Your Travel Guide to Hvar, Croatia
Where to Rent a Sunbed
You get home from your adventures in the Mediterranean. Your hair is laced with honey-like highlights. You are feeling invigorated, rejuvenated. In your mind's eye, you can still picture the effervescent dazzle of the Adriatic in the noon light, keeping you calm and centered as you return to everyday life. You know you’ve been to somewhere remarkable. And your body is optimally browned from summer days spent lounging beneath enveloping warmth. Isn’t this kind of the dream?
And it’s true: when envisioning sunlight in Croatia, it’s hard not to use words like “effervescence” and “honey”. It’s a very special kind of sunlight. I would even go so far as to call it intoxicating. I mean, who hasn’t felt themselves growing drowsy with tranquility as they soak up rays on the beach? It seems to bathe everything with an encompassing sense of bliss. Like a mellow song, a mother’s hug, a bitter beverage: it soothes the mind, caresses the skin, and perhaps even sends you dosing into trance-like ecstasy. It sounds like I’m being a bit extreme here, and it’s true -- it is, after all, only sun -- but the pleasure of tanning beside lush green palm trees and glistening Mediterranean waters is universal knowledge.
In fact, I’m not sure you can visit Croatia without having “sunbathing” as an underlined point in your itinerary. Sunlight is a way of life here. It permeates the very air with a sense of animation. It’s part of what defines this place as such a dazzling holiday destination. After-all, few places in the whole world have this much pleasant sun. The island of Hvar is no exception: it enjoys a summer that is almost always nice. The sun does not really scorch or burn (probably thanks to there being just that little bit more of an ozone layer here than other places in the globe). Instead, it radiates warmly, sensitively, like an ever-present lover. The hottest temperature recorded for Hvar was 37° C, reached in 1935, and even then, the heat is not smothering like some places in the tropics. And even better, Hvar has, on average, 7.7 hours sunlight in a day to make the most of it.
So, if you’re a sun-lover like me (and I can’t understand why you’ve come to Croatia if you aren’t), you are now probably wondering: where should I go to best enjoy this local delicacy? And if this is indeed what you’re contemplating, then you’re in luck, because I’m about to tell you the best places to hire a sunbed.
And a quick little reminder, guys: don’t forget to apply sunscreen!
NUMBER ONE: BESIDE THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY
The Franciscan Monastery in Hvar is a contemplative beige-stone building, looming, like a past encaptured, next to a popularly frequented pebbled beach. It provides a contrast to the flocking tourists, buzzing restaurants and bleach-white tanning beds, and gives the area an air of history and novelty (it is, in other words, ‘insta-worthy’). This is a beach that is hard to miss, being only a five-minute walk from the center of Hvar Town, and directly around the corner from the port.
Being so central is what makes it such an ideal place to rent a sunbed: surrounded by restaurants, you will be nestled in the ambiance of clinking coffee-cups, jovial conversations, and the reassuring background noise of thriving island life. If you feel peckish, you can simply order a fruit-laden crepe from the crepe stall located there; and wherever you are staying, it is surely not a long trek: so if you wish to include sunbathing near the Monastery as a small part of a big day exploring, it’s an easy venture!
Please keep in mind that walking through Hvar Town in just a swim-suit will land you with a hefty fine! So remember to reclothe, no matter how much you’re enjoying the sun.
And how much you might ask? Quite a typical price: the sign reads “50 kn per day”, with an additional 20 kn for if you would like to invest in an umbrella.
NUMBER TWO: POKONJI DOL BEACH
Pokonji Dol beach is equal parts quaint and delightful. Roughly a twenty-minute walk from the center of Hvar, one must navigate along a rocky path downhill to discover it, but luckily, it is well worth being found. The view of Pokonji Dol from the top of said hill is cinematic, expansive; charming enough to perhaps even warrant stopping to take a snap. Still -- bring a pair of sturdy shoes for the walk!
