The Great Temple Pyramid: A Journey through Cholula, Mexico
For one of my birthdays, I wanted to experience the ancient and spiritual but did not have time to travel to India. I usually look south when I need a dose of what feels like my own culture and the warmth of the people. Thus, I began planning to visit Puebla and the ancient holy city of Cholula, Mexico, along with fellow enthusiasts who had just been on a group trip to India with me. The Pyramid had been on my mind for a while. Cholula is a city that boasts an intriguing blend of history and culture, with its ancient pagan temples and ruins serving as a testament to its glory and bloody past. Located in the state of Puebla, Cholula is home to numerous archaeological sites that provide a glimpse into the city’s pre-Columbian roots, which were of most interest to me. Cholula’s ancient sites are inspiring and touristy, and the landscape allows one the freedom to breathe. We stayed at a boutique hotel (birthday opulence) in Puebla City and then caught cabs wherever needed.
History
The Great Pyramid of Cholula is Mesoamerica’s largest and oldest continuously occupied building. It was constructed in multiple stages, influenced initially by Teotihuacan and later by the Gulf Coast region. It was a significant religious site dedicated to mountain worship and a rain deity until the Spanish Conquest. The ancient city of Cholula was once an important center for pre-Columbian Mesoamerican cultures. The Great Pyramid of Cholula, which served as a Temple, is THE attraction. Standing at ~217 feet tall, it is the largest Pyramid in the world in terms of volume. Cholula means a place of refuge, and this city stands 180 feet above the surrounding area. The Pyramid boasts almost twice the volume with a four times larger base than the Great Pyramid of Giza, Egypt. Visitors can take a tour of the archaeological sites — guided or unguided, which includes the famous Pyramid and many other ancient temples and ruins finally ending up at the serene building which seems like a monastery but is a museum. The Pyramid was built by the indigenous people of the region, who used it for various ritual purposes, but much about it is still unknown. I have seen pyramids in Central America, and after spending years reading about commonalities between ancient cultures from the East and the West, the Pyramid at Cholula seems to have a spiritual quality that one cannot precisely pinpoint but can feel.
Today, visitors can climb to the top, take in stunning views of the surrounding landscape, and walk through the underground tunnels carved in 1931 by archaeologists to understand the layered structure of the Pyramid better. It takes a few hours to go through the remarkable tunnels, and one is constantly aware of the length and breadth of the massive structure above and around. Buses full of school children also line up for the tunnels, so plan to visit accordingly. It is believed that construction of the Pyramid took a while and that new rulers kept building on top of the old structure. The locals know this as Tlachihualtepetl or hill made by hand; folks are aware that this is not a natural structure but a phenomenal achievement in architecture built by the ancients, and archeological excavations have discovered massacre victims, including 650 skeletons and 400 burial sites reminding us about the bloody history of the conquistadors and the fight that Moctezuma put up to save this indigenous sacred land. Cholula was designated a World UNESCO Heritage site in 1987 and continues to captivate pagans like myself and other enthusiasts worldwide.
Pagan Sites
Aside from the Great Pyramid, there are many other notable pagan temples and ruins in Cholula. One such site is the Templo de San Gabriel, also known as the Templo de la Virgen de los Remedios. Spanish conquerors built it atop the Great Pyramid of Cholula in the 16th century to impose Christianity on the indigenous people. Today, it still serves as a popular pilgrimage site, especially during the Virgin of the Remedies festival. Other sites include the Temple of the Sun, the Temple of the Moon, and the Temple of the Feathered Serpent. These structures and architecture remind one of the pyramids and carvings at Teotihuacan, also a pre-Columbian site that links the Pyramid of the Moon, the Pyramid of the Sun, and the Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the feathered Serpent Deity). One account from a Spanish administrator mentions that Cholula housed a pagan shrine on top of the Temple Pyramid, which was dedicated to Chiconauquiahuitl, the Goddess of the nine rains. Each of these structures has a unique history and significance, and one cannot be reminded of the similarities of the serpent imagery and worship still prevalent in other parts of the world, especially the Indian subcontinent. Goddess temples are often built on hilltops or higher elevations, and those colonizing the ancient lands built churches atop the ancient Temples. One gets the same feeling of the Divine Feminine presence in what is now a church while visiting Taxco.
