Should I (Home)Stay or Should I Go Now?
on getting the best bunk for your buck
Why is this sandwich $8? It’s literally just bread and a Kraft Single.
Bangkok’s cheap eats and economical modes of transportation have definitely spoiled me. After 9 months in Thailand, you can imagine my sticker shock upon arriving at Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar, Bali. Only twenty minutes after my arrival into the country I had somehow managed to spend more than I would in Bangkok over three days. I swallowed my pride after an attempt to haggle down from 200 000 rupiah (10 000 rupiah = ~$1CAD) was turned down for the umpteenth time by an impatient Bluebird taxi driver.
Okay, that’s fine. Just get me to my hostel.
Seminyak is a swanky area north of the notorious party beaches of Kuta. Travel bloggers (Lonely Planet’s Bali and Lombok guide included) warned visitors about the shallow and costly nature of this area, but it was close to the airport, and I wasn’t planning on being there for long. I was staying in a capsule hostel, a concept that I was excited about. Each dorm room consisted of cubby-like pods for its inhabitants that were meant to be private and modern, yet functional and affordable. I had just flown in after a late night out in Kuala Lumpur, and after arriving to New Capsule Hostel Seminyak around 10:30pm, I was definitely ready for some shut-eye. The thing with many hostels is that 10:30 is when the party is just getting started. I was greeted by blaring hip hop music and laughter, the clinking of bottles, and a crowd of guys in tank tops chatting up sun-kissed girls around a table. I was offered a drink menu and ordered a large Bintang. So much for sleeping.
hos · tel
noun
an establishment that provides inexpensive food and lodging for a specific group of people, such as students, workers, or travelers.
Being the pro procrastinator and poor planner that I am, I had quickly booked this first bed for three nights based off its 9.1 ranking and overwhelmingly positive reviews on Hostel World. For those unfamiliar with Hostel World, it’s a booking site that allows users to search for, read/write reviews about, and book accommodations that are generally cheaper than hotels and resorts. Similar to booking.com or Agoda, this website/app has become a go-to search engine for me any time I am on the road. The user interface is friendly, the directions to the hostel are generally clear, and the small deposit amounts make it easy and affordable to cancel or change your booking with minimal financial loss. In fact, I have found that the hardest part about navigating this site is having too many choices, and not being able to settle on just one place to stay.
AirBNB is another website which allows property owners to “rent” out their homes to visiting guests for a night up to a couple months. When I was in Vietnam with friends last March-April, we stayed in AirBNBs over our three weeks in Ho Chi Minh City. One was a quaint family-run set of rooms in the local Binh Thanh district, and the other was a gorgeous condo in a high-rise. In both cases, the property owners were keen to make sure we felt safe, knew where the best food/entertainment/nightlife was, and had everything we needed. It was a lovely way to have a comfortable and private, fully-furnished place, especially while we were student-teaching full time. Since these are residential homes, they also provide renters with the opportunity to see or live in an area that is not as open to or frequented by tourists. It’s a great site to consult if you have a bit more money to spend, or are travelling with a larger group or with family, but want a “homier than a hotel” experience. Many listings on AirBNB are BEAUTIFUL (think private villas, modern flats, entire country homes, or even penthouse suites) and well-located, but they, tend to fill up fast, especially in more frequented cities.
For a traveller, the bed makes a huge difference, especially after being jet-lagged and walking around in the sun with a heavy backpack on all day. However, in many cases, the price of the bed makes even more of a difference. I was only on the road for 10 days, but even then, I had a budget that I planned on sticking to, especially in a place where prices are higher than my wallet is used to. As a solo traveller, finding the balance between a social environment that would encourage me to meet people/make friends, sheets that wouldn’t give me bed bugs, and bathrooms I felt clean showering in has become a bit of an obsession. Throughout my Spring/Songkran break, I spent hours browsing places to stay for the next leg of my trip, considering reviews on multiple websites and factoring in price per bed per night, distance from the beaches, the nightlife, and the environment cultivated by the hostel. Here I humbly offer some advice from my travel experiences to help you get the right bunk for your buck:
1. Location, location, location.
Although I am not a huge planner when it comes to trips, I know that more often than not I like to be close to the action, but far enough away that I can sleep early if I want/need to. If I am arriving to my destination late, I prefer to spend that night close to the airport. There is nothing more exhausting than getting off the plane after a long flight only to have to get into a taxi for 2 more hours. In certain parts of the world this taxi ride is dirt cheap, but as you read above, paying $20CAD before exiting the airport for a cab was not my favourite way to start a trip.
