48 Hours in San Sebastian, Spain — a pocket guide to Spain’s culinary capital
San Sebastian, Spain’s culinary darling, is any food lover’s dream destination.
This charming seaside town in the Basque Country is home to some of the world’s best bites. As well as some beautiful sights.
The town sprawls around La Concha, a bay hugging the sparkly Cantabric ocean where locals tan, swim and play. And “el Casco Viejo,” San Sebastian’s Old Town, is a web of narrow but lively streets lined with elegant architecture and some of the best eateries in the world.
With the highest number of Michelin stars per capita, it is clear that the main reason to come to San Sebastian is to eat. The prime thing to do is to go on a pintxo hunt. Pintxos are the equivalent of tapas in the Basque country. And if going on a tapas crawl in Spain is a must, in San Sebastian, it is very, very serious business.
From traditional local bars to Michelin-starred restaurants, San Sebastian will be love at first bite, and you’ll probably want to stay forever. But 48 hours is a perfect time to dip your toes in the sights and flavors SS has to offer.
Get ready to eat, drink and repeat.
And sure, throw in a siesta in the mix for a full Spanish experience.
Things to Do…
Walk along La Concha
One of the city’s biggest icons, La Concha is the main Bay of San Sebastian. With views of Santa Clara Islands just across, La Concha has the most spectacular views. Depending on when you visit, you can catch regattas or local soccer competitions. Or maybe just the locals enjoying the beach and dipping their toes into the water…no matter how cold it is.
Admire the “Peine del Viento” (Wind Comb)
…a series of open-air sculptures at the far end of La Concha by artist Eduardo Chillida. These iron abstract forms represent a dialogue between art and landscape and have become an iconic spot in San Sebastian for both locals and visitors alike.
Drink Cider on the Beach
Take a break from eating, but not from drinking. Do as the locals do and buy a bottle of cider in one of the local shops by the pier and sit on the beach as you drink and watch life go by. Sit on the pier or walk the steps down to the beach and sit on the rocks.
Visit La Tabakalera
An old tobacco factory that was restored and reborn as a cultural center. Here you can catch contemporary art shows and exhibits, as well as movie screenings and workshops.
Go Surfing at Zurriola Beach
Besides being a Foodie’s paradise, San Sebastian is also beloved by surfers. And Zurriola is the best surfing spot for both pros and beginners. You can rent a board and wetsuit (don’t skip the wetsuit, that water will be cold!) and paddle out or take a surf lesson at Zurriola Surf Eskola.
Where to Eat…
Cafe de la Concha
Located front and center in La Concha, it’s the perfect first stop in San Sebastian for some txakoli, the traditional Basque Country wine with the best view. Sit on the terrace for some beach people-watching. And why not, some fried crispy calamari.
La Cuchara de San Telmo
La Cuchara de San Telmo is one of Spain’s most famous restaurants. And with good reason. The food here is incomparable, and the Foie with Apple compote pintxo is nothing less than that. Sorry to spoil you for life, but it’s probably one of the best foie you’ll ever have.
Borda Berry
A small and crowded place where literally everything on the menu is incredibly delicious. But their risotto with Idiazábal cream stands out from the crowd and is life-changing. Seriously, I still think about it often. Come early as things run out and are crossed out from their blackboard menu.
Ganbara
Ganbara is a reference in San Sebastian’s culinary tradition. They have over 100 pintxos to choose from. If you have trouble deciding, you can’t go wrong with the Tartaleta de Txangurro, a crab tartlet, and/or a plate of grilled boletus mushrooms. Pair with some cider or some local beer.
Bar Txepetxa
Bar Txepetxa was the first place I visited on my own pintxo crawl in San Sebastian. With their menu of traditional tapas, it’s the perfect introduction to the flavorful road ahead. It’s well known for its anchovy and spider crab pintxos, as well as its “ gildas”, teeny tiny skewers with olives, anchovies, and peppers.
Fun Fact: These cocktail-stick skewers were named after Rita Hayworth’s role in the movie Gilda.
A Fuego Negro
Modern and youthful tapas. What Fuego Negro lacks in age, it makes up in taste. Come here to explore San Sebastian’s newer side…and for the Kobe Burger.
Bar Nestor
Come very early to try their world-famous Spanish tortilla, which runs out fast. Really fast.
Mugaritz
Away from the tiny pintxos in the Old Town, Mugartiz is a full-fledged restaurant with an avant-garde menu. Located in a rustic farmhouse, they offer a tasting menu full of extravagant bites.
Rekondo
Another actual restaurant for a full dinner experience, but with the best wine around and views of La Concha. Rekondo’s menu displays the best of San Sebastian’s flavors in a high-end way.
Bar Antonio
Venture out of the Old Town to find gems like Bar Antonio. This place is mainly visited by locals for its flavorful bites like langoustine ravioli and arroz meloso (creamy rice).
La Viña
And finally, your trip will not be complete without a stop at La Viña for the sweet finale: the world-famous cheesecake.
Don’t be fooled by its burnt appearance, this crustless dessert is soft and gooey and total perfection. Take it from someone who is not usually a fan of cheesecake.
Where to Stay…
Casco Viejo / Old Town
Stay in the Old Part of town if you want to be right where the action is. Stay on the nearby streets to Calle 31, Old Town’s main vein. That way, you get more peace and quiet during sleeping hours, but you can still start your pintxo hop downstairs.
There are a lot of cute and affordable AirBnb options in the area.
If you prefer the hotel life, Artea Narrika and Hotel SANSEBay are two good mid-range options.
Centro
Centro is the area right along La Concha. If you want to be closer to the surf and the sand, book your accommodation in this area.
A Room in The City Hostel is excellent if you’re visiting San Sebastian on a budget. However, if you want to go full-on bougie, stay at the iconic London Hotel for the best views in town. For something different, stay at San Sebastian’s shopping district at the modern Hotel Arbaso.
Gros
For more local vibes, stay at Gros. The area located east of Old Town and the Center is a laid-back neighborhood within walking distance from most things. Plus, it is way more budget-friendly.
Find your perfect homestay on Airbnb or Booking.com, or check out Hotel Okako and Pension del Mar.
Originally published at https://www.holaemilia.com on January 9, 2023.
