A Natural Woman in Winemaking
Wine is rich in storytelling. It’s what makes wine special. Whether it’s our own stories about memorable experiences when enjoying wine with friends, family, a great meal, a fun trip or just savoring a beautiful moment, or if it’s others’ stories, especially those of the producers, that get us engaged and interested in their wine, stories trigger an emotional connection that draws us in and makes us remember a specific wine.
Recently I met a Sicilian woman who lives/works in Rome, and, as soon as she found out that I am working on a business to promote/sell Italian wines abroad, she gushed about the wonders of Sicily and the abundance of great wine and food, many by smaller producers which are still undiscovered abroad.
She then started to tell me about a young Sicilian woman, Arianna Occhipinti, who, after university in Milan, decided to buck the trend of leaving Sicily to make a living in ‘mainland’ Italy and beyond and, instead, return to her roots to make an attempt at natural winemaking on her father’s one hectare in Vittoria, in Southeastern Sicily. Thirteen years later, one hectare has led to twenty-two hectares, an enthusiastic following of wine lovers, in Italy and internationally, where she exports 85% of her wine, not to mention her becoming a book writer of ‘Natural Woman’, and becoming a social media sensation. She’s become the model and inspiration for many young Sicilians, and Italians, to follow in her footsteps of success.
Here is Arianna’s story in her own words:
What was the first year, when you returned to Sicily to start natural winemaking, like for you? What were the challenges? Who was your support system?
The first year, back in 2004, was always how it is when an adventure begins, very nice. I remember having lots of determination, joy and expectations. More than anything, I challenged myself to begin a trade that I loved through the experiences of others, including books and articles. But everything had to be put into practice. I relied on my tenacity more than anything, as well as having my father close by my side.
How was the first harvest and vintage? Who were your first customers? How did you find them?
The first vintage luckily went well; the wine seemed good. For sure, the first person to believe in me from a business point of view was Luca Gargano from the Italian distributor Velier. I invited him to stop by and sample my wines while he was doing tastings in the area, and he was thrilled with them. He said: ‘There are good wines, and there are great wines, but the most important thing in wine-making is to be sincere. This wine could become even better, but it is definitely sincere. As soon as you are ready, I would be happy to sell your wines throughout Italy.’ So that’s how I started, promoting and doing tastings, getting interest from the U.S., and then my business grew.
How did the expansion of your vineyard come about, starting with your first hectare to your current size today? Which have been the key success factors?
I rented the first vineyard. Later I planted other vineyards on a couple of acres of land I bought and then I grew year after year, renting some land and then buying some, to plant more vineyards. Now I cultivate in 8 districts in the heart of Cerasuolo di Vittoria.
What role did the community around you in Sicily have in your growth? Did you find resistance? What are the impacts from your initiatives?
Frankly, I have given little thought to potential barriers and resistance. I haven’t really cared too much about what the community thinks. Surely, it is not easy to be a credible woman who works in the countryside, and especially a young one, because here in Italy young people have little credibility, or those few who have gained it really had to work hard to get it.
Do you see yourself more as an Italian, Sicilian or a Vittoriese?
I identify myself most as a Sicilian, born in Marsala and having grown up in Vittoria. Sicily is like a small continent where province by province the landscape, plant varieties and people change. I see myself belonging to two different cultures, that of the West of Sicily and that of the East. But I am proud to have grown up in Vittoria, a town where work has always been sacred, in a laborious province, in healthy and wonderful agricultural surroundings. Between the Iblei Mountains and the Sea. Between winemaking and baroque architecture.
What are the next steps for your winery? Do you have other ambitions for the future?
For the moment I want to consolidate. I am expanding my agricultural project towards consistent biodiversity. Besides vineyards, which remains my first true passion, but also olives, grains and citrus fruits. I am trying to digest all the goodness around me, and then we’ll see what will come.
I understand that you export 85% of your wine. What advice would you have for other Italian wine producers who would like to better leverage foreign markets?
Talk about who you are, what you do, where you live and work. With sincerity and pride. Pack your bags and take the next train that passes.
Check out my blog at www.winemingle.wordpress.com
Ciao for now,
Sheila
