Before seizing operations; at the last minute, I gained an opportunity to board and travel on the famous blue sleeper train, “Hokutoesei”.

SUPERLOCAL
8 min readMar 24, 2015

--

Blue train, Hokutosei

In Japan, we have an unique culture where many lifelong “railway fans” exist.
In recent years, “geek culture” is occupying a large portion of Japanese generations. The rail fanatics are some of the pioneers of this culture.

Hyakken Uchida is one of the representatives, who existed in the old era of Meiji, Taisho, and Showa.
Without any specific reason, he boarded a train to go to Osaka and then travelled back home on the same day. He is the author of the book “Fool train” in the topic about railway travel.
It was then converted into comics published by Shogakukan. We highly recommended to read not only the original writing but also the comics.
http://sol-comics.shogakukan.co.jp/solc_src?jan=cl&pat=b2&text=%88%A2%96%5B%97%F1%8E%D4

Since the history of railway is quite extensive, there have become many nicknames for railway fans, such as “Tetsu-chan”, “Tetsu”, “Tetsuko”, “Tetsudo-mania”, “Tetsu geek”.
This endorses the infatuation of why the railway culture has continued to evolve.

For the dedicated fan, trains can offer complexity in their detailed technicalities, but at the same time trains also provide simplicity for everybody else to enjoy.

[caption id=”attachment_4551" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

The railway track that Hokutosei runs

The railway track that Hokutosei runs[/caption]

The blue sleeper train “Hokutosei” holds such a representation of existence to entertain in Japan.

Blue train, Hokutosei

A major attraction for trainspotters in Japan is the blue sleeper train, “Hokutosei”. On March 13th, the regular services of the night train were put to an end. This summer of 2015, the role of the special train will cease and history will be made.
In order to see off Hokutosei’s finale, we managed to secure tickets to ride from Ueno station to Sapporo station.

Tickets for Hokutosei started to hold platinum value

It is very hard to purchase a ticket in order to ride Hokutosei. It’s not too much to say that an even to ride Hokutosei already started before you got the right to get on it.

Tickets prior to 10 am one month time was immediately sold out. Whether you can get a ticket, it depends on which station you buy at or how fast the staff deals with it.

Fortunately, by standing in the queue, since 8am, for around two hours, one before the journey, I managed to purchase a ticket of Hokutosei.

The ticket for Hokutosei

The date and time were stamped, March 8th — 19:03.

The journey of Hokutosei departed from Ueno station and was seen off by many railway enthusiasts with their cameras

[caption id=”attachment_4491" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

Ueno station

The Journey of Hokutosei departing from Ueno station[/caption]

Ueno Station, aiming for Platform 13. Today was the day to ride on Hokutosei.

Platform 13 at Ueno station

At 18:45, Hokutosei was about to arrive at the station, Platform 13 at Ueno station was full of trainspotters with their cameras.
Being overwhelmed by unexpected enthusiasm, extending my neck as much as I could, I was also desperate to see the carriages of Hokutosei, which I was about to ride.
After a while, the carriages of Hokutosei arrived slowly and quietly at the platform. At this same moment, the storm of shutter sound began!
As the station staff’s voice echoed, “Please do not run!” The scene was like a battlefield, as I felt the train fanatics full of spirit as they tried not to miss the perfect photo opportunity.

hokutosei
hokutosei

[caption id=”attachment_4443" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

hokutosei

My carriage was called “Duet” — Type B accommodation.[/caption]

Arriving at the departure time, Hokutosei started to disembark.
Just before leaving the platform, I caught sight of many fans holding their cameras rushing to the front edge of Ueno station.
Many of the fans were busy taking photos and there was one fan waiving his hands with a smile as he saw Hokutosei leave the station.
At this moment when leaving the platform, I realized now and understood just how much Hokutosei was loved.

The train was running through the night, towards the north

After departing from Ueno station, the passengers were very enthusiastic about being aboard Hokutosei.

The queuing passengers waiting for a dining carriage aboard Hokutosei
The dining carriage on Hokutosei
The dining carriage on Hokutosei
Hokutosei

Immediately after departure, vouchers to use a shower room, that were available at a dining carriage, were already completely sold out!
The lounge space adjoining the dining carriage, was full of passengers awaiting their turn. Some people went back and forth, up and down the aisle, holding on to their cameras, hoping not to miss any single moment to take photos of Hokutosei.

