Questlove Dreams of Sushi

It took seven months for renowned deejay, drummer, producer, culinary entrepreneur, New York Times best-selling author, Late Night mainstay, and member of the Roots, Questlove, to get a seat at Sukiyabashi Jiro for his birthday.

The small three-star Michelin restaurant, and subject of 2011 documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi, is hidden in the basement of a Tokyo subway station. The 20-course tasting menu commands 30,000 Japanese Yen a seat (over $300 CDN), but with only 10 seats a night, part of what you’re paying for is the intimate connection with 90-year-old sushi master, and national treasure of Japan, Jiro Ono.

Questlove spoke about his experience at Sukiyabashi Jiro and the anticipation leading up to it during a joint SXSW SouthBites panel with Austin-based Chef Paul Qui. He isn’t the only person to go through great lengths to secure a seat at the legendary establishment, a near impossible feat for foreigners. One blogger writes about her three-part attempt to get a reservation, the final of which required a distant Japanese colleague call and make the reservation on her behalf. Like Questlove, she went on describe the life-altering experience that is Jiro’s transcendental sushi.

With hundreds of world-class sushi restaurants to choose from, some of which have also earned the coveted three-star Michelin rating, it begs the question — what makes Jiro’s sushi so special?

Undoubtedly, Jiro is an artist. He’s dedicated over 75 years of his life to perfecting his craft. He demands nothing less than perfection from himself and his protégés, one of whom is Daisuke Nakazawa, owner of New York Times four-star restaurant Sushi Nakazawa. During the panel, Chef Qui questioned whether or not there was a significant difference between the quality of the sushi served by Jiro and his protégé. Ultimately, he believes there is. But it isn’t entirely what’s on the plate. According to Qui, the greatest difference lies in the story.

The context in which someone experiences a product or service shapes how it’s perceived. While Jiro’s success may have started with superb product, what takes it to legendary status is arguably the context in which it is experienced, and the authenticity of the source.

The documentary sheds light on the obstinate man and his meticulous process; the unexpected humble location make it a hidden gem, both figuratively and literally; and the difficulty of securing a coveted reservation makes getting a seat a milestone accomplishment. Questlove was so excited for his experience that he woke up at 5 am for an 11 am reservation.

Add to that an intimate and theatric presentation of the product, and you have an incredible story. “He makes 18 pieces of food and hands it to you. With five guys behind him, he stands in front of you as you eat each piece”, he enthusiastically shared, remembering every little detail of his experience.

The experience, and story, undoubtedly becomes part of the product. It’s where the humanity comes in, and creates meaning. “Food is not just art. It’s a narrative”, said Qui, whose next restaurant endeavor will reflect this. Toward the end of the panel, he announced his plans to open Otoko, an intimate 12-seat sushi restaurant of his own tucked in a discreet, windowless, second-story space at a boutique hotel.

“The way I judge projects is whether I’m going to go into them is whether it excites me or not. [It’s] not necessarily about the bigger paycheck… it’s about creating something big,” Qui said.

By focusing on his story, we think he might get that bigger paycheck after all.

- Sarah Gencarelli

Image by Nadia Chaudury/Twitter