The northern coasts culinary highlight is the much-lauded restaurant in the seaside Stammershalle Badehotel. This historic 16-room inn welcomed its first guests almost a century ago. In 2011, husband-and-wife team Henrik Petersen and Henriette Lassen bought and refurbished the place, taking care to preserve the nostalgic charm of its red-shingled roof, model ships, and frayed portraits of Denmarks royal family.
A Bornholm native, chef Daniel Kruse, was brought on to run whats since become an excellent restaurant devoted to local produce. It quickly earned a reputation for inventive meals capped off with elaborate desserts, like the tableau of caramel cream and blackberry mousse speckled with fresh herbs that ended my dinner one night. And though Kruse recently handed over the reins to a new team, chef Mathias Sejer Srensen and pastry chef Andrea Aguirre Suarez, the restaurants locavore ethos has remained firmly in place. On Bornholm you know everyonethe farmer, the fishermanso its easy to get the best ingredients, Petersen says.
Because its only a half-hours flight from Copenhagen, Bornholm has become a new mecca in the culinary community. Diners from around the world now add it to their pilgrimages to Noma. No one is more surprised by this than Nrregaard. We were a bit nervous when we took over this place in the middle of nowhere, he said. We placed ads in the paper. Word spread slowly at firstthen it exploded. Kadeau is now busy all summer long, and one meal is enough to understand why. At dinner, the mushrooms we found in the forest were tossed with black-currant-leaf oil, local peas, and mussels. Freshly baked bread made with Svaneke beer came with tangy house-churned butter. Warm smoked salmon arrived on smoldering hay with dried cornflowers and rhubarb vinaigrette. A fire pit glowed outside as the sun vanished behind the dunes, the Baltic whitecaps fading to black.
The Details: What to Do in Today’s Bornholm
Fly to Rnne via a connection in Copenhagen.
Melsted Badehotel: A cozy, renovated hotel from 1932 with a fine restaurant and great Baltic Sea views. Gudhjem; melsted-badehotel.dk; doubles from $255.
Nordlandet Hotel: A seaside B&B with an appealing, minimalist Scandinavian aesthetic and a lovely terrace. Allinge; hotelnordlandet.com; doubles from $181.
Stammershalle Badehotel: This quirky 16-room inn with an excellent restaurant feels like something plucked from the set of a Wes Anderson movie. Gudhjem; stammershalle-badehotel.dk; doubles from $135.
Restaurants & Shops
Christianshjkroen: Modern Nordic cuisine thats fresh, seasonal, and a great valueall in a beautiful forest setting. Aakirkeby; christianshojkroen.dk; tasting menus from $56.
Hallegaard: Stock up on housemade charcuterie at the shop, or snag a table at the cafe to sample the selection of dishes centered on cured meats. stermarie; hallegaard.dk.
Kadeau: An inventive restaurant serving dishes like clams with fermented wheat and pickled pinecones are reason enough to book a ticket to Bornholm. Aakirkeby; kadeau.dk; tasting menus from $120.
Lakrids: This boutique from the lauded candymaker offers licorice in flavors both traditional (salty, sweet) and unexpected (habanero, chili cranberry). Svaneke; lakrids.nu.
Nex Gamle Rgeri: The best old-fashioned smokehouse on the island. Try the smoked fish and smrrebrd. Nex; n-g-r.dk; entrees $7$20.