Lagers

By Tyler Turek

Lagers are a mysterious brew. They dominate the global beer market, but the light beer rarely gets its due. Nine out of every 10 beers poured worldwide is a lager, yet the rarely get the credit they deserve. Ignoring a few famous brands, we should all rejoice at the abundance of traditional European and North American craft lagers. Here are a few words in their honour.

Not all occasions call for a hoppy ale or Brett monster. Lagers shine crisp and clean with subtle toasty notes. Great lagers complement food. Serving at a potluck? They are a versatile crowd pleaser. Subtle malt qualities and palate-cleansing carbonation await the thirsty diner. As long as your meal is not too rich or spicy, a well-made lager will pair with distinction.

A delicate, bready beverage will satisfy you and your generic light beer-loving father-in-law. You likely won’t win him over with that Imperial IPA you’ve been cellaring since November.

Born in the Bavarian Alps, lagers are careful and precise. Mild flavours reveal any technical faults the beer might have. Billion-dollar breweries use corn and rice as cheap adjunct ingredients that dilute overall body, mouthfeel and maltiness. Traditional and most craft brewers use high-quality German malts and recipes.

Lager yeast (saccaromyches pastorianus) operates differently than ale yeasts. It ferments at colder temperatures (6–13 degrees Celsius) and for longer periods than ale yeast. This is known as bottom-fermenting yeast. By contrast, ale yeast is called top-fermenting as a result of the foamy head it leaves on the maturing beer. But there is no single lager. A review of the BJCP guidelines show at least 13 lager styles, including ambers and darks and lagered ales. It truly is a genre of beer-making all its own.

Fortunately, Ontario craft brewers produce a few excellent examples. Sidelaunch Brewing, Amsterdam Brewing, Muskoka Brewing and Lake of Bays all make fine lagers. With their mild taste and moderate alcohol content (around 5% ABV), you can test a few to find your favourite. Enjoy!