You can see the waterfront restaurants (there are two of fine quality), the glistening turquoise waves, and the generally dense throng of sunbathers. The sunbeds cover the beach -- it’s pebbled and seaweed-laden and not really a conducive environment to simply throw down a towel. So if you are seeking a little bit of comfort as well as some sunshine, renting a sunbed here is essential.
But, in my opinion, quite worth the 60 kn. The water is cool at Pokonji Dol -- a refreshing way to prevent overheating, so if you wish, you could back-and-forth between swimming and tanning all day. The restaurants serve Long Island Iced Teas and hot espressos and even cream-heavy iced coffees. Locals lounge with their dogs, children splash in the waves, and ringing the perimeter of the beach is a walkway dappled by shade. Pokonji Dol is a location best suited to a few hours commitment, given the walk it takes to arrive there, but with so many options for exquisite cuisine and such a pleasant ambiance, I don’t see why you’d want to spend any less.
NUMBER THREE: JEROLIM
The Pakleni Islands, located off the southwest coast of Hvar Island, are less than fifteen minutes away by taxi boat, which will cost you, depending on the season, between 40 and 60 kn for a return journey. The name, “pakleni”, derives from a pine resin that used to be utilized to create waterproof boats. Lonely Planet describes the islands as “a chain of wooded isles”, and Jerolim is the closest of these isles. It’s a little bit of a special place. Let me explain why.
Have you ever returned home from holiday, pleased with the tan on your legs, your arms -- but alas, your body is now patterned with these pesky little things called tanlines? If you’re one for perfection -- a complete, all-over, natural tan -- then Jerolim is the place to venture for you, because it just so happens to be naturist. That is, nudist. Upon first venturing to Jerolim beach, you will be met with a sign proclaiming: “ALL NUDISTS WELCOME: SINCE 1896”. And the sign sure isn’t lying. In fact, in 2011, CNN named it as the top naturist beach in the world.
The beach, the woods on the beach, the whole island, is full of naked people! Which may not be your cup of tea (and this is fine); but the thing is, people go to be in their own space. It’s expected, understood, and respected. But of course, each to his own -- it’s perfectly acceptable to keep your swimsuit on when at Jerolim, too. If you’re prepared that you may see people, and that they might be seeing you, then you could be pleasantly surprised by the reality that it is quite a peaceful -- almost introspective place -- to carefully position your towel on the rocks and doze off in the sunlight.
And that is an option, of course: if you are seeking more seclusion, simply follow the path leading right when you first arrive on the island, and you will find dozens of rocky outcrops strewn here and there with sunbathers. On these rocks it is not sunbeds so much as “sun-bean bags” that can be hired for the day, for the cost of 50 kn, which is just as comfy and awesome as it sounds.
But if you’re game to try being a naturalist in a less secluded space (or are game to sunbathe around potential naturalists), then Jerolim Beach itself is beautiful, and sunbeds are for rent here for 60 kn. Bikini optional!
NUMBER FOUR: PALMIZANA
Palmizana beach is widely regarded as a must-see tourist location. Located on the island of Klement, it is both naturally beautiful, and perhaps the most interesting destination on the islands. In other words, Palmizana is more than just a beach: in fact, it has been named one of the top ten tourist destinations in the Adriatic. It is also known as “the island of the rosemary”, due to the abundance of rosemary that blooms there several times per annum. And tourism was established there over a hundred years ago!
But why specifically should I go to Palmizana, you ask?
For one, the cuisine, which the German Magazine Boote named some of the best in the Mediterranean. Palmizana offers many scrumptious seafood specialties -- lobsters, fish, shellfish, scampi (and the list goes on). Meneghello estate are the tourism pioneers: they have added an art gallery and arboretum to Palmizana, which gives it a sense of great variety and culture not available on the other Pakleni Islands. And Palmizana offers something for everyone; some of the islands are the perfect tranquil escape, and some are bustling, bordering on crowded. If you are seeking more calm, the often-deserted Vlaka beach offers both kayaks and sunbeds. And Vlaka is even home to the remains of a Roman settlement and mud bath! Palmizana is perhaps the most essential Hvar destination: full of exotic nature and animals, culture, and something for everyone. You can expect to pay 60kn to hire a sunbed there, in addition to the cost of the taxi boat.
