Why You Should Skip Sedona & Travel to Clarkdale, AZ instead
So you’re headed to Arizona.
The land of canyons, cactus, and cowboys.
You’ve done your research and found “Sedona” on everybody’s list.
You have to go, right? You can’t miss a “must-see” spot, after all.
How can you admit to friends and family you didn’t marvel at Sedona’s red rocks? You weren’t energized by the vortexes? You didn’t bounce around on a Pink Jeep Tour?
Well, I’ve been to Sedona and, yes, it’s beautiful.
But like so many “must see” destinations, Sedona is a victim of its own popularity.
What do I mean by that?
The land of milk and honey turns sour.
Back in the day, everybody who visited Sedona dreamed of living there — so many stayed. And built houses and businesses.
And told their friends and families about this utopia.
Soon chain stores and corporate hotels moved in to cater to the masses of people showing up, all wanting to experience this incredible mecca for themselves.
Which is why Sedona is now a built up, commercialized city.
Lots of hotels, motels, stores, and restaurants.
Sedona has so much traffic, they’ve put in roundabouts.
Parking is difficult and no longer free.
Restaurants are crowded.
Shops are kitschy, touristy, and expensive.
After hiking to the top of a mountain, you’ll be hard-pressed to see pristine scenery. Nope, roads and rooftops will mar your view.
So, this summer, when I visited Verde Valley, I skipped Sedona — and discovered enchanting Clarkdale by accident.
Close but, oh, so far away.
Clarkdale — a historic copper smelting town — lies only 23 miles west of Sedona on AZ 89A.
The town was built by Senator William A. Clark of New York.
Clark was a copper magnate (dubbed “America’s Copper King”), a railroad baron, and one of the richest men in the USA in the late 1800’s.
He bought the United Verde Copper Company in nearby Jerome in 1888. In 1912 he decided to change his mining techniques and had to move the smelting operation further downhill.
So he built one of the first “master-planned” company towns in Arizona.
A town where his workers and their families would live. A town that included a business district, a hospital, schools, and the all-important town park.
A town he named after himself.
The rise and fall of Clarkdale’s master plan.
In 1912, Clarkdale was the most modern city in Arizona. It had running water, electricity — and even a sewer system (unusual at that time).
With copper smelting in its heyday, Clarkdale bustled — 5526 people lived and worked there.
Then, 13 years later, in 1925, Mr. Clark died at the ripe old age of 86.
Soon Clark’s male heirs died one after another — heart attack, pneumonia, plane accident. Within 10 years, only the Clark women were left to run the business.
But they weren’t interested.
So the Clark women sold the company and the town for $20.8 million and left for greener pastures.
(If you like fascinating reads, this book about Mr. Clark’s daughter, Empty Mansions: The Mysterious Life of Huguette Clark and the Spending of a Great American Fortune by Bill Dedman & Paul Clark Newell fits the bill. I could barely put it down.)
Slowly, smelting operations slowed down and the smelter closed in 1953. And the people began to leave.
By 1970, the US Federal Census counted only 892 people in Clarkdale.
Today, Clarkdale is a sleepy little town full of artists and retirees.
Which brings me back to why you should hang out in Clarkdale instead of Sedona.
According to the barista at Violette’s, Clarkdale is “a small town with a Mayberry RFD feel.”
It’s where life is simpler and time moves slower.
Unique lodging, small-town prices.
In Sedona, lodging prices are outrageous. You can easily spend well over $100 a night for a third-rate motel.
But in today’s world of AirBnB and VRBO, you have a variety of choices for where to lay your head in Clarkdale.
Off-the-beaten path homes. Great views. Friendly hosts.
The Clarkdale Lodge, The Mescal Canyon Retreat, and The Arizona Lighthouse are just several options that receive excellent reviews — all for reasonable prices.
Skip the chain hotels. Enjoy a unique experience for less money.
Sit back and enjoy your meal.
While Clarkdale may not be a “foodie’s” destination, you certainly won’t go hungry.
If you’re in the mood for a true Mexican experience, I can vouch for the flavor-packed enchiladas at Su Casa Mexican Restaurant.
Hungry for American grub? Scott’s Main Street Cafe is the place to go.
Violette’s, the coffeeshop & cafe set in an old caboose, is a great breakfast or early lunch spot. And they offer vegan options.
The town’s general store, Clarkdale Market, has a small cafe. They serve up breakfast burritos, hamburgers, fudge — you get the idea.
You can sit in the small inside dining area, at one of the sidewalk tables just outside the market, or meander to the park to commune with nature.
What’s there to do in Clarkdale?
When I asked the barista at Violette’s coffee shop in Cottonwood that question, she suggested I check out the town park. So I did.
With its green and white bandstand, Town Park is still the center of the town.
