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…ning face. Finding a nice stable rail, my board guides me into the pocket and it all seems so easy, the feeling of fresh tracks on powdered snow. Perhaps I lack the crowd pleasing style I dreamt of briefly in the night but regardless of that, s…
It is not that we are escaping, rather flushing ourselves clean of the modern clutter and simplifying everything if only for a few pleasurable hours. The first sleepy take off and fall and my lazy body is punished and rattled over the reef, then my …
…rade surf jargon, the words of which mean nothing and everything, easy talk at six am so who cares? Then as the first force of the Atlantic rolls off my back, the sea asks the most important question of all “sink or swim sir, sink or swim?”