Truly, though, worth the cost.
NUMBER FIVE: MLINI BEACH
Mlini Beach is a decided contrast to the bustle of Palmizana. For those seeking an unrivaled serenity, Mlini offers azure water, a perimeter of pensive pines, and not only smooth rocks to recline on, but a selection of four-poster sunbeds. Sounds almost celestial, doesn’t it? Mlini is laid-back, a deep breath. To risk sounding a little cliche: it’s a slice of paradise.
The ocean floor is sandy, the areas are roped off for swimming, and makes a quiet place to settle in and soak up a sunset. Located on the island of Marinkovac -- the same island that hosts Carpe Diem Beach Bar -- Mlini is an easily accessed spot with taxi boats leaving from 10:00 am-1:00 pm every day, returning from 4 pm in the afternoon, but be sure to double-check with the taxi boat drivers for specific times before you venture off. When you arrive at Marinkovac, turn right and follow the signs to Mlini Beach (it will only take you a few minutes).
Mlini is ideal for a full day of relaxation in the sun.
NUMBER SIX: HULA-HULA BEACH BAR
Have you ever considered sunbathing in the middle of a party? Well, then renting a bed at the Hula-Hula Bar might be for you.
Situated with lavish views of the ocean, Hula-Hula is acclaimed for its stunning sunset backdrop, but during the sunset hours, it transforms into a pulsating playground of bikini-clad dancers and a range of delicious cocktails. Hula-Hula has a wild atmosphere; a quintessentially “island” style party.
As the sun goes down, the music is blazing and it’s very crowded. If you would like to soak up the sun whilst ordering high-quality drinks, make sure to arrive early: the beds get taken quickly. And, if you order food, you get a free chair.
And last, but not least… Have you considered sunbathing on a boat?
You might argue the semantics that hiring a boat isn’t really hiring a sunbed, per se: but I am a firm believer that things are what you make them. Why couldn’t a boat be a creative alternative option? What’s not to like: picture soaking up the rays whilst cruising with friends; perhaps listening to your own selected tunes, or nibbling on a prepacked lunch with a bottle of red. And the excellent thing about hiring your own boat is that you can steer it to any of the beaches that you wish! The whole day could be a sunbathing adventure, exploring islands at your leisure with friends.
Truly, tanning on your own boat on the Adriatic must be the epitome of “living the life”; a unique Croatian experience that would not be easily replicated anywhere else in the world. Whilst the 500 kn (400 out of season) may seem expensive, split between six the cost is incredibly reasonable.
So there you have it. Six of the best places to hire a sunbed in Hvar (and one creative alternative to boot)!
Time to slather up on the sunscreen, plug in the tunes, and relax.
On the Water in Croatia
Ask any local what sets Croatia apart from the rest of the world, and they will tell you the same thing: the sea. The glistening, expansive, too-blue-to-be-true sea, beside which sprawl’s Croatia’s dazzling beach-side resorts, candlelit fine-dining, and grandiose Roman ruins.
From your very arrival in Hvar, you are encapsulated in ocean — the most common way to arrive is by a catamaran, after all. If you’re anything like me, you no doubt struggled from said catamaran, toting too much luggage, beads of sweat materialising doggedly on your forehead, and had no choice but to stop, open-mouthed, thinking, is it really possible for a place to be so exquisite? And at the end of the day, the locals are right: the exquisiteness does come down to the ocean. This isn’t to say the harsh, tropical landscape isn’t lovely (it is), or that the ruins aren’t transfixing (they are), simply that Croatia is such a thriving tourist local for its unrivalled coastline.
The fact is that here, you can watch red stain endless waters every night during the sunset. Here, you can enjoy said sun beating heavily upon you and then turn, for quick relief, into cool turquoise waves: waves so clear you can see the fish underneath! Here you can lounge beside a Franciscan Monastery whose pale, contemplative beige stones make a striking contrast next to a tourist-strewn swimming hotspot.
