civilian costumes are entirely distinct. The Qing Dynasty was a regime dominated by manchu rulers, and manchu eight banners rushed into the customs with the change of dynasties. The customs of the flag people influenced the vast central Plains. Gradually from the official service to the regular service. Since the button was used in the Qing Dynasty, the shape of the collar began to change obviously. Appeared before the Qing Dynasty never had the edge of the skirt is not exposed, the inner shirt is also different from before, big inlay and big roll of the process edge is not general, so the cutting and sewing technology has higher requirements.

The article is reprinted from HanfuClub

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