Sevilla! Or is it Seville?
Sevilla is magical and a beautiful city. This week we took my friend who is visiting from the US (which is why I’m a day late publishing this week… apologies). We wanted to show her more of Spain than the Valencia area where we live. Eric and I visited Sevilla in 2019 and were thrilled to go back.
First… is it Sevilla or Seville? You’ll actually find both spellings scattered around the city. In Spanish, the name of this city is spelled Sevilla (the ending pronounced the same as quesadilla), but in English it’s spelled Seville (the ending pronounced the same as Brazil). Many place names are spelled/pronounced differently in other countries, especially English-speaking countries. Sevilla is just one of them (e.g., Lisbon/Lisboa, Venice/Venezia, Rome/Roma).
A few modern facts
Sevilla is the capital of the Autonomous Community of Andalucia, the largest city in that Community, and the fourth largest city in Spain (population 700,000).
We stayed in and focused our time on the historic district, which is 4 square km (2 square miles). It contains three UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the Alcázar palace complex, the Cathedral, and the General Archive of the Indies. The Sevilla harbor, located about 80 km (50 miles) from the Atlantic Ocean, is the only river port in Spain.
And a bit of history
Known as Ishbiliyah after the Islamic conquest in 711, Sevilla became the center of the independent Taifa of Sevilla following the collapse of the Caliphate of Córdoba in the early 11th century. It was later ruled by Almoravids and Almohads until its incorporation to the Crown of Castile in 1248. Thanks to its role as the gateway of the Spanish Empire’s trans-atlantic trade, Sevilla became one of largest cities in Western Europe in the 16th century.
Sevilla was originally an Iberian town. It flourished in the 2nd century BCE under the Romans (when it was called Hispalis). In the early 5th century CE, the Silingi Vandals made it the seat of their kingdom, but in 461 it passed under Visigothic rule.
In 711 the town fell to the Muslims, and under their rule Ishbiliyah, as it was then called, flourished. It became a leading cultural and commercial center under the ʿAbbādid dynasty and the subsequent Almoravid and Almohad confederations. As the Almohad capital in the 12th century, Sevilla enjoyed great prosperity and ambitious building programs. But after the Muslim possession of Sevilla was ended in 1248 by Spanish Christians under Ferdinand III, the substantial Moorish and Jewish minorities were driven into exile, and the local economy temporarily fell into ruin.
The Spanish discovery of the Americas brought new prosperity to the city. Sevilla became the center of the exploration and exploitation of America through the Casa de Contratación (House of Trade), which was established there in 1503 to regulate commerce between Spain and the New World. For two centuries Sevilla held a dominant position in Spain’s New World commerce. It was the site of the chief mint for gold and silver from the Americas, and many Spanish emigrants to the New World sailed from its port.
Sevilla was the richest and most populous city in Spain in the 16th century, with 150,000 inhabitants in 1588. This brilliance couldn’t last because Sevilla’s prosperity was based almost entirely on the exploitation of the colonies rather than on local industry and trade. As a result, Sevilla’s economy declined in the 17th century, though its cultural life underwent a great flowering at that time.
In the 18th century Spain’s Bourbon rulers stimulated a limited economic revival in the city, but in the 19th century the French invasion, revolutions, and civil war halted that progress. In 1847 the April Fair, an annual gala following Easter, was established. The Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 initiated a new renaissance in Sevilla. During the 20th century the port was enlarged, and the city revived as an industrial and commercial centre. Today it is one of Spain’s most popular tourist destinations.
The draw of Sevilla’s architecture
One of the things we love about Sevilla is the wide variety of architectural styles. The combination of Moorish and Venetian influences also make Sevilla a popular location for film and television settings. Parts of the city show up in Star Wars Episode 2: Attack of the Clones, Lawrence of Arabia, Game of Thrones, and more. Then there are historical depictions in the arts: The Barber of Seville and Carmen are just two of over 100 operas that have been set here.
This article could be thousands of words and hundreds of pictures long, but I’m going to focus on just four of the many sites worth visiting:
• Metropol Parasol
We knew almost nothing about the Metropol Parasol the first time we visited. We were dumb-struck when we rounded the corner and saw it. The Metropol Parasol, popularly known as the Setas de la Encarnación or Incarnations of mushrooms is the largest wooden structure in the world. It was designed by architect Jurgen Meyer in 2011 and consists of six parasols in the form of giant mushrooms, the tallest of which reaches nearly 250 ft in height.
In addition to the incredible view of the structure itself, visiting the top offers stunning views of the city. We found it the perfect place to catch the sunset.
