Emily in Chisinau: An American’s Perspective Living in Chisinau, Moldova
A small country with a big heart.
(Disclaimer: My views do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Peace Corps or the U.S. government.)
Life has brought me to The Republic of Moldova! Actually, life has brought me back to Moldova. I lived here from 2012–2014, and coming back was an unexpected yet welcome surprise. During my time here, I’ll be working with a local NGO that provides social support services to Moldovan families and Ukrainian refugees.
I’ll be using this platform mainly to talk about my experiences in Chisinau, Moldova’s vibrant capital city. For those who don’t know, Moldova borders Ukraine in three directions — north, east, and south — and shares a border with Romania in the west. Sandwiched between the northeastern border of Moldova and Ukraine is the breakaway region of Transnistria, a territory officially unrecognized by the United States.
While the average Westerner may be most familiar with Moldova as it concerns Transnistria’s influence on the war in Ukraine, Chisinau is a bustling city full of potential: take a stroll through Stephan Cel Mare Park (one of several public parks), then treat yourself to an evening at the Opera House; spend an afternoon shopping at one of the various pieţele (open-air markets), then dine out at a local restaurant. There is always something interesting to do in this city!
Lost in Translation
A note about culture shock: if you didn’t notice the catchy double entendre of the title of this piece, Emily in Paris is a popular Netflix show about an American woman, Emily Cooper, who has a career in marketing luxury goods in the United States. By a twist of fate, she finds herself moving to Paris for a year to bring an “American perspective” to a high-end French company’s marketing division. The show is a coming-of-age story as much as it is a glimpse into the life of someone learning to live in a foreign country. What makes the show so endearing, arguably, is witnessing Emily’s initial culture shock and consequent assimilation into the culture of Paris.
While France and Moldova may seem to be worlds apart, many cultural assimilation themes are universal, such as personal conduct, fashion, language, and cuisine.
One thing that France and Moldova do have in common is their wineries! In fact, the wineries in Moldova are perhaps one of the best-kept secrets of Eastern Europe! The largest wine cellar in the world, Mileştii Mici, just so happens to be in Moldova. Other notable wineries include Cricova Winery (the second-largest wine cellar in Moldova), Castle Mimi Wine Resort, Brănești Wine Cellars, and many more.
In this spirit, each year there is a wine festival that features local wine producers from around the country. This year’s wine festival featured a record 60 wine producers.
A Household Affair
Above and beyond wineries, wine-making is a household tradition in Moldova. Moldova’s economy is largely agricultural which provides for the perfect conditions to grow grain, fruits, and vegetables. Many homes in rural areas either have backyard vineyards, or have access to a vineyard, where they harvest and hand-pick grapes, then ferment, press, and bottle their own wine. This is a source of pride for the household. The wine is a literal representation of the fruits of their labor (pun intended!). Sharing their homemade wine with guests is a symbolic gesture of hospitality.
I have found memories of helping my host family pick grapes and grind them for fermentation:
Wine making is just one of the many aspects of Moldova’s unique culture. The country is home to multiple ethnic groups, so there is a diverse range of food, music, art, events, and other traditions constantly happening. I look forward to exploring this area more and sharing my experiences with you!