On many booking sites, including Hostel World, the distance from the accommodation to the city center can be found next to the listing. Looking to be near the nightlife? Pick one that’s within walking distance of the party scene, or one that IS the party scene (think Blanco Dorm or Ibiza House on Koh Phi Phi). Looking to be as far away from the noise as possible? Do the opposite. This also stands true if you want to be close to the beach, to a specific neighborhood (ex. Little India or Chinatown), or away from the densely populated touristy areas. Long story short, think about the experience you’d like to have, and then do the research. It’s worth it.
I have noticed that many people who visit Bangkok choose to stay near Khao San Road, and as a result get stuck in that part of the city. (It’s far from much of the city center and BTS/MRT transit lines.) Staying in the tourist/backpacker hub of a city can prevent you from having multiple perspectives or experiences of a certain place, and I think that’s a huge reason why people who visit Bangkok/Khao San can give it such a bad rap. Get offered enough scorpions on a stick and you’ll get sick of the place, too. Although I have yet to have a completely disastrous hostel experience (I did have a pretty crummy one in Chiang Mai with a bed mix up and a drunk guy waking me up at 4am), I know a lot of people who have left their hostels early for different reasons.
2. To Home stay or to Go?
I ultimately left Seminyak because I found a group of people who I wanted to travel with. We met while surfing (well, they were surfing — I was trying to keep my balance on the board while getting caught in the cord wrapped around my ankle) in Canggu, and they all happened to bunk above and next to me at the hostel. They (a lovely pack of Brits: Sophie, Dianne/Danielle, and Andrew) were leaving for Uluwatu the next day, and so, despite having paid for my pod a day longer I checked out. Over brunch we found a homestay in Uluwatu and headed down to the south of Bali. This ended up being the best decision I would make the entire trip.
We found the homestay on booking.com, another online platform for making reservations for hotels, cars, and you guessed it, homestays. These types of accommodations are attractive to me because of the local aspect and the family element of the living situation. You are a guest in these people’s home. Often, they are the ones doing the cooking and maintaining the facilities, and you are able to interact with them in their traditional way of life. It feels good to know that I am supporting a local/family business as opposed to a large hotel chain, and as a result can also have a more authentic experience. Abian Sari Homestay was well off the beaten path. We drove up and over hills through lush green canopies until we arrived in our own little paradise.
The last homestay experience I had in Sapa, Vietnam, had been rural, intimate, and cold. The family slept on mats on the floor with thick scratchy blankets covered with mosquito netting. I shivered myself to sleep. Abian Sari was a definite upgrade complete with A/C, hot and cold water, a gorgeous pool, and motorbikes for rent. The Balinese family was lovely and accommodating (although we did get into a bit of an argument with an uncle over the price of a lift to dinner), and I could have easily spent my entire trip in that area; imagine the beaches of Canggu mixed with the greenery of Ubud. Uluwatu definitely stole my heart, and if you are ever in Bali, I recommend it! The four of us split the cost of a bungalow, and had a great time partying, relaxing, and getting to know each other. Although it was not as cultural of an experience as I am sure other homestays are, it was a happy marriage of home and resort.
3. You gotta fight for the price to party.
If getting wasted for cheap and partying until the sun comes up is on your list of priorities when travelling, then staying at a hostel will work well for you. Many hostels, especially in frequently visited cities/areas are located close/closer to the nightlife. In fact, several hostels even have “Party” in their name (ex. Time Traveller’s Party Hostel in Hongdae, Seoul was a TIME let me tell ya) to let you know that if you are looking for a good time, they’ve got a bed with your name on it. With party hostels comes the assumption that the people staying there will likely be younger, more social, and keen to have a good time/good drink. This is perfect if that is also on your agenda. Personally, I can only do a few nights of this at a time. (My liver is not what it used to be, and neither is my tolerance for terrible techno music.) Although I partied a fair bit in Seminyak, slightly less in Uluwatu, even less in Ubud, and not at all on Gili Air (thanks, Bali belly!), knowing what type of social atmosphere you will be living in is a definite factor in deciding where you want to stay.
