New Balmain starts now.

No need to define Kim Kardashian’s style : vulgar, tacky, bling bling. So was Balmain, until today. Olivier Rousteing offered more sober colors, lines and outfits. It started with tailored pieces, belted but not as uncomfortable as it could have been in the past : silk was printed or embellished with barroco patterns — a referrence to trimmings’ tradition — as some laces brought this glamazon touch of the french label. Shiny/silky yet very smart.

Belts were almost everywhere, underling women’s curves in a very sexy way. Cut-out tops unveil skin as a part of the design wonderfully : there were even full black outfits without anyhthing else, which symbolised this almost cleaned new Balmain style. Ultimate sophistication meets simplicity to let us focus on velvet and silk froufrous.

Embroideries sublimate a tight with exposed shoulders dress, jumpsuit and a transparent tulle skirt worn with a metal belt and a suede top. It’s all very fine, even delicate, an amazing collection. But as ever with Balmain, the success of Rousteing’s work is also based on the house atelier’s work and know-how. Today, it was perfectly combined with a very strong yet fine vision of fashion. Let’s hope this harmony between the young artistic director, craftsmanship and refinement is just a beginning !