[caption id=”attachment_4475" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

Hokutosei’s facilities

I was interested to see a little bit of the old atmosphere of Hokutosei’s facilities.[/caption]

[caption id=”attachment_4523" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

a rice cracker with the Hokutosei logo

I purchased a rice cracker with the Hokutosei logo, at a shop in Hokutosei.[/caption]

I realized traveling was a lot of fun

[caption id=”attachment_4511" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

The entrance to the dining carriage, providing dinner

The entrance to the dining carriage, providing dinner[/caption]

As dinner time came to an end, it gradually became quieter inside.

The interior of Hokutosei

More and more people falling asleep, as Hokutosei moved closer towards the destination.
Seeing views outside from the carriage window, gave me a strange feeling.
At every station, strangers on the platform waived which made me feel embarrassed.

[caption id=”attachment_4539" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

hokutosei

I could not take photos properly, as I was having too much fun on this train journey.[/caption]

From the window, as we passed through stations, I saw people in their daily life routines, just like us, going home.
However, I was passing by, moving toward a different place far away from my normal life.
As the train journey progressed, somebody’s daily life and mine were continuing, which at this moment felt quite extraordinary as they existed along side of each other.

[caption id=”attachment_4515" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

Hokutosei parked at Koriyama Station.

Hokutosei parked at Koriyama Station.[/caption]

Koriyama Station
Hakodate Station
Oshamanbe Station
Tomakomai Station

The ticket price for Hokutosei is 27,980 JPY (variable depending on the carriage class.)
It is not cheap price considering there are less expensive examples such as LCC or budget hotels.

[caption id=”attachment_4588" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

The guest room inside of Hokutosei, Type B, Duet

The guest room inside of Hokutosei, Type B, “Duet”[/caption]

[caption id=”attachment_4507" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

hokutosei Sleeping Compartment

Sleeping Compartment[/caption]

[caption id=”attachment_4503" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

Yukata with JR logo

There was a Yukata with JR logo on the bed[/caption]

Honestly, it is too expensive, if you think of this as a means of transportation.
If you want to enjoy a “luxury”, then it is better to select a bullet train or an airplane.

Hokutosei Dining Carriage

However, as you can choose how to use your time, Hokutosei can provide a different experience that you cannot have with other forms of transportation.
You can have a conversation with other passengers or enjoy the views, moving outside of the carriage window.
Using your time like this, cannot be achieved on a bullet train or an airplane.

Those who enjoy the view from the carriage of Hokutosei

Let’s not forget the presence of the staff members who provide excellent service to the passengers in order to let them all gain their individual experiences, whilst I enjoyed this extraordinary sense of riding on “Hokutosei”.

hokutosei
hokutosei
hokutosei
hokutosei
hokutosei

[caption id=”attachment_4579" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

Hokutosei arrived at Sapporo station.

Hokutosei arrived at Sapporo station.[/caption]

Generation shift due to maturity

[caption id=”attachment_4575" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

okutosei arrived at Sapporo station

The last train part of Hokutosei which arrived at Sapporo station.[/caption]

[caption id=”attachment_4571" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

Hokutosei arrived at Sapporo station

This was the coach I was riding.[/caption]

On March 14th 2015, the new “Hokuriku bullet train” will commence full operations, running from Kanazawa on the north west, Japan Sea shoreline, on route to Tokyo. In 2016 the “Hokkaido bullet train” will commence operations from Hokkaido to Tokyo.
Hokutosei has played a major role in the railway network traditions and was only ceased due to age.
At the same time, the precious experience you can gain by riding Hokutosei will soon be lost forever.

[caption id=”attachment_4483" align=”alignnone” width=”3840"]

北斗星 切符

You can receive a commemorative stamp on your ticket at the exit of Sapporo station.[/caption]

A railway is a limited space that trains must fight over to use.
It is only natural within any industry that mature machinery will one day be replaced by a more developed model. The cycle creates the nostalgic history for the older versions to stand proud for what they offered in their generation of time.
The railway merely offers a route of transportation, however for those fans who adore the existence of trains, then knowing that someday, they would be disappearing.

From the Carriage window of Hokutosei

I also shot the video during my Hokutosei journey and so please enjoy it with this report.

Enjoying the view, from the carriage window of “Hokutosei” the blue train.

--

--