Traditional culture | The change of Chinese traditional costumes
Qin and han dynasties
Wearing a large sleeve dress, under the long skirt, wearing high silk clogs, this is the qin and Han period women’s clothing more common style.”Short at the top and long at the bottom”, the skirt of the jacket only reaches to the chest and is narrow, but the sleeves are still wide, which is called “narrow coat with big sleeves”.The skirts were long enough to reach the ground, especially the skirts of noble women were longer, and they were even carried by two maidservants when walking.
In the pre-Qin period, the clothes were mainly Shenyi.Zhiju and Quju are not only men’s clothing, but also women’s clothing common types.Ruqun and so on.
Wei jin Southern and Northern Dynasties
In wei and Jin dynasties, clothing was generally larger and looser.The costume inherits the customs of the Qin and Han dynasties, and absorbs the characteristics of the costumes of ethnic minorities, and improves on the traditional basis.
In the Wei and Jin dynasties, women had to attach overlapping triangular decorative cloth at the bottom of their deep clothes, and tie their skirts around their waists, from which many long ribbons stretched out.With the use of soft and flowing silk materials, these two decorations give the woman a sense of movement and rhythm as she moves.Later, these two kinds of decoration gradually merged into one, and this is the shape of the mixed hemline dress.Miscellaneous train hang clothes make the woman of Wei jin full of clever, elegant temperament.
In the Southern and Northern Dynasties, it was mainly loose. Its characteristics were: opposite the lapel, girding the waist, wide sleeves, and decorated with different colors on the cuffs, lapel and hem.
The Sui dynasty
During the Sui Dynasty, a high-waisted long skirt with small sleeves was tied above the chest.A popular style of dress for women is the long, high-waisted skirt with small sleeves that is tied above the chest.For example, in Cave 390 of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, the sui women went to the altar. The lady wore a large-sleeved dress, and wore robes of rank or small-sleeved dress. This kind of dress was seen as early as in the buddhist story paintings in Dunhuang since the Northern Wei Dynasty, but the men wore small sleeves in the underwear and large sleeves in the coat.The sleeve size is the opposite of the sui Dynasty ladies’ clothing.
The Tang suit is the Han costume made in the Tang Dynasty.One is traditional Ruqun, which were generally popular during the early Tang Dynasty and largely followed the traditional Ru and dress worn by Chinese women since the Eastern Han Dynasty.
Women in the Tang Dynasty were very popular Ru this matching dress, Ru in small jacket, collar shape different, varied, such as chicken heart collar, round collar, square collar, diagonal collar and so on.In the high Tang Dynasty, a kind of topless collar was popular, in which no underwear was worn inside and the whole front was exposed to show the cleavage of women’s chest.
The song dynasty
During the Song Dynasty, aristocratic women began to practice foot binding.Similar to that worn by noble women in the late Tang dynasty and the Five Dynasties, but the casual clothes of noble women in the Song Dynasty were thin and long, and the color matching of the clothes also broke the habit of red and purple, blue and green, and used pink and purple, violet, green onion, silver gray, aloes and other colors to make the tone very bright.
Average civilian women, especially working women or menservants, still wore narrow-sleeved Ru, but thinner and longer than those in the late Tang dynasty and the Five Dynasties, and the colors were mostly blue and white.
The yuan dynasty
This is inherited from the Han nationality and both Mongolian characteristics of clothing.Mongolian women wear a very distinctive ancient crown, and then adorn it with green flowers and pearls. In the top of the crown of high status, pheasant hair is inserted to make it flutter and flutter, which makes it very lively.The ancient crown was matched by a long robe, a loose and bulky robe of Mongolian noble women with large sleeves but narrow sleeves, and a long dress that swept the floor.
In the Ming dynasty
Upper skirt and lower skirt dress form, and the Tang and Song period skirt no difference.The color is still light, although ornamented, but not obvious.To chongzhen early years, skirt is plain white, even if the embroidery pattern, also only in the skirt below one, two inch parts compose with a lace, as a presser foot.At the beginning of the skirt for six, later skirt began to use eight, waist pleats dozens, the line is often like water lines.By the end of the Ming Dynasty, skirts were more and more decorated, and the number of skirts increased to ten. The pleats around the waist became more and more dense, and each pleat had a color. The color was very pure and elegant, and when the breeze blew, the color was like a moon, so it was called “moon skirt”.
In addition, there are silks cut into regular size stripes, each embroidered with flowers and birds, the other side of the gold thread, called the phoenix tail skirt;There is also a whole forged to thin, called pleated skirt.Ming Dynasty period, button is used in large quantities, material has metal, jade to wait.The button-down gown was a common dress for women in Ming Dynasty.
In the qing dynasty
During the Qing Dynasty, the Manchus tried unsuccessfully to ban foot binding.At first, some women’s clothing color style is very deep, women are put up hair into a bun, so that it appears more gentle and virtuous.
Ordinary women wear cloaks, jackets and skirts.The cloak was a woman’s coat in the Qing Dynasty. It was made of double sleeves and knee length.Above the cloak, there is a low collar, embellished with various jewelry.The inside of the cloak, and the big skirt, big coat, small coat, small coat is women’s underwear, the color is mostly red, peach, water red and so on.The lower skirts of women are mostly skirts, the color of which is expensive in red.The style of skirt, the early preserved the Customs of the Ming Dynasty, there are phoenix skirt and moon skirt, etc.In the late Qing Dynasty, it was popular to wear trousers among ordinary women.
Qing Dynasty period, later the color is more pure and fresh quietly elegant, and this period of women’s hair style hair ornaments are not in the right ear, changed the previous women’s hair ornaments.
Republic of China: This period, cheongsam — from the Manchu women’s traditional clothing, was accepted by the Han people.After the Republic of China, the clothes are mainly simple and highlight the figure.
Republic of China: The clothing of this period is not as complicated as before, but simple, gentle and lovely
Republic of China: This period, cheongsam began to improve.China officially abolished the bad habit of foot binding.
Republic of China: During this period, more attention was paid to the embodiment of women’s body, which reflected the liberation of society and women from the side.Cheongsam Outlines the curves of a woman’s figure.The lower body becomes tight, reflecting women’s enchanting appearance.The ancient costumes with various verve and the costume culture with a long history have constructed a colorful picture of ancient life.Clothing culture has a long history, especially women’s clothing is complex and diverse, with the change of The Times and continuous improvement and development, but also can reflect the five thousand years of Chinese history.”One muscle and one appearance” shows the Beauty of China.
From HanfuClub
