What can I tell you about Hong Kong?
- Get off Hong Kong island. There is SO MUCH MORE to Hong Kong than hanging out with ex-pats at boozy brunches. You will kick yourself if you don’t make the effort to venture outside of Lan Kwai Fong or Central.
- It is the perfect place to ramble in — there is so much life in the back alleys, the hidden laneways and the forgotten villages.
- The Concrete Jungle will take your breath away — the juxtaposition between old and new & between forest and skyscrapers is incredible. Embrace the outdoors.
I spent six months living in Hong Kong in 2015. Truthfully, it was a tough period for me personally, and I struggled with adjusting to a new city that seemed to serve its two main communities (expats and locals) very differently. I grew to love it, and have been back several times since. There is a certain magic to Hong Kong that is hard to describe in words. Anyone can tell you where to go out and party, so instead I have focused on the “other side” of the Hong Kong experience.
I “found” yoga in Hong Kong and always recommend Yoga BamBam in Pound Lane. If you make your way to Pound Lane via Hollywood Road, you can pop into Man Mo Temple on the way, and browse in the cute antique shops. There is (hands down) the best veggie cafe called MANA! right beside Yoga BamBam. MANA! is not just a restaurant, it is a way of life. The owner has put so much soul into this business, and you will leave it feeling inspired (not to mention satisfied). It is super quiet at off peak times. Top tip — just inside the door are “20 books that will change your life”. I have read 3–4 of them, and I can vouch that they are brilliant suggestions. So take note when you go :)
Just down from Pound Lane is Po Hing Fong — I stayed in an Air BNB here and it is a super cute street. Check out the view from the studio — it was amazing to wake up to!
If you are a coffee snob like me check out The Cupping Room (there are 3 of them in HK now) — they do incredible coffee and great western brekkie/brunch options. A welcome alternative to Starbucks or Pacific Coffee. Another great independent coffee shop is Happy Alley Coffee Bar in Happy Valley — a gorgeous find and a new favourite.
I find it hard to condense everything I love to do in HK into bullet points but here we go:
- If you only have a couple of hours to spend in HK you must see the city from the top. You will feel as though you are on top of the world. My favourite hike starts up at The Peak and takes about 1.5–2 hours. You start from Harlech Road, and follow the Morning Trail until you come to a small open green area. Take the very furthest path on the left — it isn’t signposted so easy to miss — and follow this upwards until you can’t go any further. Make sure you are wearing covered shoes (for any creepy crawlies or snakes), apply a lot of sun-cream and take water with you. Once you have taken in the amazing views, you head back down to the Morning Trail and complete the circle, finishing back at The Peak.
- Regardless of your faith or religion, a trip to Big Buddha and its associated Po Lin Monastery is a must. Buy your ticket online to avoid queues. If you are brave, you can opt for one of the glass bottom cable cars, or you can hike up. After paying your respects to Buddha, take a bus to Tai O. Tai O is a fishing village with houses, markets and shops built on stilts. Its inlet is home to the almost extinct pink dolphins. Enjoy a ramble around the markets and a snack in one of the many local restaurants.
- Big Wave Bay (just north of the more popular Shek-O; also a good choice) is my favorite beach on Hong Kong Island. It has a cute pizza shack on the beach, and is usually pretty quiet. If you are after a different “beachy” experience, Lamma Island is a super chill, laid back place that is the polar opposite to “Central”. It is accessible via ferry, and a pleasure to walk around. There is a nuclear power station here which wrecks the vibe a bit, but it’s still worth taking the trip.
- Take the Star Ferry over to TST/Kowloon (directly opposite Hong Kong Island) — a super cheap, and beautiful way to travel across the harbour. Here you will find the Hong Kong Museum and if you have the time, take the afternoon to get lost in the local neighbourhoods.
- Back on Hong Kong Island, the Old Wan Chai walk allows you to see a different side to this area (parts of which are the Red Light district). The population of Wan Chai is mostly Hong Kongese/Chinese with less westerners than neighbouring Central. I did this at night, purely to avoid the heat, but it also added to the atmosphere (there is something I love about exploring a city at nighttime or early in the morning when few people are about).
Real estate is very expensive in HK, which unfortunately means that restaurants and bars open and close constantly. My top places to eat (that are still alive) are ChaChaWan, MANA! and Maison Libanaise. If you love burgers, The Butchers Club is a top recommendation. If you are looking for somewhere fun to go with friends, Ho Lee Fook serves traditional (well, western friendly traditional) food and is very buzzy. If you are looking to impress, Bibo is super cool but will set you back price wise. For a more authentic experience, you can head to one of the many local restaurants on the side streets and grab a cheap and cheerful dinner — they serve all types of meats (and animals) in Hong Kong so if you are in anyway queasy then best to avoid, but worth having a look anyway. An alternative is Chongqing Szechuan Restaurant, authentic and delicious!
For drinks, the view from CE LA VI cannot be beaten by anywhere … however my favorite bar is the very un-fancy “Soho Corner” — it is simply the best place for people watching. I love to pull up a chair outside and have the chats.
This is my Hong Kong :)
