A love letter from an emerald labyrinth

Katja Hollaar
7 min readFeb 26, 2024

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Have you truly witnessed the majesty of the jungle? A photographic Odyssey through the nature’s wildest cathedral.

a magic sunrise in the jungle. Photo by author

These days, I wander into the verdant embrace of the jungle before sunrise — crossing the veil, as the Na’vi would say, into a primordial world pulsing with pure biosynthetic energy. The humid air envelops me like a lover’s caress, thick with musky scents of damp earth and decaying matter. There’s something powerfully resonant, almost sacred, about witnessing life’s primal rhythms and unembellished realities while the human world slumbers.

For me as a wildlife photographer, the jungle is an endless master class in sharpening my senses. Some of the most breathtaking moments have arisen from simply being still. Silence before the shot. Not the absence of sound, but a deep listening, a tuning of the senses to the jungle’s rhythm. It’s a slow pulse, patient and ancient, punctuated by the roars of howler monkeys, the rustle of a hidden snake, the cacophony of buzzing cicadas. In this quietude, the ego shrinks, swallowed by the immensity of the ecosystem. I am no longer just a photographer, a writer, a human — I am a witness, a drop in the ocean of life. In that hushed presence, I become a humbled student, the jungle my evergreen mentor.

yellow-throated toucan. Photo by author

To capture the perfect image, I must first learn the intimate ways of my subjects. Their behaviors and survival strategies, diets and seasonal rituals, the subtle cues of mating and rearing offspring. The jungle generously shares these teachings if I have the patience and reverence to receive them.

I observe the jungle’s reptilian inhabitants through an attentive lens — the stoic basilisks and a profusion of colorful frogs guarding priceless offspring on their backs. I’m perpetually awed by the industrious ant tribes and the metamorphosis of jewel-toned butterflies emerging from camouflaged chrysalises, its wings the colors of a forgotten dream. This wilderness constantly instructs me in photographic arts — revealing the aesthetics of negative space, the play of chiaroscuro shadows, and working around the challenges of its filtered light.

the colorful and challenging subjects of the undergrowth, the still, the hidden, the nocturnal. All photos by author.

Sunlight fractures through the canopy in a living kaleidoscope, casting marbled patterns on the jungle floor — an infinite geometric canvas of light and shadow. This is not just my home, it’s my muse, a paradoxical sanctuary of brutal rawness and transcendent beauty. The jungle demands everything: resilience amidst suffocating humidity, forgiveness for mosquito bites, and above all, presence.

Being present and observe rewards with unforgettable moments. Like the time a puma materialized from the shadows, its molten eyes reflecting the setting sun — a fleeting glimpse into an elusive existence. Or watching a mother sloth cradling her baby with tender vulnerability.

the magical encounters, the fleeting moments of being able to glimpse their hidden lives. All photos by author.

I develop deepening awe for the sacred giants and the smallest creatures alike. The buttressed guardians who have towered over this labyrinth since long before human consciousness. The ceiba’s immensity and the miniature kaleidoscopic beauty of a hummingbird’s iridescent plumage both leave me breathless with wonder.

these towering jungles have been around millennia ago. All photos by author.

I’m struck by the incongruous coexistence of two opposing truths. The jungle thrives on a cycle of death and rebirth, where beauty and brutality are intertwined. One day, I watch a tropical chicken snake stalk and eventually swallow its prey. The raw power of nature leaves me speechless, a vivid reminder of the delicate balance that sustains this ecosystem. The next, I stumble upon a butterfly emerging from its chrysalis, its wings the colors of a forgotten dream. The tension vibrates in the air, a constant hum of struggle and survival.

the lightning-fast strike of this tropical chicken snake meant the inevitable end for this big toad. Photo by author.

Yet, amidst the strife, there are whispers of collaboration. Some trees offer their roots as a support to other trees, otherwise doomed to collapse. The army ants march in synchronized ranks, protecting the rainforest canopy from invaders. The strangler fig — that picturesque murderer — constrict an inescapable embrace around its host tree until it dies, only to cradle an entire ecosystem within its hollow corpse afterwards. It’s a paradox, a unity of competition and cooperation, a reminder that even in the chaos, life finds a way.

inside the strangle fig, the beautiful murderer who killed maybe five trees to form this impressive cathedral. Photo by author.

