Wine Regions: DO Cariñena

Welcome to the Kingdom of Aragon. Here the empire of the Moors started to crumble, thousand year-long bonds between countries were made and Kings rose and fell (usually depending on how much they’d had to drink, naturally)

DO Cariñena is a hot, continental wine producing region located in the province of Zaragoza, Aragon. With a wine producing history that stretches back to ancient Roman village of Caræ (50BC), Cariñena has long been associated with quality wine production although it has never quite established itself fully in modern markets. This is quite unusual when you consider it is one of the oldest delimited zones in both Spain and Europe, with demarcation occuring first in 1932 and official denominacion de origen certification coming in 1960. Not only that but it is the accepted birthday of the grape, Cariñena, (Carignan) one of Spains most utilised and famous grape varieties, so quite why it is still a relatively obscure zone is something of a mystery. However, recent trends towards quality wines made from indigenous grapes, Grenache in particular, are starting to see investment and talent flowing back to this ancient area, with new projects already yielding significant success.

The Romans might be portrayed as quite an unpleasant bunch through-out history, but they certainly knew how to party! Wine was a popular drink of choice, with the Romans being the first to start the ‘Cru’ status differentiating quality levels from different countries and regions.

Like much of Spains wine producing regions Cariñena is a plateau, known as Campo de Cariñena, elevated above sea level with vineyards generally located between 400 and 800 metres, higher quality production generally coming from old vines towards the higher altitudes. The soil is a consistent blend of limestone, chalk and slate/alluvial deposits being more commonly found on the lower levels of the slopes. Cariñena has a fully continental climate, meaning very hot, long summers, freezing winters and importantly a large diurnal range, the difference between temperatures during the day and the night, which add significantly to the intensity of the wines here. Rainfall is low at around 300mm a year, so yields are typically low with concentrated fruit and occasional issues with drought in the warmer years. Despite being the namesake of Carignan, only 10% of overall plantings are dedicated to this grape with the vast majority of plantings being Grenache at around 55%; clearly Cariñena is not one for marketing itself on obvious advantages! There are other plantings, mainly of blending partners such as Tempranillo, Monastrell and Cabernet Sauvignon. White wines are most commonly made from Macabeo and White Grenache and rarely achieve acclaim or interest outside of the region.

Disclaimer: I’m not a marketing guy. However, I would imagine that if I was growing grapes in a region called ‘Pinot Noir’ I probably wouldn’t be growing Nebbiolo across 55% or more of all my land.

The style of the wine here is young, fresh and more commonly recently, varietal, with wines being generally quite assertive with warming alcohol, distinctive flavours and a surprisingly fresh acidity. There are, however, some very good Crianza style wines to be had, usually made from a blend of Grenache and Tempranillo, sometimes with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon. The main draw of the region are the old Grenache vines that are now making up a great deal of the exciting wines being produced, although this tends to come from newer producers with more established wineries and co-operatives sticking to the tried and tested blends that have served them well. A combination of this old-and-new approach, with a period of rapid amalgamation of small wineries and co-ops, have seen Cariñena jump up the third largest exporting region in Spain behind only Valencia and Rioja, with over 70% of their production being sold abroad.

Old Vine Grenache has really re-energised interest in the area. The wines are both outstanding value for money and very fashionable at the moment.

In terms of purchasing wines from Cariñena, you are spoilt for choice both within Spain and in international markets. This is partly to do with the recent trend of 100% Grenache wines becoming very popular and partly to do with the incredible effort of DO Cariñena to work on its wine quality and export markets. The wines are typically outstanding value for money, especially as alluded to before, old vine Grenache. Below are some of my favourite producers from the region.

1. Bodega San Valero — http://www.sanvalero.com/

A large and high quality co-operative with over 700 members, Bodega San Valero has a huge portfolio of different wine styles across different price points. My personal favourite here is the ‘Particular’ range, consisting of mainly 100% Grenache wines from different plantations with different production methods. These wines are generally outstanding value for money.

2. Grandes Vinos y Vinedos — http://www.grandesvinos.com/en/index.php

Another large co-operative, Grandes Vinos y Vinedos has a more diverse portfolio, concentrating on both Grenache, Carignan and a variety of other grape varieties and wine styles. Encompassing many product lines, it is most famous for “Anayon”, a range of most varietal wines covering Grenache, Carignan and Chardonnay. Whilst slightly more expensive than many other wines within the region, they are certainly of a high quality.

3. Vinos y Bodegas Pablo — http://www.granviu.com/index_en.html

A small, family ran winery with a history of wine-making going back to the 18th century. With a relatively small portfolio and production, Bodega Pablo is surprisingly modern and innovative, with many different experimental wines coming out from the winery. Recommendation: Menguante Selección Garnacha 2013.