Yes, water is the beating sapphire heart of this Mediterranean paradise, and I am here to tell you how to get the most of it during your stay. It’s not hard to do, either: all you need is a pouch full of kuna and a few free days. On arrival into Hvar Town, one is immediately immersed in alley-like streets whose shops read terrifically and boldly: “BLUE CAVE EXPLORATION”, “JET-SKI HIRE”, “KAYAKING”, and even “SCUBA-DIVING”. With so much variety, how to choose?
I am going to be focusing on the most quintessentially Croatian water experiences, and the most noteworthy. After all, it surely isn’t often that you find yourself adventuring in such a thrilling foreign country, so why not make the most of it? Below are my recommendations for a diverse and exhilarating water exploration from Hvar.
The first: a speed boat to the blue and green caves.
This is a day-long commitment, but surely worth the time divested; the blue and green caves are Croatian staples and famous locations for a reason. The tour is eight hours basking under sunlight within your own private speedboat, and it is customizable. The website boasts that you can “cruise beneath the dramatic cliffs of Stiniva Bay… cool off with a swim in the Green Cave… hop off at Palmizana village… snorkel at the palm-fringed beaches of Vis Island…” All that and more! Naturally, it is not the cheapest excursion (roughly 470 euros for a boat that fits up to four), but it seems value for money considering the extensive amount it allows you to see. Run by a husband and wife team, it is easy to book online at m.viator.com. Alternatively, simply pop into the tourist agency “Explore Hvar”, at Riva 21, 21 450 Hvar. Their number is +385 (0)21 247 527, and their e-mail is explorehvar.gmail.com. Explore Hvar offers a diverse range of experiences including their Blue & Green Cave Tour, and a benefit of booking via them is that their tour includes snorkeling gear, life jackets, drinking water, an icebox, and passenger insurance. What more could you want?
Following in this luxurious vein, sailing provides a dynamic alternative to a speed-boat. With many of the same locations on offer, sailing has the benefit of offering half-day and sunset trips, and in fact, Croatia may even be the most popular sailing destination currently in Europe. Hvar, in particular, is a spectacle from a sailboat. Perhaps, for this reason, there is an abundance of sailing opportunities on offer. Sailing the Hvar archipelago is much cheaper than a full-day speed boat excursion (138 euro), and only 60 euro for a half-day excursion. For more information, visit this website.
And when talking about sailing in Croatia, surely observing the sun setting over the ocean from a boat is simply unmissable? There is a dedicated itinerary for those wishing to watch the sunset from their boats: a late afternoon sailing tour, which includes swimming and snorkeling (and a glass of wine), takes participants out to the Pakleni islands archipelago, allows you to soak up the sunset, and return for a timely dinner in Hvar at 8:00 pm. This trip is four hours and you must have a minimum of two people to book. Once again, it is a very reasonable 65 euro. If this seems your thing, the company offering the excursion is contactable on +385 91 26 38 046, or info@croatia-active.com.
Croatia is a diverse country, and similarly, its waters offer many diverse opportunities. In a different vein, the Viking Diving Centre is only a twenty-minute walk west of Hvar Town and has plenty to offer, whether you are a scuba diving enthusiast or a newbie. Damalta’s Adriatic is a splendid and vibrant underwater adventure, and can be easily accessed: the Diving Centre offers a “first-try” for 66 Euro, which includes thirty minutes of diving with a trained professional.
And finally, there is a positive abundance of water-sports for the adventurous at heart. Hvar Tours offers flyboarding, banana-boating, water beds, water-skiing, wakeboarding, inner tube, sup paddle, and more. Hvar Tours can arrange to bring their toys to a location that suits you, and everything can be booked online. According to their website, you can also book in person at: “the Hvar Tours DMC office on the main square, or on the pier in front of Hotel Amfora… or in the booth by the Amfora pool entrance.”
And just in case (like this traveller right here), you don’t actually know what half of these things are, don’t worry. I’ve done the research, and I’m here to fill you in on which of them are worth your time. The unfortunate answer is, they kind of all look awesome!