Nature abhors a vacuum, and always remains preoccupied with new plastic formations.
Henry David Thoreau

It’s an incalculable, self-sustaining organic masterpiece and I feel privileged to witness its kaleidoscope of survival where the resplendent and ruinous are equally worthy in nature’s unwavering eye.

Each ephemeral encounter leaves me with primordial awe and childlike wonder, a humbling reminder of the interconnectedness of all the things, big and small, in nature.

We are part of the earth and the recycling of elements… we simply transform the materials we have inherited from the universe.
Sebastião Salgado

In moments of synchronistic grace, the jungle’s wild residents beckon us back into intimate relationship. Scarlet macaws erupt in rapturous mating displays right outside our porch, their vibrant plumage a sublime reminder of nature’s sacred creative force. Bruno the emboldened coati scampering underfoot hoping for fallen fruit, his bright eyes meeting mine with gleaming consciousness. An opossum devouring a ripe banana mere feet away, undeterred by our delighted presence. An anteater nonchalantly rummaging right outside our bedroom as if appraising new sleeping quarters.

the chances to witness the daily lives of the jungle’s residents, sometimes right outside our porch. All photos by author.
love is in the air, literally! The passion and tenderness of this ritual has been so surprising! Photo by author.

We don’t just observe the ecosystem’s interwoven dynamics — we are immersed within them, unmistakably reunited with the primordial choreographies of life’s grand cycle.

In God’s wildness lies the hope of the world.
John Muir

The jungle’s grandeur humbles and opens my being to that deeper reality — I am but one infinitesimal fiber woven inextricably into this unfathomably complex and majestic fabric of life.

the parrots are of the loudest birds species around, proudly displaying rich colorful plumage. All photos by author.

If you linger long enough in these primordial cathedrals, the sense of human separateness dissolves away to be replaced by an oceanic feeling of unity with all living things.
Diane Foley

This living masterpiece surrounds us at all moments — the canopies alive with avian symphonies and sinuous arboreal snakes camouflaged like animated vines. Rowdy troops of spider monkeys grant charismatic audiences, making direct eye contact as if allowing momentary entrance into their universe before cheekily hurling branches. Squirrel monkeys oscillate between curiosity and hard-wired wariness about us as newly resident jungle tenants, while the capuchin clans closely inspect sugarcane we’ve harvested.

all four species of monkeys that inhabit Costa Rica can be seen in the jungle we proudly call our home. All photos by author.

The wildest tales couldn’t capture a half of the magic and majesty I’ve witnessed in this boundless jungle life
Rudyard Kipling

Time liquefies into a languid flow state, reminding me to inhabit the present, just as the primordial giants surrounding me have since long before human consciousness emerged. The jungle is the temple, and the howler monkeys are its choir. The towering ceiba, guanacaste, ajo and higueron — basilicas hosting an eternal mass. Under their ancient canopies, I experience true sanity — an abiding attuning to the rhythms of nature’s ageless cycles.

the dragons and other improbable creates coexist in harmony with their eternal home. All photos by author.

In wildness is the preservation of the world.
Henry David Thoreau

The jungle whispers an eternal reminder that humanity needn’t be saved from nature’s sacred grandeur, but from our self-inflicted isolation and hubris.

the variety of birds here is simply stunning. All photos by author.

Humanity doesn’t need to be saved from nature; it needs to be saved from itself.
Edward Abbey

hummingbirds offer one of the most impressive displays of iridescence. All photos by author.

I offer this love letter as an open invitation — come, listen to the emerald cathedral’s whispers with me. Feel the sting of a mosquito bite, witness the sunrises that ignite these skies in fire. Feel the pulse of the jungle, and perhaps, just perhaps, you’ll discover a little piece of your own wild heart beating in rhythm with the ancient song of the Earth.

Because the jungle’s paradox lies not only in the coexisting beauty and brutality, but in our choice of how to respond. Will we remain disconnected spectators, or will we rejoin the grand chorus — raising our voices in fierce reverence towards this verdant masterpiece? Ensuring its eternal hymns will echo through the ages as we humans were always meant to hear them — with the pristine ears of our soul.

My wild home awaits your presence.

I humbly cherish the hope that this piece and my photography not only emphasize the beauty of this world, but also will contribute to the efforts of conservation and preservation of this majestic but fragile ecosystem.

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Katja Hollaar

Wildlife photographer from The Netherlands moved to Costa Rica and sharing experiences and inspiration about sustainable living off the grid