Sedona: The Astrology of Trump
We travelled through Coconino National Forest to a town called Sedona.
Built as a watering hole for cowboys, it was put on the map by Hollywood (nice landscapes, not too far from Los Angeles: perfect for shooting westerns). But real fame only came to Sedona in 1987.
Five thousand people came to town for a synchronized global meditation event called The Harmonic Conversion. People from all over America’s southwest stood in front of Bell Rock, just outside Sedona, and waited for an UFO to emerge from it.
The spaceship failed to materialise. But their trips were not wasted. A local new age guru was officiating at a local wedding that morning. Thousands took part.
They came back to their hometowns and enthused about the beauty of Sedona and the power of its energy vortices.
40 years on, the place is New Age central. Spiritualism has become so commercialised it’s now like a non-stop Christmas at a hippy shopping mall.
A group of young people in their early twenties sat around a fountain in Sedona’s main street, which has the catchy name of N. State Route 89a. Their bare feet were dirty. Their clothes were baggy, their ears — pierced, their tattoos — fading.
One of the group, Julia (she asked me not to use her real name), told me they had all travelled in from Washington, DC. They were journeying across America.
“We had a car when we first set off, — she explained. — But we decided to sell it because it was limiting our freedom. So now we walk and hitch hike”.
Julia’s friends were plucking guitar strings nearby. On the pavement next to them was a hat with a few quarters in it. The young people didn’t look like they were busking to make money.
They were there, they had a guitar and a hat; they knew some tunes. What else were they supposed to do?
In a parade of shops next to their busking spot, “experts” were offering to photograph your aura for $35. On sale were, predominantly, crystals, wooden statuettes of big-eyed aliens, and long hemp dresses. One store was offering “music to soothe your elderly canine companion”.
Psychics and seers charged $50 for a basic reading.
The supernatural is Sedona’s main industry. The town caters to large groups of tourists who arrive, like we did, over gorgeous wooded mountains, then take a jeep tour to the desert, to look at the imposing red rocks; and then, to pass the time before their steak dinner, have a quick look at their auras.
I got talking to a man called Alex. He is an astrologist.
He moved to Sedona from California about six years ago. He told me he’d set up a business in town, catering to A-list celebrities — a lot of them have summer homes in Sedona.
- What do you make of Trump? — Alex asked me.
Before I could reply, he explained that Trump’s future was sealed; and that it was not a happy one.
To him, it was obvious.
An eclipse crosses a galactic line at some point in August. Which, to Alex, was a sign that Trump would either get impeached or, more likely, change his policies altogether and become, essentially, a democrat with a republican facade.
- You’ve just seen the first sign of this happening, — Alex explained. — His move on Syria. There’s a lot more of this to come.
We spoke just after American ships fired 59 Tomahawk missiles against the Syrian troops following an alleged chemical attack in Khan Sheikhun. Up to that point, Trump had been clear: he did not want to get involved in the Middle East, — he wanted to put America first.
Listening in on our conversation was a big statue of a green, slit-eyed alien
- This isn’t mine, — Alex said. — This belongs to Melinda. She runs a little company here which provides UFO tours. Takes people out to the desert and tells them how she was abducted by aliens in 1992. Some people say they see UFOs on her tours; others say they don’t, — I can’t judge, I haven’t been. But I’ve got her brochure if you’re interested.
Alex then considered me, like a collector would a rare stamp.
- What do you do? — he asked.
- I work for the BBC.
- Ah. I could sense a lot of creative energy coming from you. Let me see something. Hm… Interesting. You must be really good with words. And with pictures.
The camera around my neck was a bit of a giveaway, of course.
“I could sense a lot of creative energy coming from you”.
- You’re on a trip. A big trip, — he continued. — You’ve been away from home for at least a week. Maybe more. This trip will change you; it will open up new ways of seeing the world for you. You will return a richer man, spiritually.
Me, the tourist with a combined Russian/British accent, observed in awe. Alex’s powers really ran quite deep.
But he soon got bored of me and said his goodbyes, claiming he had an important appointment with a big client.
So I moved on to a new age art gallery up the road. Full of abstract paintings in green and yellow, it shared offices with a few other shops and offices for the supernaturally inclined.
The manager, Cynthia, immediately asked me if I had enjoyed my chat with Alex.
- He’s interesting, — she said. — But… you know… there are a lot of people who’ve come here to make easy money. A lot of them know little about the spirituality of this place. I’m not saying anything about Alex, — far from it, he’s a real nice guy, — but you’ve got to be careful. You can have yoga teachers charging $1000 a day here. Why? I can recommend you somebody who’s really quite good, but who only charges $100 a day.
“You can have yoga teachers charging $1000 a day here”.
I bowed out.
I saw out the day at a hilltop overlooking Sedona. I was, apparently, right in the middle of a very active spiritual vortex.
Sharing a gorgeous sunset with me were more than a few photographers, some selfie-stick wielding couples, and a few people who sat motionless in lotus position and hardly stirred as the commotion around them went on.
They looked down on Sedona, no doubt connecting with the rich spiritual and entrepreneurial energy of the town.
The following morning, I returned for sunrise. The scene was even more breath-taking. Hot-air balloons drifted in from across the mountains.
And as I looked down at Sedona, I was thinking that I really liked this new age theme park. I could even see myself living here and doing readings and aura photography.
Maybe in my next life, when I return as an astrologist.
Practical Advice: Sedona
Food
We followed the advice of the Guardian and had dinner at Silver Saddle Room. Bison burgers and rattlesnake sausages make for an interesting meal. Rattlesnake meat is soft, delicate and a little gamey. I asked our waitress if the snakes were farmed, — no, they are not, they are all hunted in the wild. The price for two was $45.55.
Walks
North of Sedona is a large area of woodland, hills and mountain streams. Picnic places are well-equipped, with barbecues and litter bins. This is a walker’s dream. Navigation can be a little tricky: we lost our path and had to cross the same little stream twice, jumping from boulder to boulder.
Driving
Driving in town is a nightmare. There is, basically, one long main street, and this is it. Locals in high-visibility vests try to direct tourist traffic. On the day we visited, they were not coping.
Shops
To appreciate Sedona, you have to either accept the New Age vibe, or be post-modernist about it. Whichever route you select, you’ll have plenty of souvenirs to choose from. I don’t usually buy souvenirs, but I was really tempted by a horribly kitsch crystal alien.
Next Stop, — Las Vegas, and the shop selling dead man’s junk
Or go back to the preface and the front page.
