What can I tell you about Melbourne?

Aislinn Mahon
Aug 26, 2017 · 7 min read
  1. The people are ACHINGLY cool.
  2. You will never taste coffee like this.
  3. Is this really Australia? It is cold.

I am aware of how far away from home I am, yet I feel like I am in a parallel universe that is a cross between Magazine St (New Orleans) and Rathmines (Dublin). I am not sure if this is good (the world is small) or bad (have we just become clones of each other?). I have settled on good, my decision being swayed by the incredible food, street art and COFFEE.

A lot of people questioned why I was visiting Melbourne during their winter time … and honestly in a naive Irish way I just responded with “ah, it will be grand”. It was more than grand, it was wonderful! Plus, now I have a reason to go back next year, in summer time :)

Melbourne isn’t a very “touristy” city but it is one of the most liveable I have ever visited. This was even more evident coming from Hong Kong, one of the most transient places I have ever been. In Hong Kong, the first question everyone asks each other is “How long have you lived here?” swiftly followed by “When will you leave?”. In Melbourne, I felt like a local from day one. I had my routine down to a T — yoga, brunch, cafe, friends … walking miles and miles to find my next coffee. I would pack my bag at the start of the day and set off on my adventure.

I had one sight seeing day and ticked off Hosier Lane (renowned for its street art, crammed with tourists but worth it), the NGV and Foundation Square.

Hosier Lane and the exterior of Feast of Merit

I was staying in South Yarra, and followed the Yarra River into the city — a gorgeous walk and one that allows you to take in the Botanical Gardens and the Shrine of Remembrance along the way. The NGV had an amazing exhibition about Australia in the 1930’s (Brave New World) and it is an honest depiction of society at a turbulent time in history. This is a country that has long struggled to deal with a multicultural population. Posters from the era illustrate lean, white, muscular bodies as the desired norm. Obviously you could argue that little has changed since then. Another exhibition tackled society in the 1990’s, with angry references to the AIDs epidemic, the rise of feminism and homophobia. Art was used to express the anger of the people. It was a fascinating history lesson for me, and one that gave me a deeper understanding for how far Australia has come — but also how behind it still is. Australia is preparing for a same sex marriage “postal survey” over the coming months and it is difficult to ignore the fact that homophobia is still rife in this country.

As an eager sea swimmer, I couldn’t wait to get into the crisp, salty water. We rented a car and drove to Torquay along the Great Ocean Road for a surf lesson. Torquay is a gorgeous little town, and a treat to visit off season. The sea was almost deserted and it felt like we had it to ourselves. There is something about sea water that gives you a serious hunger in your belly, and we devoured a delicious brunch afterwards at the Pond Cafe. If you are yet to be convinced of the power of jumping into the sea, read “I Found My Tribe” and then chat to me afterwards :)

My cousin Shauna and I - too eager to ever be surf dudes

I was eager to get back to the sea air, and we spent another morning back in the city exploring St Kilda. It reminded me of a less tacky, smaller version of Brighton and it was a joy to walk along the pier and search in vain for the infamous penguins (they only come in at night). As we watched the beautiful rainbow along the horizon, a man in his seventies strolled past us into the freezing sea in teeny speedos and I felt an urge to join him (sense kicked in shortly afterwards).

Having a moment in St Kilda

Melbourne is renowned for its music scene, and it just so happened that Two Door Cinema Club were in town the same week. Isn’t there something so cool about going to see an Irish band when you are on the other side of the world?! I was filled with a sense of pride listening to the crowds singing along, and Gameshow instantly became my Melbourne soundtrack.

I walked for miles around Melbourne and crowned Fitzroy my favourite neighbourhood. As the city’s first suburb, it is known for its bohemian vibe and signs of gentrification are dotted everywhere. Every second restaurant is either vegan or veggie and I instantly felt at home rambling around. It is the perfect neighbourhood for people watching, so grab a coffee on Brunswick St, sit outside on a terrace, and chill.

Melbourne is known as the hipster capital of Australia, and where there are hipsters, there is yoga. Namaste friends. Two studios I visited that were far from an Indian ashram were Humming Puppy and Yoga 213. Humming Puppy’s studio pulsates with the humming of two different frequencies; the frequency of the earth and the frequency of athletes at peak performance. Ominous at first, then incredibly powerful. I walked out on a different planet. Yoga 213 is a self proclaimed “yoga and hip hop” studio. A portrait of Biggie meets you as you walk up the stairs. The teachers are great, super friendly and the design of the studio makes it worth the visit alone.

Yoga 213 — Design HEAVEN

“Melbs” is a culinary delight. Still, I have limited my yoga/brunch/dinner/drinks recommendations to two a piece, otherwise this post would be ten pages long!

BRUNCH:

Have I mentioned the food is good in Melbourne?
  • Feast of Merit — if I could choose one place to transport back to Dublin, this would be it. Yummmmmy food and coffee, and a big communal table that is laptop/book friendly. I sat here for ages, not wanting to leave. Super friendly staff too :) Feast of Merit is run by YGAP. All proceeds are “channelled into YGAP’s work alleviating poverty in some of the world’s toughest communities in Africa, Asia and Australia”.
  • Serotonin Eatery — I am really interested in biohacking, and creating happy hormones naturally, so when I was told about a place whose menu and design was orchestrated to produce serotonin I was intrigued. I’m not sure if I experienced any kind of serotonin overload (or whether my happiness was down to my excellent company) but I would definitely go back to this self-proclaimed “Happiness Centre”.

DINNER:

  • Vegie Bar — In a city that is overrun with veggie options, it was hard to pick just two. I always judge the quality of a veggie place by whether a carnivore will be left impressed. The carnivore in question was very impressed and claimed “sure you would hardly even notice there is no meat”. Result.
  • Fina’s Vegetarian Cafe — There’s more to Melbs than smashed avo, and Fitzroy has a whole host of incredible Asian restaurants. Fina’s is an incredible Vietnamese eatery where you can just rock up and enjoy a delicious, flavoursome meal that is incredibly good value. So tasty, and family run.

DRINKS:

  • Naked for Satan — Naked for Satan has a cool interior spread over a couple of floors and a beautiful rooftop area where you can enjoy great views over Fitzroy and the bright lights of Melbourne city.
  • The Temperance Hotel — It rained for a solid 10 hours and we sought solace in the Temperance for a Sunday afternoon/evening session. Super cosy with great live music. You won’t want to leave!

I left Melbourne with a tinge of sadness, wishing it wasn’t so far away. Its inhabitants are proud to call it home and it’s easy to see why. An old friend used the word “vibey” to describe Fitzroy, and I am stealing it from him to describe Melbourne in one word. The definition of vibe is “a distinctive emotional quality or atmosphere that is sensed or experienced by someone”. This wonderful city has a soul, and a deep history and I can’t wait to come back.

See you next summer Melbs :)

A special thank you to my wonderful hosts for the week who I laughed with non-stop. You are the best Shauny and Seanie :)

Eternally grateful to have such wonderful family and friends :)

)

Aislinn Mahon

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Discovering the world, one step at a time.

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