Fashion influenced by World War? Is that even possible?!
Yes, that’s exactly what came to my mind when I was asked to research about the influence of the world wars(1 and 2)on Fashion for a class presentation. And well, History and that too the world war 1 and 2, something from which I have always kept a safe distance from in school days was back to haunt me!
But Fashion was what kept me a bit intrigued.
Hence began the search!
World War 1 and Fashion : 1914–1920
Before the war, Paris led the world of fashion. But due to the lack of communication between the US and Europe, New York emerged as a fashion leader with new designs based on a combination of femininity and practicality.
Things that happened during war time:
a. During WWI, as men went off to fight, women took on jobs formerly filled by men. Women and girls who previously worked as domestic servants took jobs in factories, performed administrative work, worked as drivers, nurses, and on farms.
b. A new image of freedom and self respect led women away from traditional gender roles. They drove cars and demanded the right to vote.
c. Many of the occupations demanded the wearing of uniforms, including trousers. A military look crept into fashion designs as well, bringing military-style tunic jackets, belts, and epaulets.
d. During World War I, people took to a plainer lifestyle. Women wore less jewellery, and the lavish clothing of the Edwardian period fell by the wayside.
e. As women dressed for new roles, gender-dictated dress codes relaxed. Skirts became shorter, as they often do during wartime, and colours became sober and muted.
f. The spring of 1914 brought a new fashion trend called the “war crinoline” which featured a bell-shaped skirt and a wide overskirt. The season also featured sloped shoulders and wide collars, but the use of so much fabric was soon viewed as wasteful during wartime and critics called for a more conservative use of cloth.
g. In 1915, hemlines rose to mid-calf and traditionalists complained of immodesty.
h. By 1918, skirts grew narrow again and hemlines fell to below the calf.
i. 1919 saw longer dresses with clean lines and a natural waist.
j. During World War I, fashion shows were organised to help raise funds for the war effort. In 1914, Edna Chase, the editor of Vogue, put on a fashion show to display the work of New York designers.
k. During the Great War, higher hemlines exposed a gap between the tip of the boot and a skirt hem. The look distracted from the overall appearance of an outfit, so the high button boots of the past were abandoned, and women wore shoes with heels that featured a slight curve (as you can see below:)
l. The Great War introduced a new coat style that became a classic for the rest of the century and beyond: the trench coat.
World War 2 and Fashion:
World War II is a fascinating era in fashion, society, and politics. The fashion of the era was truly representative of the events happening in the world in the most visible manner. This era made indelible marks on future designers and the science of fashion as the world knows it. Fashion and costume design were influenced and changed due to the many limitations presented and imposed by WWII.
Things that happened during War time:
a. The rationing of materials used in garment production during World War II introduced a new simplicity in women’s clothing. Hemlines rose and decorative elements disappeared creating the emergence of a classic style.
b. In order to supply the war effort, fabric was rationed. Nylon and wool were both needed by the military and Japanese silk was banned in the USA after the attack on Pearl Harbour. Rayon, the new synthetic fabric developed in the 1930s became the material most often used for the creation of ladies’ clothing during the War.
c. Many women owned Utility Jumpsuits which one could put on quickly when the sirens blew. The jumpsuit, a new innovation, was warm and comfortable and featured pockets for papers and valuables.
d. As wool was used for soldiers’ blankets, fabric designers came up with wool blends made of recycled wool and rayon. Rayon was the fabric of choice. It was versatile; did not shrink or crease, and could be produced in either light or heavy weights.
e. Stockings formerly made of silk were made out of nylon but when the military began to use nylon, many women used tan make up on their legs and drew a line up the back to simulate seams. Bobby socks became popular among the younger set.
f. Corsages made of fresh flowers like orchids and gardinias were worn to snazz up a plain black dress. Many women also owned corsages made of artificial flowers or gathered netting.
g. Pants became a staple of women who worked in factories and soon gained widespread acceptance for casual wear and for work at home in the garden. The actress Katherine Hepburn helped make trousers a popular garment for women as she appeared in several movies wearing elegant, wide legged trousers.
h. In February of 1947, Christian Dior introduced his New Look, a style that shocked and outrages some and thrilled others. Hemlines were long in skirts and dresses with tons of fabric. Wide hats and tight nipped in waistlines gave women an almost antebellum look. The new female silhouette gave women an hour glass figure and a new, feminine extravagance so long denied.
After the War
The end of World War II did not immediately change the fashion industry. Clothing rations and fabric restrictions endured some time after as the economy changed slowly from a war economy toward peace.
Tropical prints became popular and featured exotic florals such as palm fronds and hibiscus blooms.
The colours and styles of Mexico and Latin America brought new colours like terra-cotta and turquoise to women who craved brightness and fun. Peasant blouses and skirts offered a soft, cool femininity for warm weather inspired by the popular artist Frida Kahlo.
