I set out to travel 5 West African countries by road. #1
It was a spur of the moment decision and I did not want to wait until 2020 to start ticking off items on my bucket list. At the start of 2019, I felt the urge to live more closely to my dreams and stop settling out of a need to survive. This urge gave me so much insomnia for most of the year that by June 2019, I had visited my bucket list, updated it and decided on what to do. I would get off reading blogs, news stories and reports; and DO my own research, visit and see for myself what was going on and create the content of realities. What item on that bucket list beckoned the most?
For the past 10 years, I have wanted to travel across West Africa by road. After my work contract ended in October, I took 8 weeks off from November — December 2019 to do just that. This is the first blog in what will be a series of blogs throughout January on this ‘expedition’ I went on. Follow me on what will be a most interesting journey indeed.
The five countries I decided on were Mali, Côte d’Ivoire, Ghana, Togo and Benin. Outside of Mali, I had no security worries travelling into these countries. Did I need a visa for these countries? Yes, I needed a visa to all five countries. If I had a Cameroon passport, I would not need a visa to Mali and could get a visa on entry in Ghana. However, I would never go for the option of getting a visa on arrival in Ghana. It will cost you a whopping $150 (US DOLLARS!) at the border. I will get into this in a later blog in the series. We are not there yet. If I had an ECOWAS passport, then I could travel to all countries without needing a visa.
I bought my ticket directly on the Royal Air Maroc website. The reason I chose the website over flight aggregator websites, was because I wanted the security of dealing with the airline directly. I could get a flexible ticket that was amenable without the hassle of additional fees that you incur using flight agencies. The tickets turned out to be cheaper when purchased directly on the Air Maroc website. In addition, I was happy to note that Royal Air Maroc website had the option to book departure from one country and return via another. I booked my departure from London Gatwick into Félix Houphouët Boigny International Airport Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire. My return flight will be from Kotoka International Airport Accra, Ghana into London Heathrow.
It would have been great to start with Mali but a single entry visa for up to one month stay from the UK, cost £190; multiple-entries for up to three months, a whopping £220. Paying this amount for a visa would not be kind to my budget and led to my next move. I got an e-visa online for Côte d’Ivoire which cost me 75 Euros. The process was very straightforward and I received my visa confirmation within 24hrs. On arrival at the airport in Abidjan, the visa was professionally appended to my passport on arrival without any fanfare. The visa had my photo on it, a first for me. I was impressed with the customer service from the Ivorian Immigration Service. However, getting an e-visa can be tricky and I almost fell into the hands of internet fraudsters. I shared my experience here.
Côte d’Ivoire would be my gateway to the other four countries. I arrived Abidjan on Tuesday, 5th November 2019 to a welcome by a huge Didier Drogba poster advertising the Orange network. I did end up with an Orange SIM as a result.
I had to secure a visa to Mali, being the most important itinerary on my list. I went to the Malian Embassy in Abidjan which is based in the Plateau neighbourhood on the next day. Plateau is very business and official area with tall buildings. I could now see why Abidjan was called the ‘Manhattan of the Tropics’. As we drove my Angré towards town, I saw a lot of the Atlantic Ocean as Abidjan is a coastal city. There were ships moored off the waterfront and driving down the motorway in Cocody, I spied the Gare du Sud where those who take water taxis (boats) from the surrounding islands alighted to make their way into town. I marvelled at this city linked by so many beaches as Abidjan is literally islands and lagoons roped together.
At the Malian Embassy, I was directed to a lady in the visa office who asked for the purpose of my visit. I had come prepared with photocopies of my documents and passport photos. I filled out two forms and within 3hrs, was granted a multiple entry visa. It cost me 45,000frs (£58.22). Not a bad deal! In London, I would have shelled out £220 for the same service. I was duly impressed by the fastidiousness of the Malians which is one thing I will come to identify with how they handle business. Pay your dues and services are promptly honoured. A people of their word, but in politics is another ball game. (Let’s retreat from this at this juncture.)
I stayed in Abidjan for almost a week before my trip to Mali. I would still have to come back here to proceed to Benin, before Togo and my final stop Ghana where my return flight would depart. Finding food was a challenge simply because I did not know good hideaway food spots at affordable prices. Eateries and restaurants were easy to find but they were very expensive. It was not unusual to see food prices starting from 4,500frs to 13,000frs just for a simple plate of pasta. That to someone like myself who understands the value of the Franc CFA (pronounced Say-fah), is extremely expensive. When in a different country, I think in terms of the local currency. Most of these restaurants offered shawarmas, pasta, pizza, salads, sandwiches and roasted chicken. But I did not want to eat what I had left behind in Europe. I wanted local and affordable (in Franc cfa).
I wanted to taste Ivorian food and eventually did — a dish called Atiéké. Ivorians love Atiéké and I decided to try it. There was a bit of a problem. The food just would not go down my gut. I possess a strong Cameroonian palette — food MUST be spicy and very hot. Atiéké tasted like dry garri stained with soup in my opinion. My taste buds rejected it categorically and I decided to respect their decision.
On my second day in Abidjan, I went out in the evening in search of an eatery around where I lived. As luck would have it, I discovered a spot called ‘Chez Vero’ and turns out Veronique, the owner, was Cameroonian. She deftly prepared some grilled fish (poissons braisé) and fried plantain for me as she understood my food drought out here. I was in heaven but could not eat every day at this restaurant. It was not that cheap either.
That is how I then stumbled on some roadside suya on wheels around Espace Opera. It was a business run by two Malian lads and became my go-to meal — suya with baguette, garnished with spicy chilli. Another food item I came to appreciate was yoghurt and millet. I found it so nutritious and filling, and would literally stalk my local bakery or boulangerie as they are called in Francophone/French countries for some to stock in my fridge for breakfast. I drank a lot of coconut water and fresh orange juice as it was in season. There were beignets made out of millet flour which I ended up liking too.
With my hunger abated and food source secured, I could tour the city properly.
‘ Abidjan, the Manhattan of the Tropics and a Regenerating City (My Impressions of Abidjan), is the next blog… (see you in two days)
#WestAfricaTravelbyRoadSeries