The soft grass invites you to stop and stretch your legs. And the playground is a perfect place to let kids run off their energy.
You can grab some grub at Violette’s caboose (like I did) or at Clarkdale Market, and enjoy a leisurely picnic under the leafy trees.
You might even sit and have a chat with the local police officer, Mayberry RFD-style. He may not be Andy or Barney but, according to the barista, he’ll be friendly and willing to talk.
And, if the night life is your thing, 10–12 has you covered. A recently renovated upscale bar and lounge, they sport an outdoor patio with live entertainment.
Clarkdale museums — nothing to sneeze at.
I’m a big fan of museums. When I travel, I always check out at least one or two.
And for a small town, Clarkdale has three good ones. Don’t be fooled by size; it’s quality that matters.
The Arizona Copper Art Museum
The Arizona Copper Art Museum won the Arizona Governor’s Tourism Award in 2014.
Housed in the renovated high school (built in 1928), the museum is the brainchild of Pat Meinke and her son Drake, who are both passionate about copper. They search the world for pieces to place in the museum.
With over 5000 artifacts, hundreds dating to the 1500–1800’s, the museum is well organized into themes. Each classroom showcases pieces correlating to a particular theme —information, military art, kitchenware, art & architecture, religion, distillery & winery.
I found the room filled with WWI trench art fascinating. Who knew shell casings that destroyed so much could be so beautiful? Or that the young men serving in the Great War were so talented?
What Makes This Museum Special?
Besides the outstanding collection of copper pieces, the curators take great pride in making this a fun museum.
Photos are encouraged. Touching is encouraged. And bringing your pets is highly encouraged!
How Much Does It Cost To Go Through The Arizona Copper Art Museum?
Adults — $9.75; Seniors (60+), Veterans & Students (with ID) - $8.75;
Youth (10–17) — $3.50; Children (5–9) — $1.25.
It’s a great way to spend 2–3 hours, especially during a hot afternoon.
The Clarkdale Historical Society Museum
This museum presents a nice collection of historical information about the town, the Clark family, and the mining operation.
The building was originally built as a medical clinic during the 1918 Influenza Pandemic. The clinic closed in the early 1950s.
The police department was once located in the basement where somebody decided the boiler room was a perfect spot for the jail. No coddling prisoners in this town.
What Makes This Museum Special?
The docents have lived in Clarkdale for years (one having been born and raised there) and know where all the skeletons are buried.
Their stories bring prominent families, as well as day-to-day mining operations, to life. They connect tiny Clarkdale to the major players of Las Vegas and New York City.
How Much Does It Cost To Go Through The Clarkdale Historical Society Museum?
Another great place to meander for a couple of hours, the Clarkdale Historical Society Museum is FREE!
The John Bell Railroad Museum
This renovated old boxcar showcases the history of Verde Canyon Railroad, as well as the nearby towns and ranches.
What Makes This Museum Special?
It’s full of vintage railroad artifacts, photographs, and memorabilia. John Bell, the original train car attendant and a long-time Clarkdale resident, donated many pieces from his personal collection.
How Much Does It Cost To Go Through The John Bell Railroad Museum?
The John Bell Railroad Museum sits next to the outdoor cafe at the Verde Canyon train station. It’s FREE and open daily.
Enough with museums — what else is there to do?
Speaking of Verde Canyon train station, the Verde Canyon Railroad Tour starts in — you guessed it — Clarkdale.
The 4-hour train tour of Arizona’s backcountry from Clarkdale to Perkinsville is said to be the highlight of people’s visit to Verde Valley. I didn’t get a chance to take it over the summer, but plan to check it out this winter.
Tuzigoot National Monument, one of the largest pueblos built by the Sinagua, is also in Clarkdale. Again, on my list for my next visit.
Don’t guzzle gas — save some dough.
If your travel plans include exploring the surrounding Verde Valley, Clarkdale is closer to many of the area attractions than Sedona.
- Out of Africa Wildlife Park (Clarkdale: 16 miles; Sedona: 29)
- Montezuma Castle and Well (Clarkdale: 23 miles; Sedona: 35)
- Jerome — (Clarkdale: 5 miles; Sedona: 28)
- Cottonwood (Clarkdale: 4 miles; Sedona: 19)
- Fort Verde State Historic Park (Clarkdale: 21 miles; Sedona: 27)
And if you’re into hiking, there are plenty of trails all over Verde Valley.
Kiss that post-vacay recupe good-bye.
So, if you’re tired of traffic, crowds, and over-priced bauble hawkers…
If you want to avoid the hustle and bustle of the masses...
If you want a better way to explore Verde Valley…
visit Clarkdale, AZ — a simpler, slower, quieter town.
A little off the beaten path with plenty to see and do.
And, if you must experience Sedona, make it a day-trip — it’s only 30 minutes away!
