Grime and Gluttony

Skimming through Lima’s tale of two cities

Lima has 9 million people and a lot of them were trying to hustle us into their cabs as soon as we passed through the arrival gate at Jorge Chavez International. I wore my small backpack in front and watched everything — thus watched nothing — in a superficial attempt to prevent someone from stealing my passport or laptop. The airport was a crowded mess of baggage and American brands walking around on people.

We finally found the ride that the hostel had coordinated for us and hopped into a van with windows all along the sides. A busy night. Maybe all nights were like this in Lima. It was about 5 minutes into our ride that our cab driver looked back nervously at where I was. He was agitated by something. He motioned at me or beside me where my small backpack was.

Muz looked back over his shoulder. “Butt, put your bag on the floor. Sometimes people see nice stuff, smash the window, and snatch it.”

I shoved my bag down between my feet. The cab driver nodded and smiled. I thought about our big backpacks almost on display behind me.

We drove for 45 minutes through what felt like mayhem now that every pedestrian was potentially a smash-and-grabber. The road kicked up dirt and dust and drivers improvised lanes. Buses were elongated vans crammed with contorted passengers. We passed strip mall after strip mall lined with clubs, seedy casinos, food joints, and many American stores.

Then we arrived in Miraflores. I didn’t realize we were in a different place until the blanket of night lifted and the sun eased us awake in the morning.

Miraflores.

Got it? That’s what Miraflores is. Also, populate that picture with beautiful, wealthy people. Not too many. It isn’t crowded. It’s leisurely and comfortable and better than the place you live in.

We ate at Pe(s)cados Capitales for lunch.

Pecado means ‘sin’ and Pescado means ‘fish.’ It’s wordplay that translates into a hilarious menu and a wonderfully delicious religion. I had a shrimp causa. It was my first causa. It was unbelievable causa. What is causa? It’s one of my favourite dishes. Oh you’ve never had it before? Hmph. Interesting.

Causa has a seasoned mashed potato base with something on top. In this case it was perfectly grilled shrimp, juiced with a tangy flavour and a bit of spice. It’s probably the best dish I’ve ever had.

Here’s the thing that South Americans know. Peru has the best food on the continent and Lima is one of the standouts in the country.

The next day we got a reservation at Centrale, one of the 50 best restaurants in the world. We arrived on the corner where the restaurant is supposed to be. There were no facades facing either side of the street. There was another restaurant that we almost walked into when our cab driver pointed to an innocuous door where a man kinda stood, maybe watching the door, maybe watching the cars close-by. We walked up to him and mumbled ‘Centrale?’ He stepped back, opened the door, and let us in.

They don’t want people stumbling upon this place. You have to know this place exists, and presumably you know it exists because you know the right people (hi Val!). Once we stepped in the place — as scrubbily dressed as we were — we were treated cordially (although we were seated alone upstairs, the main floor did seem full, but you can read this either way you want). We were attended to by a waiter who was only responsible for us.

The food was flawlessly prepared.

My fish was crispy and yet moist and it came with a beautifully seasoned mashed potato and calamari sauce. It was excellent, but (I feel like a philistine for saying this) the flavour was not as exciting as the causa at Pescados Capitale. My dessert though was one of the most creative things I’ve ever had. It had a variety of textures and flavours like crunchy mint, hot chocolate sauce, crumbly dark chocolate, and creamy chocolate ice cream. It came with a rich foamy chocolate cappuccino.

That night we ate at Astrid y Gaston. We walked through the thin and yet auspicious door without a reservation.

Again we were dressed shabbily (it is difficult and stupid to take nice clothes on extended travels). The place was legitimately full, but the hostess seated us after a few minutes of scoping things out. It was a miracle because the food was miraculous.

It would be wrong to say that this experience destroyed Centrale, but it was unanimously better. I still think the causa from Pescados Capitale was my favourite dish, but Astrid’s five courses were a complete experience.

I can’t believe the incredible food the people of Miraflores have access to every day. This may have ruined food for me. Maybe that’s what happened to the people who smash windows. They had one good meal at Astrid and then couldn’t have anymore for some reason and they’re so angry now that they smash windows. I can’t think of anything worse. Yeah, that’s probably what it is.