The 38,000 forgotten women of Varanasi, India’s city of widows

Elderly widows wait for a medical check-up organised by Sulabh International at a widow’s care centre in Varanasi(Getty)

By @Lyd_Carolina

Varanasi, one of Hinduism’s seven holy cities, is a colourful and cultural hub of northern India. Most visitors agree the ancient city on the banks of the River Ganges is magical. Yet the city harbours a darker secret — it is home to 38,000 widowed women, a marginalised and forgotten population of which the majority live in poverty. Abandoned in the city and shunned by society, many seek refuge in the different ashrams for widows.

“Varanasi is known as the City of Widows,” says Lord Raj Loomba, a member of the British House of Lords and the founder of the Loomba Foundation, which aims to promote the economic empowerment and welfare of disadvantaged widows and their children. Ten years ago today (23 June), the United Nations officially recognised International Widows’ Day, launched by Loomba in 2005.

“When widows are thrown out of their households, they come to Varanasi because it is a holy city. It is the favourite city of the Hindu deity Lord Shiva, and they believe that if they die there they will go straight to heaven. Widows call it moksha — when the final release from reincarnation is gained.”

A significant proportion of the widows in Varanasi — around 12,000 — are aged between 20 and 45. Poverty and disease, including HIV infection, are some of the main reasons young women are being widowed at such a young age. But cultural practices, namely child marriage, are a major driving force behind the problem in India.

“Girls are often married at an early age, sometimes as teenagers to much older men. When the men die, the women are left as widows,” Loomba says. The country has the highest number of child brides in the world. Although fewer girls are marrying before the age of 15, rates of marriageamong those aged 15 to 18 have increased to 29.2%. Uttar Pradesh, the most populous state in India, also has the most married children — around 2.8 million according to census figures. Poverty, dowries, gender expectation, tradition and a lack of education opportunities for girls are behind the numbers.

A 40-year-old widow sits outside her shop in Varanasi in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh(Getty)

Poverty is killing men, contributing to the young age of Varanasi’s widows, Loomba says. “Men often have to work in unconventional environments, in factories or on roads where the temperature can reach 45 degrees centigrade, so they die at an early age.

“Not only do women normally live longer than men, HIV is killing many. All these reasons mean there are more widows than widowers.”

Six years after the foundation began in India, Loomba’s research showed the problem was global. There are estimated to be 258 million widows worldwide, a 9% increase since 2010. Of these women, 14.8% live in extreme poverty — their basic needs go unmet. Without their husbands, widows are removed from visibility and discarded as social outcasts. They not only face discrimination as women but are left vulnerable to rape, murder, physical violence, prostitution, trafficking, forced labour and eviction.

In Varanasi, and other northern holy cities such as Vrindavan, widows are expected to relinquish all pleasure in life. Holi, the festival of colours, is one of the largest Hindu holidays celebrated across India. Yet orthodox traditions forbid widows from taking part. In parts of the country, however, women are reclaiming their right to celebrate Holi. In 2013, the NGO Sulabh International organised three days of festivities in Varanasi and Vrindavan, to include widows in mainstream society and reduce social stigma.

By providing widows with training and education, the Loomba Foundation hopes to empower women and their families to overcome poverty in the long-term. Of the younger Varanasi widows, the charity plans to speak to 5,000 to assess what kind of job they would like.

“We will speak to each and every one of them and ask what field of work they are interested in,” Loomba says. “There are quite a few areas where widows don’t have to have graduated from university or college but they can learn the basics of a trade and find a job.”

A Nepali woman rests inside a widows home in Varanasi(Reuters)

“We have a sewing machine project where we train people to make garments and then give them a machine so they can start a business or make money, but we also train women to use computers or teach them English, as well as hair and beauty training to work in salons.”

Rashida was 39 when her husband died in 2008. She was the only breadwinner for her seven family members, five of which were her children. With no money, she couldn’t feed her children or send them to school, as she was barely earning a dollar a day. She had no help from relatives and her in-laws abandoned her, forcing her son to give up school to help her earn more money. In 2012, Rashida was given a sewing machine and training and she now earns around 3,000 rupees (£30, $47) a month.

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