Seoul Searching
getting lost (and found) in South Korea
One of the biggest perks of living in a transportation hub as busy and centrally located as Bangkok is the ease of travel. If I asked many of my co-workers where any of their extra money is invested, it is definitely spent on week-long vacations throughout Asia, or even weekend getaways. From Bangkok, cheap flights to Laos, Cambodia, one of Thailand’s stunning islands, and Singapore are often planned for long weekends.
For our school year’s first longer holiday I visited South Korea. During this trip I was going to be spending a lot of my travel time alone, or with people I’d just met. For some, the idea of visiting a new place alone, especially on vacation, can seem daunting and even boring. The most solo-travelling I had done was to visit family, and even then, they were never too far away from home. I had some worries about this trip; mainly that I had procrastinated till no end and didn’t have an itinerary past landing at the airport in Seoul. Also, I’m terribly awkward at asking for directions, which is further complicated by my poor map-reading and tendency to get lost. But, it was for these reasons that I knew I had to travel alone. After three months of settling in in Bangkok, I was ready to feel uncomfortable again. I was lucky to have Rob waiting for me in Seoul and offering his place for a few nights in Daegu. It was comforting to see an old friend, and didn’t hurt that he speaks Korean quite well, and is overall more spatially aware than I am.
South Korea (at least what I saw in Seoul, Daegu, and Busan) is a vibrant and increasingly modern country. Their metro and transportation lines are fast and efficient (while simultaneously being huge and overwhelming), the natural views are breathtaking, and the people are well-groomed and kind. Oh, and don’t even get me started on the food — I love pad thai as much as the next person, but having flame-grilled bulgogi and samgyupsal, mandu and kimbab, and bubbling stone bowls of soup was a welcome change. Despite knowing little of the language and culture, I felt safe and welcome in the country. The nightlife is vibrant and lasts until 7am when the final stragglers head home from the clubs. There are large ex-patriot, backpacker and military communities that add to the otherwise homogeneous, but friendly, Korean population. As a relatively green solo-traveller, I learned a lot moving along from stop to stop and city to city. Below I offer a few findings and experiences from my trip that I hope will inspire me to continue exploring, and maybe even help you out, too.
1. Talk to people.
Okay, I know this sounds super obvious, but it can be intimidating to chat up new people, especially locals who may not speak much English or are not as comfortable with or fond of foreigners. (Side note: I found that Canadians were well received by both locals and travellers alike.) Growing up, I was told not to talk to or accept offers from strangers. However, on this trip I found that strangers were often the largest source of kindness and comfort.
On a sold-out train from Seoul to Daegu, Rob and I were crammed in the “standing section” of our train car. It was already late and Rob had to teach in the morning, so we opted to stand rather than wait for the next train. I slouched against the window and changed the time of my phone two hours ahead as to spawn more Candy Crush lives. An older Korean gentleman offered me his seat (there were two in this area that folded up against a small section of wall), and despite my incessant insisting that he remain seated, I sat. He lived and worked in Korea running an English academy, and was headed back to Daegu from a trip to Manila. We talked about education, about travel, and about Korean culture. We talked for the entire 1 hour 40 minute train ride. Upon our arrival in Daegu he offered Rob and I a ride to the monorail, but we opted to take the bus instead. When we parted ways, he and I embraced and I felt him slip a piece of paper into my hand. I figured it was his card in case I got lost in Daegu. A quick glance into my palm shocked me as I picked up the two gold bills. This complete stranger had given me 100 000 won (~$100 USD). “Take yourselves out to dinner.”
Hostels are another great place to meet and interact with new people. My favourite part about hostels is that they are likely filled with others who are just as adventurous, curious, and open-minded as you are. During my travels, the individuals I have met at hostels have been from all over the world from varying walks of life, and I am always so amazed at how a sense of wanderlust happens to bring us all together. There seems to be a traveller philosophy or mindset that connects people who meet in a foreign place. Take advantage of this. I went from being a solo-traveller to having a group of people who I could confide in and who I could explore/go out with.
2. Immerse yourself in the culture.
When travelling to places that are very different from what you are used to or comfortable with, it can be easy to retreat to the familiar. Staying at the nearest Hilton, having McDonald’s hamburgers for every meal because “what is that red stuff?” and “that smells different” can really take away opportunities to explore and learn new things both about the country and about yourself. Although I completely understand being attached to certain comforts of home (I am guilty of grabbing the good ol’ American burger once in a while), if I wanted to live like a Toronto girl, I would still be living in Toronto. One of my favourite parts about travelling is being exposed to new sensations. The sights, smells, sounds, and tastes of a new city bring with them a new understanding and appreciation about our world.
The Jalgachi Fish Market is one of the world’s largest fresh fish markets in the world. Located in Busan, the catch is lifted right out of the ocean and is often still swimming when you buy it. There were a bunch of fish that I had never seen before, including a rather phallic shaped (sea cucumber??) pink creature that an ajima (older woman) jokingly squeezed water out of like a fountain. The vendors are enthusiastic about their produce, and eagerly provide samples of their offerings. I had never eaten sushi so fresh, clean, and definitely noticed the difference in quality from the frozen and then thawed salmon that I am used to getting in Toronto.
