An immersive journey through the Ecuadorian Amazon

WWF Forests
5 min readAug 28, 2023

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The forests of northern Ecuador face many threats but partnerships can help counter these and promote sustainable economic models.

By Fran Price, Leader, WWF Global Forest Practice

Fran Price, Global Forest Practice Lead, WWF, on the the Aguarico River in nothern Ecuador. © Óscar Luna / WWF-Ecuador
Fran Price, Global Forest Practice Lead, WWF, on the the Aguarico River in nothern Ecuador. © Óscar Luna / WWF-Ecuador

The northern Ecuadorian Amazon is brimming with life: Indigenous communities that hold their heritage close, and natural forests teeming with a diversity of trees and iconic species such as jaguars, river dolphins, tapirs and monkeys.

I was privileged to recently visit this beautiful landscape, an experience that compressed so much into a few days that it felt like weeks of learning, connections, and encounters.

This region faces escalating threats from palm oil cultivation, ranching, and forest plantations, in addition to the existing threats from petroleum infrastructure. The once-majestic forest, enriched by Indigenous cultures, towering canopies, and teeming wildlife, has transformed into landscapes reminiscent of many urbanized tropical areas. The grandeur of the original forests seemed elusive, but as we journeyed further inland deeper into the forest, pockets of intact nature and thriving communities hinted at hope.

WWF is working closely with local Indigenous groups (Siekopai, Sionas, Kichwas, Cofanes, and Shuar), the provincial government of Sucumbios, and other NGOs to counter the drivers of deforestation in this region. Our collaborative approach also aims to foster economic models that preserve forests while serving local communities. Visiting these areas underscored the focal points of our efforts and the growing synergies among our alliances.

WWF staff meet with the Ministry of Environment, Water and Ecological Transition in Lago Agrio. © Rafael Yunda / WWF-Ecuador
WWF staff meet with the Ministry of Environment, Water and Ecological Transition in Lago Agrio. © Rafael Yunda / WWF-Ecuador

Our first destination was Lago Agrio, where we engaged with the Ministry of Environment, Water and Ecological Transition. These conversations illuminated the challenges the local government confronts, from limited resources to the complicated dynamics of short political cycles. Their proactive integration of land use planning for agriculture and forests and the engagement of Indigenous communities across the region mirrored WWF’s priorities: conserving and then restoring forests. We probed into tools like the Socio Bosque project, which directly compensates partners for conservation efforts. Despite its imperfections, the program’s resilience through changing political climates is commendable and I came away impressed with the commitment of these government employees and to their positive spirit of contribution.

Indigenous women’s group, Arte Sukû, creates crafts from a variety of native trees and bushes. © Rafael Yunda / WWF-Ecuador
Indigenous women’s group, Arte Sukû, creates crafts from a variety of native trees and bushes. © Rafael Yunda / WWF-Ecuador

Our journey carried us by car, canoe, and foot to a Cofán community. WWF’s collaboration here supports a women’s group — Arte Sukû — generating alternative income sources tied to the forest. Their crafts symbolize a unique connection to the land. The materials used in their handicrafts, such as seeds, are collected from a variety of native trees and bushes, many of which are being grown in a nursery to replenish the forest. As seeds transform into intricate jewelry, the women exemplify the harmony between long-term conservation and local prosperity. These women are leading the way on long term conservation of their territories, showing that it can go hand in hand with local livelihoods.

WWF staff meet with Henry Párraga, a local leader who is promoting a sustainable livestock association in the village of Taracoa in northern Ecuador. © Óscar Luna / WWF-Ecuador
WWF staff meet with Henry Párraga, a local leader who is promoting a sustainable livestock association in the village of Taracoa in northern Ecuador. © Óscar Luna / WWF-Ecuador

After this inspirational visit, we continued into the night to Taracoa. There I met Henry Párraga, a local leader who is promoting a sustainable livestock association. We toured his vibrant farm, where trees mingled with grassy pastures, dispelling myths about conservation and sustainable practices. His innovative techniques, for example rotating his cows from one plot to another every day using movable electric fences, have allowed him to keep natural forest on 60% of his 35-hectare farm.

The Soto Tsiaya Indigenous community is restoring forests and creating handicrafts from natural products in these forests. Rafael Yunda / WWF-Ecuador
The Soto Tsiaya Indigenous community is restoring forests and creating handicrafts from natural products in these forests. © Rafael Yunda / WWF-Ecuador

In the company of a community association, we also observed WWF’s work in supporting restoration of native tree species that also sustain local livelihoods. Further along the road we met Soto Tsiaya, another Indigenous community, and an organized women’s group that is restoring forests and creating handicrafts from the natural products in these forests. I saw in action native palm fibers of chambira transformed into handbags, belts, and jewelry, embracing tradition while protecting the environment. It was hugely inspirational to see the work of these women leaders in conservation-aligned livelihoods.

Further into our journey, we crossed the Aguarico River to arrive at Yamanunka Shuar community that was settled in the 1970s by a small number of Shuar who had left their traditional territories in search of greater economic opportunity. The community is restoring trees such as Spanish cedar and mahogany, as well as cacao and a variety of fruit trees.

Fran Price, Global Forest Practice Lead, WWF, in the forest in northern Ecuador. © Óscar Luna / WWF-Ecuador
Fran Price, Global Forest Practice Lead, WWF, in the forest in northern Ecuador. © Óscar Luna / WWF-Ecuador

The day culminated with a boat ride on the Limoncocha lagoon, surrounded by the symphony of nature at twilight. Amidst fireflies and stars, the experience encapsulated the essence of the remarkable individuals encountered throughout the week — fellow conservationists, Indigenous leaders, and committed government officials. These dedicated souls are crafting sustainable economic pathways rooted in community ownership.

This visit resonated deeply with me, affirming the significance of collective endeavors in places like the northern Ecuadorian Amazon. The warmth of the communities and the inspiration drawn from fellow advocates left an indelible mark. It is here and in places like this where our collective efforts matter the most. I am also heartened by the hopeful message that the government and people of Ecuador sent recently that nature matters, by making critical decisions on oil exploration in one of the most biodiverse areas of Yasuní National Park, as well as halting metallic mining explorations in the Andean Chocó region. It is critical that we amplify efforts such as this that ensure people live in harmony with nature.

Northern Ecuador. © Óscar Luna / WWF-Ecuador
Northern Ecuador. © Óscar Luna / WWF-Ecuador

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