Banana-boating: Defined as: “An unpowered, inflatable recreational boat meant to be towed.” According to the size of the boat, it may accommodate anywhere between three to ten riders. It is called a “banana boat” as the main tube is often yellow and banana-shaped. Makes sense? Banana-boating means splashing through water, fast. It’s exhilarating and yes, perhaps, a little scary. It may even begin to feel like you’re flying. And, if you’re a beginner, chances are you might fall off: but don’t fear, the cool ocean water is sure to be a blessed contrast to the balmy Croatian sun!
Flyboarding: Have you ever wanted to be iron man? And if you haven’t yet ever dreamed of how awesome it would be to be iron man, are you ready to start imagining now? Because flyboarding is essentially being a water-bound, adrenaline-seeking superhero. Instead, instead of an iron-man suit, you have a little thing called a hydroflight device. You, the rider, will be connected to the watercraft by a hose. If you want to get even less technical, think of it a little like a jet pack. And apparently, flyboarding is not such a challenging craft to master; no worse than say, snowboarding, and those of you that have already had experience with those sports should have a natural inclination. Still, balance and agility are required: don’t expect to necessarily be a pro on your first try. But if you are indeed intrigued by the idea of skimming and flying through the water like some kind of dolphin, then flyboarding may well be for you. According to Flyboard Hvar, the cost for one averages at eighty euro per person. And keep in mind, though I have listed prices in euros, if you are paying in person, I said “pouch of kuna” for a reason — most places only accept the local currency.
Inner tube: Inner tubing, or simply tubing, is: “a recreational activity where an individual rides on top of an inner tube, either on water, snow, or through the air.” In this case of course, we’re talking water. And here’s a little interesting tidbit: according to Time Magazine, tubing was purportedly invented in Thailand, by a princess. Pretty cool, hey? Tubing is not so hard to understand: you ride on a tube! Or, in the inner-tubing lingo, a donut.
Sup paddle: Sup paddling: otherwise known as stand-up paddleboarding, which kind of makes sense, when you think about it. You use a surf-style board and a paddle stick. And then, if you hadn’t guessed it, you paddle! You are propelled only your own movements, so it is, in fact, an excellent workout and apparently an effective de-stressor. A little like yoga on water: perhaps an ideally slow-paced challenge for those seeking some island tranquility.
There are surely few other places in the world as connected to the water as the Mediterranean; and few as stunning, lush, and inviting as Croatia. What’s more, Hvar has the ultimate range of water experiences, whether you are a young couple, solo traveller or on a family vacation; whether you want to feel ultimate thrills, explore the history and natural sublimity, indulge in an island sunset, or jump into the enigmatic unknown of underwater life. So now I leave the choice up to you. But don’t worry. In a place like this, it’s hard to go wrong.
So, kick back, dive in, and enjoy!
Why go to Milna?
Why go to Milna? Well, for the crickets. Yes, you read that right.
Let me explain: Milna, a cove with two sandy beaches, is a little slice of tranquility, a sweet sigh of relaxation in comparison to the glam and bustle of Hvar Town. Nestled underneath quintessentially Croatian hills — stark, sun-baked, and rock-strewn, bursting with tufts of emerald green — Milna exists quietly. The air is permeated by the soothing backdrop of these aforementioned crickets. The beaches, if you time your visit right, are sparsely populated: a languid mixture of clinking pebbles, sun-bathing locals, and water that glistens dazzlingly under a heady Mediterranean sun. The cove is laden with pine-trees: a getaway for those who find pleasure in solitude, contemplation, or who simply wish to unwind after a long night out.
With a selection of places to eat and even a marketplace, it is an ideal day-trip for a family too. Only 6km (3 miles) away from Hvar Town, Milna is easily accessible by car or scooter. Scooter hire is around 200 kn for a day and can be booked at the Villa Marija reception. However, the bus ride is convenient — less than ten minutes — and only 38 kn. The bus-stop in Hvar is located directly up from the Town Square, although if you find yourself lost, the friendly locals are more than willing to direct you on your way. From the Milna bus-stop, it is a pleasant stroll downhill to the beach.