There is much more to the Great Temple Pyramid than meets the eye. Much of it is underground and holds spiritual significance. Archaeologists have discovered that the Temple Pyramid underwent multiple constructions, each adding to its height and importance as a ritual site. There is evidence of an interior chamber and “mines or caves” within the Pyramid, which may have held symbolic significance as a portal to the underworld. The Pyramid’s orientation towards the sunset on the summer solstice suggests a cosmological meaning, with the temple on top illuminated by the last rays of light on the longest day of the year (McCafferty, 1996). The first construction stage consisted of a square pyramid with architectural remains on the top platform, dating to the Terminal Formative period and showing connections to Teotihuacan. It is difficult to imagine that the remains of ancient rituals and ceremonies performed thousands of years ago are beneath our feet. However, for those interested in experiencing their spiritual journey, the Temple-Pyramid of Cholula still offers an opportunity to connect with the sacred energy of the land. Like some worship rituals and imagery seen in other parts of Mesoamerica, the Serpent and the Divine Feminine have a dominating, spiritual presence in Cholula.
According to McCafferty, The Great Pyramid of Cholula had two cosmological principles influencing its location and orientation. Firstly, it was built over a natural spring, although its symbolic significance remains unclear. An interior chamber resembling an artificial cave, potentially representing a portal to the underworld, was discovered within the Pyramid. Secondly, the Pyramid was oriented towards the sunset on the summer solstice, with the western staircase facing in that direction, possibly highlighting its connection to celestial events and serving as a sacred space (1996). The symbolic significance of the early stages of the Great Pyramid remains unclear, but there are indications of ritual control over time and creation. The Pyramid’s location over a spring suggests control over terrestrial waters, similar to the Temple of the Feathered Serpent. The orientation of the Pyramid towards the setting sun at the summer solstice adds another layer of symbolism, with its summit being the last spot illuminated by the dying sun. The association of Quetzalcoatl with Postclassic Cholula is well-established, both in historical accounts and iconography.
Folklores
Cholula is a must-visit for pagans, history buffs alike, and those interested in folktales. There is a sad lore about the love between an Aztec Princess, Iztaccihuatl, and a warrior in the tribe, Popoca, and how the Gods were touched by their love and sacrifice to turn their bodies into volcanos — Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl — which still throws up smoke as if reminding his beloved that he is watching over her. For anyone interested in spirituality and experiencing energies at different places around the globe, Cholula offers a blend of the ancient and modern. This place also boasts the mother of sauce — the Cholula hot sauce crafted from chile de arbol and piquin peppers and spices. Puebla, too, is known to be the birthplace of mole poblano sauce. The traditional food is delicious, though vegetarians must be alert to maintain their dietary regimen. However, there is a bottom-up movement in Mexico where pre-Columbian foods — much of which are vegetarian-friendly — are gaining popularity, and one can find any vegan and vegetarian eateries and items on the menu fairly quickly. The boutique hotel where I stayed focused on a menu with pre-Hispanic roots and non-GMO maize with a vegetarian section on every menu, so it was a memorable birthday overall.
References & Readings:
Chadwick, R. (1971). Native pre-Aztec history of central Mexico. In Handbook of Middle American Indians, Volumes 10 and 11: Archaeology of Northern Mesoamerica (pp. 474–504). University of Texas Press.
Durán, D. (1971). Book of the Gods and Rites and the Ancient Calendar (Vol. 102). University of Oklahoma Press.
McCafferty, G. G. (1996). Reinterpreting the great pyramid of Cholula, Mexico. Ancient Mesoamerica, 7(1), 1–17.
Image credit: Pexels, edited.
Originally published at https://academiaindica.com.