Ubud was my next stop after Uluwatu. Ubud is the green, gemstone jewellery, yoga and smoothie bowl capital of Bali. As someone who does not do yoga and is far from veganism, I found it quite difficult to fit/blend in here. I mean, I don’t even have one dreadlock! New Ubud Hostel is a quaint bed and breakfast by the Monkey Forest (a cute/horrifying gibbon sanctuary). Walking through a carved stone entryway I was met by a beautiful Buddha statue and entered a zen garden area with caged birds hanging from tree branches. A rooster pecked at the ground near my feet, and the bubbling of small fountains immediately soothed me. The rooms were aptly named “dream”, “magic”, and the like. Although the place itself was well-maintained, clean, and spacious, I was surprised to find older people and married couples bunking here, especially with all the lodging options available in the area. Once again I was on my own, and I knew that I had to make friends. I also knew that it might be a touch difficult in a less social setting.
Sophie and Dianne were also in Ubud, but were staying down the street. New Ubud was quite relaxed about having non-guests pay a visit, and so we hung out and chatted with other Brits at the hostel about the difference between cookies and biscuits (admittedly, I am still unsure). The hostel, like most, offers competitive prices for trips and tour packages for its guests. Booking these activities through the hostel works well because there is usually a group going, you get picked up not far from your bed, and dropped off again. As well, if you go on the tour with others from your hostel, afterwards you can all grab food, hang out, and talk about the experience. That being said, definitely shop around and see what the other travel agencies are quoting for these trips, because chances are, they are one in the same. After chatting with the front desk, we decided that in the morning (more like 2am) we would hike Mt. Batur, an active volcano, to watch the sunrise.
4. Getting Around
When I was told that the taxi services in Phuket are run by the Thai mafia, I thought it was a joke. I was met with stern faces telling me that it was not only true, but well-known information. This led to the prices of taxis being anywhere from 50–400% more expensive than they are in Bangkok. I am unsure what the situation is with the taxis in Bali, but I for one encountered many issues when trying to get around. For starters, the taxi fare is comparable to what one might pay in the West. Secondly, Uber and the Indonesian Go-Jek are specifically banned with ample signage and police on the lookout for unmarked vehicles picking up and dropping people off. Finally, some areas are so secluded that taxis do not operate, and instead, designated drivers (usually family members/friends of whoever owns the restaurant/bar/homestay) are phoned to drive any time someone needs a lift. The prices are usually ridiculous, and sometimes guiltily negotiable.
I took an Uber to Canggu for the day with some girls I met in Seminyak after ordering my Bintang. Canggu is known for its surf and black sand beaches, and though I am known for my poor swimming skills, I wanted to give surfing a shot. Our Uber driver was shifty-eyed when he picked us up, and told us to hurry with our bags so he could get out of there. “Big fine. Big trouble.” I slid into the backseat and wondered why people were keen to take such big risks. When he dropped me off at Echo Beach I asked if he would be able to pick me up in a few hours time. A police officer tapped on his window and after rolling it down he told him that he was “just dropping off, no pick up”. He then turned to me and said that I had better just take a cab.
However, when I was done being crushed and swirled by the waves, there didn’t happen to be any cabs around. The taxis I did find in town charged a ridiculous amount to get me back to my hostel. “200 000".
Dude, it’s 15 minutes away!
That’s how much I had paid to get to Seminyak from the airport, 45 minutes away, AND I had been overcharged by 50 000. So, stubbornly cheap, I began to walk. Maps.Me said that it would be an hour and a half walk back to the hostel if I took the routes past farms and through back alleys. I was damp and tired and it would soon be dark. I walked for half an hour before it started to rain, and so I decided to be more proactive and asked what I thought was a traffic conductor/some type of security guard (but was probably just some random man) if he could help me get a taxi. “I’ll ask my friend.”