• The Real Alcázar de Sevilla
The Real Alcázar de Sevilla, historically known as al-Qasr al-Muriq and commonly known as the Alcázar of Sevilla, is a royal palace and one of the most historic locations in the city. The term Alcázar comes from the Arabic al-qaṣr, (“the castle” or “the palace”, اَلْقَصْر), itself derived from the Latin castrum (“castle”). It’s a busy site, so I highly recommend booking tickets online ahead of time. We spent several hours wandering the many rooms and expansive grounds. And we still didn’t see everything!
During the five hundred years of construction, various architectural styles succeeded one another. The palace is known for its tile decoration. Pretty much every available space is covered with gorgeous tile. What isn’t covered with tile is intricately carved stone or wood, some with remnants of the bright colors that once filled the carved spaces. There are also murals thrown in for good measure.
The outdoor space for the Alcázar features acres of gardens, courtyards, and ornamental pools. It’s stunning today. I can only imagine how breathtaking it was in its heyday. It was raining the day we went with Melissa, but probably helped keep the crowds down and let us enjoy the views.
• Catedral de Sevilla
The Catedral de Santa María de la Sede (Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Sea) is a 16th century Roman Catholic church and the largest cathedral in the world.
The cathedral was constructed on the site of a former mosque that had been built by the Moors who conquered the Iberian peninsula from the 8th century onwards. With such a far-reaching history, the cathedral bears the style and influence of the Baroque period, Renaissance, and Neo-gothic art and architecture.
One of the original Muslim architectural features that was preserved and incorporated into the construction of the cathedral is the Giralda minaret (a large tower-like structure used for the call to prayer), which was converted into the bell tower.
If you are used to the every-square-inch-is-decorated cathedrals in Czechia and Italy, you might find this building a bit plain by comparison. It has other things that make it impressive, such as the doors, altars, pipe organ, stained glass windows, and the massive columns that support the stadium-sized indoor space.
One of the cathedral’s special claims to fame is the tomb of Christoper Columbus (he was tiny!).
• Plaza de España
The Plaza de España was designed by the architect Aníbal González and built between 1914 and 1929 as one of the main constructions of the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. It’s the largest building built in the city during the 20th century. Today it houses the sub-delegation of the Spanish government. We wandered the large area then sat on a step feeding some pigeons to rest our feet and people-watch.
The building is semi-elliptical (“C” shaped) and is 170 meters (557 feet) in diameter. It’s bordered by a canal that runs 515 meters (1690 feet) and is crossed by four bridges. You can even rent a small boat and paddle the canal.
The building is made of exposed brick and is heavily adorned with gorgeous, hand-painted ceramic decoration.
The expansive courtyard features a black and white stone mosaic pattern and a fountain designed by Vicente Traver.
Flamenco
Flamenco dance is expressive, involving footwork, clapping, and expressive body movements to the lively musical style. The unique dance is an integral part of Sevilla’s history, although its own history is a bit murky. Some believe it originated with the fifteenth-century arrival of the gypsies to the Cadiz countryside of Jerez and Sevilla. Others say its origin is from Moorish Spain, as the modulations and melodies that characterize flamenco may come from the Arabic monochord songs.
Regardless, the Andalusia region is the origin and center of flamenco, and Sevilla holds a special position in its evolution and preservation. The Museo del Baile Flamenco (Museum of Flamenco Dance) features multiple exhibits about the history of this unique dance style as well as presenting two shows a day. Flamenco isn’t strictly housed in the museum. Many restaurants and small venues offer flamenco shows. It’s even common to find dancers in parks around the city.
Sevilla’s secret motto
Scattered discretely around the city you’ll find the code NO8DO. It’s used in official publications and is inscribed on walls, statues, light poles, park benches, and even utility/manhole covers.
NO8DO is one of the oldest legends in Sevilla. It’s a phonetic symbol for no me ha dejado in Spanish, which means “She has not abandoned me.” There is no historical certainty for the motto’s origin, but legend has it that King Alfonso X gave it to the city of Sevilla, whose inhabitants were loyal to the leader even when his son attempted to usurp the throne.
Eric and I didn’t know about the motto when we visited in 2019. This time, we had a lot of fun looking for this “secret code” as we wandered the historic areas of the city.
My final thoughts on Sevilla
Sevilla is a magical destination for so many reasons, and I was thrilled to both return and to introduce my friend to it. The gorgeous and varied architecture, expansive history, and rich heritage and culture make Sevilla a perfect destination.
If you ever get a chance, spend a few days there. Have a rest in one of the many plazas. Sip a vino tinto (red wine) at a sidewalk cafe. Walk the narrow streets, squeezing against the wall when the occasional car dares to navigate through. And remember to look up at the beautiful buildings that are literally everywhere.
Here are a few final pictures from our trip.