Alternately, if you are looking for a more adventurous excursion, it is possible to catch a 10 am boat from Hvar Harbour, for the cost of roughly 25 kn; on the way back, it is possible to complete a 1.5hr hike, winding through the lush scenery and enjoying the island’s jaw-droppingly picturesque views. A word of warning about this hike: it is not, I found personally, signed altogether excellently. You will be treated to cinematic views of an astoundingly blue ocean against a backdrop of rugged hills, but the pathway often diverges, without signage. So if you’re content to, like me, wander aimlessly beneath an ever-present beating sun, praying that you’re going in the right direction, then, by all means, enjoy. My advice: ask the ever-friendly locals before setting off on the hike about which path to take. And of course, if wishing to forego the boat, one can hike either to or from Milna. The hike begins from Hvar at Pokonji Dol, a popular pebbled beach roughly twenty minutes walk from the center of the town.
Another tip: beyond the first beach, through the campsite, and then beyond the second beach — where the hike to Hvar Town from Milna begins — there are rocky paths leading upwards over the hill. If you would like an utterly solitary natural hideaway, follow the path over said hill, and you will find a boat-strewn, stunning bay, with plenty of big rocks and hidden niches littering the area where you can lay down your towel.
Milna boasts at least seven restaurants serving local cuisine, such as fresh fish and wines, even homemade olive oil; some restaurants are perched right beside the sea-side. And if looking for sea cuisine, go no further than Konoba Lambik: a seafood restaurant described by patrons giddily as “the best in Hvar”. It’s not hard to understand why. Konoba Tavern, nestled in an olive grove, makes their own wine, and it is even possible to order rare Adriatic squid. Konoba Tavern — like Milna itself — is simmered with an authentic Dalmatian ambiance.
If looking to unwind for more than a day trip, there certainly is accommodation available, although there is only a general store, not a supermarket (supplies should perhaps be bought first in Hvar Town, if needed). And sorry backpackers, no hostels in Milna, although Hotel Fortuna comes highly recommended: beachfront, and, according to their website, “featuring balconies… with views of the Adriatic Sea…” with “free Wi-Fi and flat-screen TVs”. Doesn’t sound too shabby, does it? Hotel Fortuna comes more on the expensive side (averaging between 600–800 HRK a night) but the B&B Chamberlain in Malo Grablje is close to both Hvar Town and Milna and is very reasonably priced. Families can also book apartments or a villa, if they so wish — there is even a camping ground right beside the beach.
However, even if you do not stay at the Hotel Fortuna itself, it still may be worth venturing inside to experience Restaurant Fortuna. More of a family location than Konoba Tavern, patrons have praised Restaurant Fortuna for serving “the best pizza” (ever!); one review even claims that they may be “the best meal in Croatia” (certainly no easy feat) — Restaurant Fortuna is, in essence, a wonderfully beach-side establishment that also serves kid-friendly, well-priced chocolate pancakes. What more could you want?
Speaking of Malo Grablje, if interested in architecture, and delving deeper into true Croatian culture, Malo Grablje is a village not to be missed. It is a place of gorgeous, older stone buildings proud in their character — some are abandoned, and even more charming for it; the nature overgrowing them speaks of an untouched past, a Croatian way of life, that perhaps might be missed in the more tourism-focused Hvar Town. In this sense, Milna, and the surrounding area is a deep breath, a peaceful contrast — a place to unwind.
So, why go to Milna?
Now, Milna is, at its essence, a seaside village; a true getaway. It is not lacking in culture either: Milna even boasts a 17th-century Baroque-Renaissance style mansion. So go for that backdrop serenade of insects chirping lazily. For immersion in untouched, striking Croatian nature. For iridescent seas unbesmirched by flocking tourists, and marketplaces selling rare local-wares. Go to read a book in your private villa surrounded by family, or to clink glasses in a quiet restaurant overlooking your own, gorgeous, Mediterranean sunset. After-all, Alfred Hitchcock himself — master of cinematography — claimed that the Croatian sunset is the most striking in the globe, and what better place to observe it than in seclusion?