Ten minutes and some haggling later I was on the back of a motorcycle, helmetless (sorry, mom!), zooming through the rain back to Seminyak. I was pleased with myself for being able to sort out the situation, and paid only 40 000 for the ride (not bad for a bad negotiator!).
An easier way to get around, for those brave enough, is to rent your own bike and take yourself wherever you want to go. I had never driven a motorbike or scooter far before, and definitely not on thin, winding roads. Granted, roads are nicely paved in Uluwatu and I was with Andrew, Dianne, and Sophie. They told me that I had nothing to be worried about so long as I didn’t slam on the front break, gave it gas when I was going uphill, released the gas when going down a steep hill (what?? I don’t even have a driver’s license), and wasn’t an idiot. Many tourists opt for this mode of transportation despite the frequency of accidents due to its cost and convenience. Road scrapes and injuries from motorbikes are known there as “Balinese kisses”. Let’s just say that a lot of people had been kissed from the road on the grey, and I was not in the mood for any smooching. After the initial paranoia that I was going to cause a 4-car-pileup, I took a breath and enjoyed the scenic views as we drove from beach to beach. I felt like a huge badass zooming down the roads, signalling my turns way earlier than necessary.
5. Getting Home
Finally, just as the proximity of the hostel after arriving to the city is important to me, returning to the airport from the hostel is (probably even more) important. At the end of a trip it is often hard to find the motivation to pack up and leave, especially knowing that you’ll be returning to work/your old schedule. But, with traffic and delays it’s always a good idea to be vigilant about getting to the airport with enough time to get through security and maybe even get a snack (Soy Joy — a fruit and tofu bar — became my snack obsession when I was trying to fit in with the health-conscious in Ubud).
My final stop in Indonesia was on Gili Air, one of three small islands west of Lombok. I stayed at a lovely hostel called Captain Coconuts that was recommended to me by a traveller in Ubud. The beds were suspended by ropes and swung, and were covered by mosquito netting that created a fairy-tale like (although very translucent) sleeping experience. The place had a delicious vegetarian/vegan-friendly cafe attached, and a stunning pool. I paid the most for this accommodation (around $20CAD/night), but definitely experienced a more resort-like stay. Although it was a bit off the beaten path and mostly unsocial, I liked the serenity, and spent most of my time on the island diving, anyway.
I booked a joint shuttle van/speed boat ticket to and from Gili Air. The speed boats left at certain times every day, but I was told to expect delays. My flight was to leave for Kuala Lumpur (with a terribly long overnight layover) at 9PM, so I figured I’d be able to hop on the 3PM ferry with plenty of time to make it to Depnasar for my flight. I already had my boarding pass and didn’t have any luggage to check. That being said, I was told by locals and travellers alike to take the 11AM ferry as to avoid getting caught in traffic and missing my flight. I thought I’d have more than enough time to get there, and that there was no way that the traffic in Bali could rival the traffic of Bangkok. After going over anticipated travel times (a 2 1/2 hour boat, then 2 hours in the car to the airport should be enough time, right?), I figured I’d rather be early than stranded (although Bali is not a bad place to be stranded, I was running out of money very quickly). This story does not end dramatically with me rushing to get to my gate with moments to spare, but rather with me being really early and unable to check in for about 6 hours (I didn’t say that I was always right about this stuff!) and hanging out with a cool guy whose flight was due to leave even later than mine was.
And now…
I have just booked a flight to Paris leaving in one month, and a flight back to Bangkok from Venice 5 weeks later. (Those that know me well know that I have been DREAMING about Venice ever since I did a project on it in fourth grade and I CANNOT WAIT!!!) I am slowly beginning to fill the time in-between with plans that I am bad at making, and am constantly thinking about changing. This will be my first time in Europe, and I know it will cost a pretty pound. I would really appreciate any and all insight and travel tips for my current itinerary of 1 week in France, 2 weeks in Spain, and 2 weeks in Italy. (All of these are up in the air because I am indecisive!) Can’t wait to eat my weight in cheese, and drink all of my feelings!
OH, and for those of you wondering if I found love in Bali, let’s just say that’s another story for another time.