Michelle and I decided to jump right in and partake in a Korean delight — raw octopus. The vendor pulled a small octopus out of a tank and we watched as she wrestled to get its suction cup tentacles off her bright yellow rubber gloves. I gulped and started to sweat a little as she chopped the head off the creature, tentacles still squirming, added a touch of salt and some sesame oil, and passed us each a pair of chopsticks.
“Be sure to chew it really well,” Michelle told me, as I picked up a still writhing piece of octopus, “It sticks to your tongue and throat”. I had already taken a video of her taking the first bite. Now, I am a fan of farm to table food, and of having a general idea of where your food comes from, but I had really never been this close — even when I go fishing I never really eat my catch (don’t worry though, my dad does). The octopus was salty and briny like the water it was just pulled from, and had a chewy consistency. I chewed the piece of octopus gum until it was macerated beyond being a choking hazard. Although I only managed to stomach a few bites before I insisted that I could still feel the tentacles wiggling around in my tummy, I am glad that I partook in the culinary experience.
Cultural experiences for me also involve learning as much as I can about the location’s history. From my conversation with the man on the train I realized that there was not a lot that I knew about the Korean War, or the causes of the separation between North and South Korea. Initially I had blamed my lack of knowledge on the content being absent from the Canadian history curriculum, but my own ignorance of this area of the world and its history was to blame.
The War Memorial of Korea is a massive building surrounded by the flags of countries that supported the South throughout its development into the nation it is today. I was pleased to see the Canadian flag among other UN and peacekeeping nations. The museum is free for all, and holds floors of artifacts and interactive activities with text in both Korean and English. After the Cold War, Communist ideology from the Soviet Union and China highly influenced the northern part of the country, where those troops had been stationed. The South, being highly influenced by the United States, were immersed more so in the ideas of democracy. When the North invaded the South in 1950, a long and bloody war ensued, supported by allies on each side. From my understanding, the tensions between North and South Korea are far from settled, but have been sedated with a non-aggression pact. This explained why there is still a large US Military presence and the number of military bases in the country. I left with a lot more questions than when I arrived, but with a new interest in exploring the events of the war.
3. Just say YES.
Of course there are situations wherein one should exercise caution and/or one does not feel inclined to participate in an activity (ex. hey, want to try some of these drugs I found on the side of the road?), but otherwise, I have found it advantageous (and more fun) to take the risk and say yes. Saying yes to going to the bar/club/gallery/mall with a new friend. Saying yes to trying a bite of a food you’ve never heard of (but are pretty sure you are not allergic to). Saying yes to doing the activity that is on your bucket list that you are suddenly feeling unprepared for (bungee jumping, helmet diving). Saying yes to meeting that local and/or English teaching tinder match for coffee around the corner. These things can lead to wonderful opportunities, unthinkable relationships, and allow you to form connections with people in ways you hadn’t even thought were possible.
I got lost. It happens to me a lot, and not having WiFi and being useless with a map doesn’t help with that. It was the end of my trip and I had left my hostel in Seoul in search of Hongik University Station to catch the train to the airport (not that I was in a rush — it was noon and my flight didn’t leave for another 9 hours). However, I only had 4000 won on me (~$4 USD) and so I knew that I had to get to the airport before I spent the rest of that money and had to think of another way to get there. I was exhausted from the night before (Koreans really know how to party — and, staying at a place called Time Traveller’s Party Hostel usually means you’ll be out late) and decided to walk back to the hostel to use their WiFi, ask for directions, and hopefully snag a bottle of water.
An older gentleman (Ken B. from North Carolina) walking his two adorable wiener dogs (Freida and Frank) stopped me and asked if I was lost. I told him that I was looking for a way to the airport, but that I wasn’t in a rush. He asked if I wanted to help him walk his dogs and, despite being told not to talk to strangers, I said yes. This dog walking ended into a tour of the area — Ken had lived there for some time now, and an invitation to lunch. Once again I said yes. Ken and I returned to his apartment and then met up with his friend Connie and took us out for sushi (which was AMAZINGLY FRESH and bright and delicious). We later met up with another friend of his, a priest who works in Cambodia, for coffee and conversation. By the time I had checked my watch it was almost 5pm. Ken dropped me off at the station and thankfully paid for my fare to the airport (I was 650 won short, oops).
All in all?
I am grateful for the opportunity to travel as I am constantly learning about myself and the world. This global perspective is something so much more important to me than being able to say “I was there” or “I did that”. I spoke to my photography class a lot about how technology has allowed us to be everywhere without actually being present. So often people are more focused on capturing a great photo that they are removed from the act of just being (I am so guilty of this, too). Just think of being at a concert and seeing the sea of cell phones recording the performance and watching it off of their phone rather than in front of them. Witnessing and participating in the traditional and cultural, interacting with the natural and local, and embracing the uniqueness and difference in customs and norms allows us as humans to form stronger connections with others.
