Quality. Ethics. Sustainability.
The above author is comparing commodity coffee with speciality grade coffee — one comes from coffee cherries from low-altitude farms, a mixture of ripe/unripe/poor quality mixed-lots from all over the place and the other is the top 20% of properly ripe cherries, no defects, and usually single-farm (or central processing station) beans.
The cost difference between these products is huge, it doesn’t matter where you serve it — if you’re buying good green beans you can’t afford to sell espresso for commodity prices.